Ferdinand

That inside the wall loo roll dispenser does nt seem to have an indicator of the stock level. If you are going to do it... Ferdinand

I am not sure that "generic" has a generic meaning . Is it a telltale for good windows that they regularly get steamed up on the outside in the morning? I usually just specify A Rated or the best they have. Usually the extra cost is minimal, not unlike that when they built our conservatory they put 100mm of Celotex in the walls and floor on request at no extra cost when I received a lower spec in the quote. Presumably since it would only add £100-£200 on a 12k project and came at the "clinch the business" stage, Is it actually mandatory to have Fensa certification? Or is that one of those where it is just recommended? *innocent face* Ferdinand

That gap is what I call a Cat Killer. Poor Tibbles will fall down that and get stuck, and die horribly. It is also the size of gap that will fill with crud that can never be cleaned. Build right into the wall, or make it wide enough that a person (not necessarily an American person) can walk through. THe same goes for valleys on roofs or valleys where a conservatory roof meets the building. Ferdinand

I think my questions are all suitable to be framed as policy questions .. which all Planners should answer anyway - with an informal diversion into a consideration of your site if you guide the conversation appropriately. That is why you need the map up,your sleeve. A wise man - if my Latin is not too rusty that is the meaning of Sensus and he always sounds quite wise and HOG (which I declare to be an adjective) - will always leave 1m on all sides, policy or not, so that he can put scaffolding up on all sides without having to involve or pay ground rent to neighbours or council for the next 25 years when he wants to paint it or similar. In my LP a scaffolding on pavement license is the best part of 100 ukp a week plus buggeration squared. It is also a buffer zone which reduces the likelihood of neighbours taking umbrage at your PP and becoming aeriated. Ferdinand

I would say absorb all the stuff above, then talk to a Planning Officer to find out what the local policy and practice are. IT may only be guidance, but complying with it will save you the aggro of an Appeal and perhaps 6 months and a lot of work, unless you are Captain Mainwaring and enjoy such things ! In practice the main bits of space you need to allow for will be: The Building. SPace standards may apply but since you want it large not small that should be OK. Space Around the Building so you are far enough from boundaries. Usually means 1m+ iirc. Parking Spaces, which will mainly depend on how many occupants and/or bedrooms you plan. EXtra bedrooms can be smuggled in by e.g. subdividing later if you really need to. Approx 12-18 sqm each. My LPA require 2 for 2 bed, 3 for 3 bed+. Minus 1 if you are on a good bus route near a town centre. Private Amenity Space i.e. garden. in my LPA minimum is 50 sqm. SPace for your soak away etc which tend to need to be 5m from a boundary or as similar as possible. Then they may require turning space on site but often not since research showed that reversing out onto a main road was ess trouble than expected and the requirement was loosened in the Manual for Roads and Streets over a decade ago. Then there is the usual stuff about habitable room to neighbour habitable room facing distance etc, but at this point that is not relevant. So max building size means roughly 50sqm in front or side for parking, the same behind for the private garden, and a 1m stripe around the building to avoid the neighbours. Narrow strips will not count for amenity space. UNless you are two beds or less you really want more than fifty sqm of amenity space so it could appeal to families etc. Phone up your LPA and ask for those details. Have a site plan and / or block plan online or ready to email plan or link so he can have a look on the spot. Or know how to find it on the Councils map on their website as that is what he will look at. Ferdinand

Need to be careful comparing like for like here, but £100k should be vaguely possible for a build budget - even possible including your plot sometimes. Some plots are free or nearly free. That 132sqm size, though :-) A couple of years ago there was the excellent £100k house series. Ferdinand

Oooh. Metabo :-)

"Bishops Finger" is normally waved at recalcitrant Vicars, ime.

It gets more expensive when you are caught saying things like that...

Being cheeky, has anybody spotted good offers for the following, which I need in the next period? - The Makita recent multitool discussed on the other thread. - Infra Red Camera - Normal camera Cheers Ferdinand

Verse 2: The centipede returned from lunch; her head was in a spinner. Her fury rose to that same pitch, she dug a trench and drained the ditch. slow-boiled a pan without a hitch, and ate frog's legs for dinner. (Gets coat)

I rather suspect that there is no such thing :-).

