Kelvin

I think he suggested earlier that he intends to fit his own treatment plant which is the right thing to do, especially after all the disagreement. I won't ever share services like this again after the experience at our previous place. Became a pia and also added to the difficulty when it came to sell.

Our downstairs screen is only 1200mm leaving a 900mm gap for accessibility. The tray runs the full width of the room wall to tall. No water gets around the screen and any water that goes beyond the screen lands on the tray so runs back to the trap.

The crane driver is the most experienced and knowledgeable on what his crane needs I’d have thought. At least if there’s a problem it’s on them.

Ever since you started talking about leaks I’ve been getting the ‘find that leak’ guy videos fed to me. Quite interesting watching his process for finding leaks. It’s mainly burst pipes he seems to deal with and swimming pools.

We thought about fitting the flapper panels but decided to see how the showers worked first and they both turned out to be ok without them. Although they both have overhead rain showers which helps where the water goes. We never use the other shower heads.

Which SAP version is that based on? A114 here (SAP 2012 V9.92) I have all the things you say not to add. However, I also have an 8.45kWp PV array and batteries (not sure if the batteries make a significant difference) If I spent between £15k-£25k I could get that up to A125. No thanks. My understanding is that SAP 10 favours more ‘eco’ friendly houses. eta just checked the as designed SAP score which was B92. I can’t see that this included a PV array though as that section of the report is blank.

Yes I was surprised at how big a hole we were going to need if using crates. The problem we had was we are on a considerable slope so digging said big hole into the side of the hole wasn’t going to be easy or practical. I suggested terracing the slope into three wide terraces primarily to give us a bit more useable garden area which also afforded the long trench way of doing it in the middle terrace.

We have a similar rooflight arrangement. Our trimmers bolted together as defined in the structural engineering drawings albeit I had to add them after the fact as they were forgotten about.

Not convinced I’d do the glass all the way to the ceiling. Both of our glass panels are standard heights. The downstairs is fixed with a vertical post up into a joist. The upstairs is fixed with a horizontal bar into the wall. Both look fine. The extract for both is still in the shower enclosure. As mentioned above you either go for a big gap or no gap as anything else looks like a hit and a miss. A lesson I learnt very early on in our build and I stuck to this ‘rule’ with every such problem. Your 400mm gap is too small in my opinion. We have a 500mm gap upstairs and it’s as narrow as I’d want it. How wide is the bathroom as we were faced with the same dilemma as you in our downstairs bathroom. What I did was buy a shower tray as wide as the room (just over 2m) that could be cut to size. Then you only have one glass panel to fit. Because it’s so long we don’t have any water splashing up against the opposite wall. I’d mock something up with some sheeting material and get your wife to walk through it several times before committing to 400mm. If you don’t have sheeting material just stand 400mm from a wall and get her to walk through the gap. eta I fretted a lot about how things look and whether it would annoy you forevermore. I have learnt that things you intended to look a certain way you don’t notice after a while. Things that you thought might bother you generally don’t. But there are the odd things that annoy you like hell. The trick is to try and identify all three as you go along. Not an easy task.

I have the manufacturer warranty for our metal roof and they made it clear it’s just for the material. Even then it’s quite heavily caveated with enough loopholes for them to get out of it based on the quality of the workmanship. Which is ironic in that they won’t look at the workmanship of an install as it’s outside of their scope right up until there’s a potential materials fault then they will.

If it’s a general structural build issue why do they need to be a zinc roof expert? Either a roof fits its stated purpose of keeping the weather out long term or it doesn’t.

I’ve had some experience of this approach although not with a metal roof. Their quality guy came out and needed some prompting from me to thoroughly check it and found a number of issues with it. This was mostly poor workmanship rather than a fundamental installation problem. The installer fixed that but I was still left with a poorly finished job in places compared to other examples I had gone to see. Ultimately the manufacturer wasn’t really interested and the installer was not willing to do anything else. We cut our losses in the end. I have the manufacturer warranty but not the installation warranty for what any of them are really worth.

The problem is it also works the other way and most folk can’t afford the risk to lose. How many times do we read about court cases with enormous bankrupting costs that started off as a relatively minor problem.

Whether they are universal depends on the bath I think. Check the bath spec. I framed ours. The bit that can flex is the bath panel side if it’s unsupported other than the bath panel itself. Some bath panels are fitted to a plastic mounting frame. Because I tiled the bath panel side I built a timber frame and then screwed cement board to it (because I happened to have that) then tiled onto that.

We have a Roca The Gap 1700x700 acrylic bath. I’ve no idea how thick it is. However it’s completely solid with no flex. I did build a frame around it and it sits solidly on 6 feet.

Ours is light grey. Probably no help. 😂 Ignore the bit painting I’m doing

SEPA didn’t have any involvement with ours but building standards wanted an engineered design. Ours is 14m x1m trench with 110mm perforated pipe in pea shingle and permeable membrane. Silt trap where all the pipes meet then down into an inspection chamber.

I will do. I have a load of stuff to advertise but will do it all at once as I’ll need to dig it out from the workshop.

I had that here and there too. Light sand to flatten it and another coat. I should add that I used paint suitable for mist coating without watering down. No issues with the hard wearing top coat pulling the mist coat off. I did have that problem on the bottom of one wall but the prep was exactly the same as everywhere else.

I could open a small hardware shop. The kind where you go in for a single screw, and some tape. I also have enough tek screws to build 10 garages.

None of the Sihga screws broke. I have snapped other stainless steel and self cutting screws though. Slow and steady wins the day.

Amazon sell them. Called appliance skis.

I can pull it straight out but I can get those two white things under the front feet and then use them to pull it out

Do you mean 2 or 3 mm or 2/3 of a mm? Either is quite tight but integrated appliances don’t shake your units apart and they are snugly fitted. Modern washing machines that are levelled on a flat surface don’t vibrate much at all. Ours doesn’t. The space for ours is 9mm wider than this washing machine (which is on the larger side) There’s 30mm to the underside of the worktop. I also have this to get it in and out. The floor is tiled to the back of the wall and it’s one tile so no lip to catch the feet. Went in easily enough with the two white doofers.

If it’s a shared system then presumably you require it to be installed too? Also explains why it’s so big I guess as presumably shared between a few houses.