Post and beam

Is it the liquid quick pour stuff or dry mix sand & cement though?

Is there a practical or recommended maximum depth of the quick pour type liquid screed used to bury UFH pipes please? I have always imagined that we would use 50mm when we get to that stage. For no other reason than this is the most often discussed depth that people seem to use. For example on Forums such as this. Why re invent the wheel. But my actual construction drawings from the TF company show 75mm cement and sand 'dry' mix. To maintain levels, thresholds etc can i specify 75mm wet pour screed, does it matter which, or is there some reason for the difference that i am ignorant of? Keith

Having now read the thing i also note that the author decides to discount low side values that are too far from the average becuase they must be unreliable. I wonder on what basis he made that call.

I note that the report dates from 2011. I wonder if its still accurate enough to be relevant

And if i look in the full SAP report that i have just re discovered i get this....

Here Dude

Exactly that question. Difficult to decipher how 4.36 and 219% relate to each other.

?

It didn't say anything. It does not mention what make or model of heat pump either. It was created by my TF company and before i go back and ask them where the 219% figure comes from i was hoping to have a little more knowledge. I want to run the UFH flow at 35 degrees maximum. I have emailed Vaillant tech support to see if they can point me at some credible facts and figures. If, in fact, the 219% refers to COP/SCOP then i know Vaillants own site is up over 4.

I think i have seen on here somewhere or possibly been directed to a site that lists the % efficiency ratings as they relate to the Building Regs Part L and the SAP assessment process. My as designed sap report gives a % of 219% at Para 4 space heating. So, does this percentage directly relate to the COP/SCOP? My intended ASHP will be a Vaillant aroTHERM 7kw

I have been thinking about just this issue recently. Amazing what you find on this forum. My proposed fireplace is huge, probably 2 square metres so the heat loss could also be huge i think. I have been thinking concrete backer boards at the low side with PIR above. Surely the heat wont be enough for it to be an issue then, for the PIR. This has just become a can of worms.

I sort of hoped that asking on here would achieve the desired result. I know from my current water bills that our domestic use is well below average. But i have no idea how to demonstrate(prove) this with regard to our intended build.

Below, in bold is the last condition i need to discharge. I submitted the SAP assessment document, the Buiding Regs Part L report and the construction notes from the TF supplier. Is there anyone here that has recently been successful with regard to this sustainability condition that can comment on what level of detail they submitted. Thanks in advance The Statement should demonstrate how the development responds to sustainable construction, energy and water efficiency: • how the design, materials, construction and operation of the development would minimise overheating in summer and reduce the need for heating in the winter and cooling in summer; • how carbon dioxide emissions will be minimised across the development site; • how the development will minimise the use of mains Policies CC1, CC2, CC3, WAT4 East Herts District Plan 2018 19 East Herts District Council Validation Checklist (October 2021) Requirement When required? What is required Policy Driver water The statement should the explain, in more detail, the answers to the sustainability checklist criteria relating to water efficiency, energy and carbon reduction and climate change adaptation.

But this is surely the crucial sentence.

All over it

We wont have an internal garage and its a 2 storey house so on this basis i dont need any fire doors. I am trying to budget for internal doors so this makes a difference. Need 14 in total. Thanks guys

With the what now? Apologies, i dont understand.

For our new build i am trying to understand which doors if any are required to be fire rated.

My TF company have had Section drawings provided that show face bricks below the DPM. Is this necessary and/or cost efficient? Can the skin be Dense block below DPM?

Do i need a sparky to install and more importantly, sign off, an installation of an extractor fan into the bathroom light switch?

https://www.hisltd.co.uk/ProductDetail/7mm-to-8mm-Spindle-Sleeve-Adaptor/1dca41fbd7724af992b42923981b13e8 Try this

I've posted a number of times on exactly this topic. TF supplier recommends Rationel and to be honest the Alu clad versions look perfectly good. But the options of handles ( one) is holding them back. The wife does not like them so thats the end of that. It looks like we might be going with Timberwindows.com With regard to changing the furniture. The 'peg' that Rationel use is a different size to everyone else if i remember correctly. They use 8mm and the industry norm is 7mm. Good news is that there is a company that make a sleeve/shim to enable the use of other furniture. Imagine a .5mm thick square section tube. Sorry i know that sounds daft but i hope you get the idea. Looking for it right now, will post link if i find it. Believe they are near southend on sea

We would like to provide power into our proposed Kitchen island. For a 2 gang 13A outlet and also a Cooker feed at a higher current rating. Is it acceptable to run the cable under the screed in with the UFH pipework? Thanks in advance as always keith

You may already know this but they have a great 5 house permanent show centre in St Neots. Not too far down the A1 from you

The only little bit i can ofer anything on is with regard to Kingspan. We have permission for one of their traditional cottage style houses via their Potton homes division. They will definately do 'Weathertight only' if you want. This is what we are doing. They will design as large or small a project as you want and then produce everything required to get it through all of the Stages necessary.