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Hi all... so i couldn't see this question/answer in any searches on here... my scenario 600mm plastic inspection chamber (IC) with plastic risers vs brick built manhole both with metal lids. (650mm deep) I've had contradicting advice that plastic IC's break when vehicles are driven over them and brick manholes are the the best way to go. The position of drain will be in the front driveway (hardscaped) for a residential dwelling which is a self build. There is an option to place the new drain further down the existing foul line which will be positioned in proposed soft landscape (non parking area) but that means due to the gravity fall existing drain, i will have to excavated down to a possible 1.1m deep. Look forward to hearing of your experiences and thoughts on longevity and cost solution for this scenario. Andee

Hi all, I have recently moved into a new property and am struggling to figure out what to do with my drainage system and have recieved a lot of conflicting information from various people. This photo attached shows the current situation: For context, I live in a basement flat with 1 other flat living above me. The large black pipe at the front of the picture is their soil pipe. My washing machine and kitchen sink go into the gully(?) and relevant pipe however I have my own drain system at the front of the house for all other stuff. As you can see the pipe connects to next door, which is a story in itself in that apparently whilst building an extention, the contractors jumped over the fence and connected the drains on our now property to theirs (when they were previously not). This was unauthorised and without building control approval etc. They then didn't fix it. The council at the time, after this happened, said the piping could no longer be buried as next door would have insufficient fall and the drainage would be poor. I have contacted a few people to try and fix this as obviously it looks not visually appealing, and as far as I am aware may be against building regs too. Some have told me to try and bury the pipe again involving expensive damp proofing etc, others have told me to concrete over the top, others have told me to deck over it, and others have told me to rearrange piping so not as obtrusive. I'd really appreciate any advice, particularly around the best ways to arrange the piping or if anyone knows anything regarding the regs about waste pipes being unprotected above ground etc. Cheers

We are busy with Mum and Dad's new wetroom extension and the builders are getting the roof on so we planning the internal fit out. The floor is concrete, insulation then a screed which the builder assures me will have the correct falls for me to tile. No need for a former or shower tray. and he is quite a perfectionist so I am sure it will be fine. (He took down the rafters and re-fit them as one side was 1cm out from the other!) anyway - we are looking to fit a square drain such as this one - the OH, who will be fittng it, was asking about the need for a U-bend? There isnt going to be room for one. Is that okay? the concrete has been laid for the floor with a largish brown pipe in place for the waste and Fred, who did the foundations, said the drain fits into the insulation layer and the screed is laid around it. does that all sound correct? Here is the build a couple of weeks ago. the corner pipe nearest the camera is the shower drain location.

We have decided its time to update our en-suite and change the quadrant shower for one across the whole of the back wall. when we did the quadrant, you can see that we stood the shower tray on thick ply, sitting on wooden blocks. this was to give sufficient room for the drain, which runs left under the vanity units and into the large pipe which runs down the corner of the bedroom, the other side of the left hand wall. We would like to have the new shower tray on or nearer the floor so there isnt a step. The floor joists run at 90 degrees to to direction the waste would need to go meaning drilling each one with min 32mm hole for the waste, until it gets to the main soil downpipe, having dropped it accordingly. This will also mean having half the floor up. As far as regs go the joists are deep enough (min 0.25 of joist depth) but we would need to come out to 0.25 to 0.4 of the span too which would be awkward Are there any techniques or methods these days which might be easier? this shows the shower drainpipe running into the soil pipe. the large grey one is the soil pipe from the loo. The white drain pipe running from under the shower tray. The plasterboard and tiles removed. they were ordinary plasterboards but we shall do it with proper aquaboards this time. (any recommendations for those too would be appreciated)? You may notice that the vanilty units also sit on 10cm blocks of wood - we like to have a higher than usual sink; is much nicer than the usual height. So - any good ideas that we can try?? thanks, in anticipation.?

Just going over my new sewer application form. quite straightforward But has anyone seen the section about the specs of an "adopted lateral" apparently it has to be ..... "capable of demonstrating a jetting resistance of 4000 psi (280 bar) without damage when tested in accordance with Section 6.10 of WIS 4-35-01" hmm....I am hazarding a guess that normal 100mm sewage pipe will not suffice I have tried to search Google ..but cannot find any at all

Hi, We're planning to build a ground floor extension to our 1960/70s terraced house, which is semi-detached at the end of the row.We have a manhole cover to the side of where we plan to build the extension and although we don't plan to build over it, we were wondering if anyone could give advice on whether the sewer pipe is public or only serves our house. Photos below. If anyone could advise the best strategy for dealing with sewers/drainage, so as not to risk any issues when creating the foundations of the new extension it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, JM. 1. This is the man cover removed. To the top left is the end of our house, the extension would continue along this line of brickwork. 2.Close up of sewer pipes. 3.Sketch showing layout of sewer and house.

Good Afternoon All Well its time to finalise my drawing and sewage and services layout. As some of you know (due to location) ...I am actually bringing ALL my connections past our parents house (on the edge of their land) In return for letting us, we are connecting them to the main sewer with our build half the houses here are still "on the pits" ..including theirs Now I have tried to measure everything in 10cm / 100mm blocks and got the drawing below. Obviously this is the "busiest" part as this is between our parents and next door and it is where they will connect to our sewage via a 450mm manhole (which is that box in the middle Looking at the below and bearing in mind that T=Telecom. E=Electric G=Gas and W=Water and of course WW = Waste water (sewage) Will i be safe using this as a cross section for the Building regs ?

Hi All Quick question: I've got two condensation drains to connect up from my heat battery and MHRV. Whats the best way to connect to the soil stack? Annoyingly the heat battery is a 15mm pipe outlet (from a 1/2" BSP connection) and the MVHR is 21.5mm overflow type plastic pipe. Even more annoyingly the heat battery has no form of trap. I think I'm going to have to create some form of homebrew connection. Perhaps using one of these to create the sealed outlet? https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/hotun-hiflo-shield-white-black-RATech-HW100C-dry-trap-tundish?language=en&currency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI49O69a7F1QIViIePCh0cRwYhEAQYBCABEgIN3fD_BwE

I think I've sorted a drainage plan but before I run it past the BCO, could I have any thoughts on it. The blue dots are all the points where they rise through the floors and the yellow lines are the pipe runs. There are already 2 manholes (large red dots) where the pipes are already run and connected into the mains sewage. I have 2 inspection chambers (yellow dots) which then run onto the 2 manholes. I could run IC1 to either manhole (pipe 1 or 2), would it make a difference?