I think a roof pitch of 30 degrees is also good (eg for a bungalow) in build terms, since this gives measurements of 1 in ridge height for 2 along the surface of the roof, You can play the same games with eg 3 4 5 triangles for an angle of 37 degrees to keep measurements straightforward, though not quite as simple as 45 degrees. Here is an article in HB&R about it, which also discusses aesthetics (*) https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/getting-the-right-pitch/ But I am sure you will get the balance. Ferdinand (*) The centipede was happy, quite until the frog in fun said: "Pray, which leg goes after which?"; and worked her mind to such a pitch she lay distracted in a ditch - considering how to run.

Looks nice and simple. I would say that shelterbelts etc need very careful handling as there is little shelter in the inherent design. Also doesn't the sun come from the North in Australia (doesn't it?) . So your sheltered entrance and terrace may need to be on the other side. Or I ma be wibbling. I think I would want a potential second living space for privacy, and perhaps make use of doors straight from bedroom to the terrace. Ferdinand

That sounds Ed Balls' number for Strictly next week!

Edited

Does something that big physically unbalance a multitool ? I find that a 2ah battery gives me a huge duration on my 14.4V cordless drill, so I am not sure I need a huge one for this. Ferdinand

OK. About ready to decide. Which Makita battery system is the one to use from a fresh start? I need it to be around for another 5-10 years, and be both light and powerful . Ferdinand

I have a Dewalt cordless drill which is excellent (not as far ahead relatively as the Metabo from the 1990s which died three years ago), but very good for the size. But I heard things about Dewalt going for a less high end market with their newer products in the last year or two, so I am not committing to them long term. They can be the mistress. That was from my local trade powertool centre who maintains his Dewalt 'ticket' so he can access repair services etc for customers on dealer terms. So it looks like Makita, as a better "spouse". Ferdinand

If it is *really* waterproof you could seal the door and have a plunge spa through the loft hatch. Or an alligator tank.

Spotted today: 50mm Celotex B&Q have about 40% off 50mm Celotex 1200x450mm insulation sheets if you buy 10. 0.54sqm each, works out at the equiv of £18 for a 1.2x2.4m sheet and goes in the car. +10% more if you take a pensioner on a Wednesday or have a trade account. No idea if old traders get 20%. Free delivery over £250. http://www.diy.com/departments/celotex-insulation-board-l1200mm-w450mm-t-50mm/307375_BQ.prd Decorative Aggregates Major and Bulk Bags Wickes 3 for 2 on various until Tuesday. http://www.wickes.co.uk/spotlight/q2decaggregates?home-page-banner=8

This thread is intended for short term excellent offers, perhaps especially for normally non-discounted materials and things which can be stocked for the future. It is intended to be complementary to the longer term material on the "Rewards" thread. We all know about regular good value such as Wickes for Postfix. I am not sure if there is a need/call for it, but I spotted a couple so I thought I would give it a try.

My dad once made a bathroom moulded as a single piece of fibreglass, inclduing everything except for (I think) the WC. It didn't catch-on. You could go for one of the kitchen alternatives such as Corian or similar, or granite. Or marble (find an old shop-counter)? OT: On vanity units, Ikea do some very nice inexpensive vanity unit/whb combos for a couple of hundred or less. Ferdinand

I have had a Fein Multimaster tool for more than 10 years, and I am looking for a cordless one. Can anyone recommend? I am tempted to go Makita or an Aldi/LiDL if a special buy turns up. If I go Makita is it a standard Makita battery? Or could someone recommend a different brand? My existing tools are almost all Metabo, but a number of years old so it may be time for a change. My requirement is not going to be heavy or constant work, but I normally go for either good quality or disposable, not "just OK". Cheers Ferdinand

When you are happy for the oiks and the potential injury claimants to have easy access?