Post and beam

With a keel and a mast?

My potential house builder specified Rega Vent. I made a point of looking inside the case of one at one of the shows last year. They look truly awful. An uninsulated tin box with a load of untidy wires that look like they are controlled by an Arduino. Nothing wrong with arduino but not on something that costs as much to install as one of these. Not passive house certified either. Just my opinion, i did not buy one.

I dont know what you do for a living but presumably while you are hand building these SIP's panels you are not earning. The speed of a SIP's ( ready made) build has cost benefits that will affect different situations to a more or less degree. I am biased because i am planning a Potton SIP's build. I wonder what kind of figures you expect to save by this DIY approach.

Likely to all look the same as well

The reason i asked is because one of the founding principals of the formation of the town was to provide plots for self builders. You may of course already know this, apologies if you do. There are loads, we used to go POTTON spotting back in the day.

I know its not everybodies cup of tea but have you considered Milton Keynes.

Thanks. I thought there might have been an alternative to Loopcad in the offing

Apologies for jumping into this thread but do they have their own software or do you mean they offer a free design service ? Thanks in advance keith

I read the headline and thought you had squatters, was about to tell you to charge them rent.

Was that from Nu Heat by any chance? My very first 'quote' 18 months ago was from them. Specified by the TF builder. And again mine was very similar numbers. Apart from the price they proposed 14 heating Zones, one for every room in the house. Even as a Noob i thought this was total nonsense.

As per the OP, i have had a very similar estimate just this week. For a Vaillant 7kW. Very generic but almost identical numbers.

Update: Success. I have today been sent a full discharge and satisfaction of the 3 that were causing me such a headache. So for anyone else going through similar pain. I took a drawing from our planning consultants original application submission, removed their logo, jiggled it slightly in Windows Paint, added some scribble about SUD's compliance for the hard landscaping and submitted as my own. Bingo. It was initially a concern that the ASHP was deemed by planning to not have been known to them and that i had to demonstrate that it complied with all their requirements. This is after i pointed out that the initial full planning application clearly showed a box saying ASHP as located outside of the Kitchen on the south side of the house. All good now though. 5. Condition 5 (Levels) attached to 3/22/2639/FUL can be discharged in full. Drawing nos. 22-036-101-LEVELS REV B and 22-036-101-SS REV B highlighting the proposed ground levels and ridge heights are considered to be acceptable. 6. Condition 6 (Climate Change) attached to 3/22/2639/FUL can be discharged in full. The submitted documents outline the dwellings compliance with building regulations, and methods of providing an adaptable dwelling. It is noted the inclusion of an air source heat pump for heating purposes, which complies with Schedule 2, Part 14, Class G of The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, as confirmed by the applicant. 8. Condition 8 (Landscaping) attached to 3/22/2639/FUL can be discharged in full. The hard and soft landscaping proposal is considered to be acceptable. There is not considered to be any unacceptable arboricultural impact. The landscape officer has provided a comment on the discharge of this condition, in which they raise no objection.

Have you satisfied any planning conditions that came with the permission. I'd be amazed if there are none.

Is there not an option to use the first company again? Or ask them to update their previous report with a new date for a suitable fee. All depends if the PLA are already aware of your unfavourable report.

If and when we get to that stage yes of course. But i like to learn.

As i dont have the knowledge to answer this yet. Is there a table or a calculation i can use that would for example provide the necessary info for a 4, 6, 8 & 10kw array. or whatever is practical/allowed/sensible. The house will be 200 square metres, UFH, Vaillant 7kw ashp, compulsory EV point out front.

Thanks and yes i thought that was the way to go. As stated above, is 500mm deep appropriate? Thanks for this as well, good idea. As to JohnMo's point about being vague, yes totally accept that. That'll be my ignorance of this subject. As it stands today i have no idea if the local rule makers will allow me to put an array in or of what size. It a conservation area. I understand local micro inverters are the current idea. The available fence line space would allow me a 30 metre run of panels on their ' long side' horizontal, if i do a single run. Neighbours on the other side of the fence would then not even see the array so no nuisance value to them.

I have enough space on our plot for a south facing ground array along the northern fence line of our garden. Probably cannot afford to actually install this day one but if there is any money left ( yeah i know)once we move in i would like to put an array in place. So the question is what cables and at what depth should i lay down, just in case. The consumer unit at the front of the house on the west side is 21 metres from the closest point that the array would be sited. Thanks as always keith

Ok it appears to mean the volume of the entire outdoor unit so we are good.

We have just had a planning department concern about our planned install of a 7kW Vaillant. They have siad we dont have permitted development rights because it was not included in our submission. It was clearly shown on the drawings as located on the south side of the house. Regardless, the only question i cannot yet answer from the Class G requirements is the size of the compressor. I have seen this written down somewhere and am currently scanning all the Vaillant literature i can find. But does anyone have a link to where i might find this parameter please? Thanks as always keith

You were not there and you are incorrect. I did not express to him the views that i have here. He offered his own opinion that we should not need to alter our home to suit the boiler. Whether this is a good or bad strategy is another question.

I believe it is clear what the observed issue is. I believe that to all practical standards it is not likely to be possible to detect if the CH water experiences the same pause to heating. And in any case the engineer has confirmed what he does observe and why. He said himself that opening TRV's ( at least one) does stop the issue at the hot water taps. He also agreed that changing our house heat behaviour, while effective, is not the answer to the problem and that the boiler should be able to cope with how we want/need to live. But that Worcester Bosch would not be offering to replace the device for this scenario.

The 'error' is me having cold shower water. Whether or not the central heating is being presented with no hot water supply on some occasions is, as previously stated, invisible to me and probably to anyone. This is true. Engineer demonstrated this when he was at our house. By opening the bathroom towel radiator TRV fully the issue did not occur during tests.

I maintain that it is indeed unsophisicated. Becuase... The control algorithm cannot cope with this. Remember, nothing i am doing is outside of the published operating parameters of the boiler. Forget whether or not my house is poorly insulated ( it is). or i have too many TRV's, or i dont want to run at a higher temperature in the house to mitigate the over production of hot water.

Agree But that means us having to modify our chosen living conditions to suit an unsophisticated combi boiler. Mind you, i doubt Worcester Bosch are going to do anything about it so perhaps that is what i will have to do. One thing is for certain, there wont be a combi in the new build.