Moonshine

I have a section on my build where a masonry wall connects to a timber frame. This is for a wall above joists, to allow a step between roof levels. The structural engineer detail the connection as below My concern is render cracking at this join. Here is the upright bolted to the wall as on site. These are M10 threaded bar embedded into block by 80mm and resin anchored in place. I am just wondering if there is anything else that can be done to reduce movement between the two wall types which would create cracking (structural enginner said it didnt need a movement joint). I am wondering if the render carrier board extends over the joint to the masonry by 600mm or so and fixed to the block.

I have the oppotunity to make the cavity deeper, this pump looks 125mm if i made the cavity 140mm could i fit the manifold and pump in?

1656013646919_Unitherm Data Sheets V4 Manifold.pdf

It would be a 6 port manifold

Has anyone installed a manifold in a studwork wall cavity before with an access hatch. I am using 89mm studwork which gives a decent space and also the location i am thinking i could make this cavity a bit bigger. My main worry is making the access panel looking o.k in a plasterboard wall, though it would be behind a door that would mainly be open. Thoughts?

these guys apparently have 9 in stock https://www.metrofixings.co.uk/product/simpson-strong-tie-icfvl-cw-insulated/21371

to be determined, what are the implications here?

930mm sounds sensible especially to get the tiles over the tray.

I am going through internal stud work, and there is a small alcove for a 900mm shower tray, i want to make sure that i get the timber studs set out right, as door 15 location is critical. As shown the gap for the shower alcove between the studs is 950mm, what do people think, is this enough to allow for tile backer boards and tiles?

To get the fall on our flat roof we are putting on roof furrings. The furrings are running perpendicular to the joists so we can have them at what ever spacing we want. Is 600mm centres standard? I was wondwring about 400mm centres to reduce the chance of the 18mm OSB3 boards sagging but then remembered the 150mm of PIR will add rigidity.

Roofer needs 18mm ply lining to a parapet wall as below (he says 9mm on upstand will be o.k). What is the easies way to mechanically fix the boards to the masonry? initial thoughts were something like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-60mm-100-pack/3313h anything less chunky?

Need some input into an issue i have. My brickies have been off site for a while and i had to offer them a bonus to get them back to get the work done by a certain time. There is agreed fixed fee for the remaining works and a bonus for getting it done by a certain date. This is detailed in text messages (about 3 weeks ago) with the brickie actaully stating the costs. They have been on site for two weeks now and the brickies (two of them not the main guy) havent got the work finished. The brickie is now wanting payment upto the agreed fee (not including the bonus). They propose doing the rest of the works on daily rates and want agreement on that. Also they are still wanting to claim the bonus amount even though thst date has passed. I am pushing back as there was a recent agreed fixed fee and the brickie knows the site. I dont want worker on daily rates, also shocked they still expect the bonus payment even though that date has passed. To me they are completely taking the pi$$. The problem is, is thst brickies in this area are in short supply. Looking for thoughts on the best way forword. - get them off site and eat the delay in finding new brickies. - push back on the daily rates but get them to figure out an additional fixed fee. Still risking them not doing the works. If I pay them the remaining now there is nothing holding them to actaully coming back - suck it up and go on dailys. Thoughts?

Ah balls, i didnt see these on friday and its installed flush to the joists. There i was thinking it was quite tidy

On landings is it typical when installing caberdek to fit to the joist edge or to over shoot by a little way, Below in the red balloon is 'joist bridge' landing across an atrium. Should the Caberdek be fitted flush to the joists or over shoot a bit for a banister / balustrade? This landing is the type of look i am after for the landing below is a 3D render of the stars and the area that is being boarded

I am about to fit joists into built in wall hangers. If my brickies have got the levels out is there anything I can use at a shim to jack the joist up a bit to get it level? I am thinking something like these

screw the boards down too?

I thought it already was Maybe an admin can add it to the home page

Just do the opposite of what I do, and she'll be rite. It included 54 sheets of caberdek 22mm at a reasonable price, driver even said I was lucky to get them.

The beauty (fantastic to have joists and flooring) and horror of what I was faced with this morning.

I was expecting my delivery of joists and Caberdek on Tuesday, having explained to the manufacture that due to site restrictions I will need to handball them off the truck and will need to arrange to have bodies on site when the delivery arrives to unload. On Monday i was pressing them via email and phone to confirm the time of delivery on Tuesday so i could get people there, they came back saying it won't be Tuesday, but probably Thursday or Friday. I told them categorically it couldn't be Friday, and if this week it could only be Thursday. I re-arranged my bodies on site for Thursday. Driving to work this morning after doing the school run, i get a call at 8:30 from the driver telling me they were 10 mins from site, also pretty much at the same time i got a text from my bodies on site that they can't do Thursday. So i ended up in a nightmare scenario of a significant delivery turning up unannounced, needing the materials for my build and no one but me to unload it. Hence this is how i spent my morning (after urgently booking A/L from work) unloading 2.5T of joists and caberdek off the back of a lorry, then also carrying most of it up a flight of stairs to 'ground floor' above the basement. Needless to say i have a sore back and in need of a cold beer (after sending a sh!tty email to the manufacturer) If you don't have a sense of humour (or some physical capability) don't self build.

50mm liquid screed and increase insulation to 175mm. Though it will need to be sanded for tiles to go onto the screed. I think heating is needed upstairs, it is what I am doing. Either radiators or aluminium spreader plates screwed under floor boards. Where in the uk are you?

sold

What are peoples thoughts on these screws, they seem to have a smaller head so may let more water in? the head will need to be taped over. https://www.toolstation.com/reisser-torx-diamond-point-flooring-screw/p49364

I have been quoted £120 + VAT for labour for a stone wall. That seems a lot, what do people reckon?

what tape did you use?