Kelvin

https://ruuvi.com/how-to-calibrate-a-hygrometer-or-air-humidity-sensor/

He stores the wood for at least a year before working it. He took the larger one away to refinish it so it’s very nearly flat now. The smaller one is butcher’s block style using the end grain which is just used for meat isn’t showing any other signs apart from the slight warping. I was concerned it might start to come apart. He also made our dining table but he said it will need refinishing after being in the house for 6 months or more. I have a large oak off cut sitting in the garage left over from the utility room worktop that I intend making into a chopping board.

Varies from room to room with a high of 43% and a low of 31% (this sensor is right by the back door). Most rooms are around 38%. These are readings from the Loxone light switches which can measure temp and RH. What I’ve noticed is the temp readings between the Loxone switch and the Heatmiser thermostat (both near each other) can vary by as much as 2°C with the Loxone switches always reading lower. The MVHR extract RH says 32%. House temp is 21°C downstairs and 17.5°C upstairs. Outside temp has been below freezing for two weeks or so. No problems with dry skin etc though. We had some large chopping boards made by a local guy both of which curled very slightly (about 1mm or so) enough that they rocked very slightly. He makes loads for the local area and it’s never happened before as they all generally go into older properties where the RH is higher. I fitted wee silicone feet to them. I have bought a humidifier to use in the TV room where I also keep my guitars although I’ve put them all back in their cases.

Yes your SE drawings should specify the fixings and likely wall straps. Ours did anyway.

They don’t really think 3 is good it’s just the line where you do need to do something else about ventilation if the builder achieves it. They know that UK building companies have no aspiration to be better hence why airtightness building regs are so poor. Good effort though. It’s a nice feeling.

The top one is a circulation pump. It can either be set for radiators (left side) fixed flow (top) or under floor heating (right side) each option has three settings depending on the number or rads of square metre size of the UFH. The LED displays a number of things including flow rate and energy used (in Watts) It’s hard to see but yours looks like it’s on the middle setting for rads. Do you have the manual as it will likely give you some idea there.

80% of Scottish new builds are timber framed. We’ve had no trouble insuring ours either (timber framed and clad) In fact we tick all the hard boxes, flat roof, metal roof, timber framed and timber cladding, private water supply, treatment plant. There might well be reduced mortgage options should we come to sell limiting the sales market. I’ll either worry about that in 20 odd years or it’s a problem for the kids to sort out.

Agreed and they’d also likely have the smell of smoke in the house.

I started sealing the screws then read you posting this before and stopped wasting my time. We got 0.44 on the final test.

I extended the sewerage line to the garage (shower and loo in there) and took the SVP through the garage roof. I also have an AAV in the house inside the coomb void where I just had enough height to be higher than the sink. We also fitted the percolation pipe as per the bottom picture. I called Graf about that and they recommended that’s the best way to do it. It’s all been fine since we moved in 6 months ago. The main advantages for me were no holes through the roof so no air tightness problems to deal with, cold bridges (albeit small), leaks, damage to the metal roof, and it leaves the roof looking really clean with no pipework.

Possibly but if that filter is getting wet then there’s a serious issue with the MVHR or how it’s installed. Our intake filter was pretty dirty after a couple of months. It cleaned up ok and I replaced it at 6 months.

The advice I was given by someone who works for a DNO was to keep questioning the estimates you get from them and get a breakdown of the cost. Although they are reluctant to go into detail until they move the estimate to a quote. They all seem to start off high. My initial estimate was £26500. In the end it cost us less than £500. I did need to do all the trenching etc myself.

Yes it is good. I don’t have the twist pad version but our Neff hob is excellent and I use the frying sensor most of the time.

Happened to a friend. Bought boards and left them in his barn. The top boards were fine as they went on the walls. The bottom boards got damp and fell off the ceiling shortly after fitting but weren’t plastered.

Nice. I didn’t have the wherewithal for that so used DPC lapped over the head. It doesn’t have the side upstands but seems to be working. I had cause to take a few boards off recently on the window that gets the worst of the wind and rain and it was dry.

It should apply the profile you’ve set up to the thermostat. Easy enough to check just be going to the Neostat.

You don’t need the Heatmiser Neohub to control the system though. It’s an add on to give you remote access and ‘easier’ control. Mine is still in the box somewhere.

Stone resin. Here’s the install instructions

Neff have a puck type control https://www.neff-home.com/uk/discover/design-highlights/twistpad-and-twistpadflex

Ours is slightly bigger than 120cm x 80cm (was cut to fit) and it’s fixed with low expansion PU foam as per the instructions. I was rather sceptical but seems to be fine so far.

One of ours is a grey blue colour and hard to keep clean. The other is white and much better.

The shower try makers normally have instructions on how they want their trays installed. One of ours was on flexible tile adhesive and the other expanding foam. The main thing is a strong level base.

What’s prompted her awareness is more about her attitude that water is a precious commodity rather than necessarily heating it as we’re on a borehole. What’s prompted that change in attitude is a neighbour down the hill from us has lost her water supply due to Iron Oxidising bacteria problem with her water source. She was about to sell her house which she obviously can’t until this is resolved and even then it might be difficult. But, yes I get the ‘stop going on’ reply too. 😂

Rather than heating more water we’ve been trying to reduce how much we use. Our showers can report on length of shower and amount of water used etc. My other half was averaging 10 min showers whereas I am less than half that. Since becoming aware of this she’s reduced her time in the shower by 3 minutes. Over a week it’s a huge amount of water.

Insulation is easy to understand at a basic level which generally is more is better (forget about diminishing returns for a moment) But that’s as much understanding your typical builder/trade has. Even then they don’t get the importance of fitting it correctly. Air tightness is almost other worldly to most of them alongside controlled and uncontrolled ventilation. I could tell from my conversations with whichever trades were on-site that they really didn’t understand it. The number of times I heard them saying ‘a hoose needs tae breathe’ Consequently I banned anyone on-site from drilling holes in anything.