saveasteading

If I've said it already, apologies. Every curtain wall I've done has had a structural steel behind it at a height that hides it behind a rail. This reduces the curtain wall section by about half and the cost more. Several £k. It's still curtain walling though, not domestic plug in size and cost.

Why? I thought it was just another ashp.

A fair bit, yes.

is the mayor. Toddle into the village office and have a chat. Oui ou non. At least that is the one experience I have.

I didnt know of these. What is the advantage?

Have you proposed a big tank that the fire brigade could use?. 10m3 is the size they like I think. Then there is no reliance on the sprinkler working, power still working etc. You'll need a turning space too.

These are as low as €300 or so in Spain, with one each side of a wall, so also easy to do. They are a bit inefficient though, and noisy so prices rise from there.

but it needs a hole in the ground, which needs support. also, as @Russell griffithssaid, it may undermine the walls.

Not osb. It absorbs the damp then fails. You could screw of wire tanalised battens to the frame, top, middle bottom, then screw the panels to that. This then becomes a kite / glider so you have to spike it down very firmly.

And if if doesn't you can show her the white book. Then Reduce the bass? Headphones instead of amps? What are you jamming with? Fiddle or acoustic guitar, no problem. Bass guitar...hmm in your control. Tuba. Drum kit. Bass is the likely issue, and you will need density for that.

My note about the next up spec being needed is based on a real sound test between rooms. They were as spec but all failed due to flanking sounds (corners have to touch in real life). Fortunately the lower result happened to be acceptable in the special circumstances. So it's up to you. Or pay a lot of £k to a specialist who will (over)- specify, build, test and guarantee a result. I've built a maths class next to woodwork and it was OK. Anything can be done.

Shout at me if you like. It will be equally productive. There are no guarantees.

In any case, the white book and the equivalents from other manufacturers overstate the effect. The tests were on small assemblies within a gantry in a box in a lab. i.e. better than optimum real life. Some assemblies are estimates based on the tests. An acoustician told me to always to take the next better assembly if these acoustic properties were essential. Discontinuity is a major feature of the best performing assemblies.

Doesn't that create a sound path? The continuity of the hangers and cuts in the upper boards?

Either. I'm thinking of working in a confined space, and not undermining foundations, as compared to open space with the rest of the groundworks.

It's not difficult or hugely expensive but needs knowledge and care. by the time you've built a waterproof tank for a basement (waterproof on the outside) you might as well make that your pool, lined internally, so all concrete not a premade tank. I wouldn't want to do it inside an existing house though. That's what takes it from 20k to 40k, or 80k Then add for M and E and damp prevention. Thereafter you may use the pool perhaps 1,000 times at £40 a time before allowing for the upkeep. Sorry, sometimes I can be a bit negative.

Once you have dealt with a wet basement you don't want it again. It may depend on the building's location and the ground. If you dig a hole does it fill? It is a reversed water tank really. would you build in brick and blackjack to store water? It works for a while then starts to leak.

I think that was meant to be 'necessary.' Yes ask, and some will include some minor changes. most importantly, to tell the gangs using it they only get one readjustment , ot whatever.

A readymade tank is a good idea. It doesn't leak and doesn't crack. The slab and base need to be strong, and you need retaining walls for the pit. It's a basement though and will fill with groundwater. When you empty the pool it will float up so clever design needed. A concrete tank needs skilled design and construction or it will leak. In med spain the ground is hard and dry and doesnt move so they get away with rough concrete...most of the time.

5%

If the sheets are uncut, or cut properly, and with a quality product, it doesn't need it. Silicon tape under any laps stops capillary action and water sitting there permanently. Double thickness plastisol for exposed sites is a fairly recent product.

There is a varnish to coat the cut ends. But the corrosion is usually caused by incorrect cutting. The factory cuts the roll of material by shearing, and this drags the galvanising over the orherwise exposed steel. It also keeps the plastisol fully adhered. Another cause is if sheets are lapping lengthwise without a seal, as water sticks beneath. I've only ever used top end materials, but apparently the agricultural grades don't last as long. If end corrosion is spotted early then it can be stopped.

Some businesses have loads of kit, so the time period isn't significant. They are charging for the labour. Others have hardly any, so it matters a lot....or they take it from elsewhere and paint their own colour code on it. Worth having several quotes from bigger and smaller. Changing the scaffolding mid project cam be costly too. Will that be jecessaet?

Is this single metal sheets on suspended timber battens? What do you see when looking up at the roof underside? A sketch would save more questions.

I'd say that for certainty, you build a solid ceiling with no penetrations, using acoustic bar, and fibreglass behind. Then no sound will get up or down from you new acoustic enclosure. Then you build your secondary ceiling below, again using acoustic bar, but you can inset your spots and even speakers, maybe. The cheapskate chancer method would be to not build the secondary ceiling but inset what and where you like with an acoustic baffle behind each. There are hoods for spotlights, designed as fire barriers but with some muffling perhaps. You could attach additional sound insulation to that. Ideally you want some density too, hence @Russell griffiths plasterboard box. So a plasterboard box that will slot in the void, stuffed with rockwool, and then a light with a hood on it pressed in.