saveasteading

I use maybe the small container in 2 years , where there is a big problem and only in an enclosed area where hedgehogs etc will not visit. eg in the closed greenhouse. trying to use none at all.

Log burners: Building inspector has asked for more detail, so for anyone who doesn't know, as I have just learnt.... As earlier discussion, the air intake is needed and mandatory for a modern (airtight) house. It can be an inlet placed near the stove, but I have gone off that idea, as most stoves now seem to have rear inlets for direct air. A 5kW burner needs a 60mm piped supply. There is no mention of length of pipe, and any friction losses along the way. The manufacturers seem to only provide an adaptor to the back, where I had expected an optional kit for appearances and strength. The utilitarian spiral bendy pipe seems to be the standard solution but will look horrible behind the stove, and I wonder about cleaning damage. I have come up with a solution for our circumstances. The feed needs to be brought in early so have allowed for pvc drain solution under the wall, and then the slinky pipe can go in, just in time. Needs something better at the back of the stove but this will do for now. Not a pvc pipe obviously, but perhaps keep our eyes open for something sturdy to replace or enclose it. For example if KeeKlamp made 60mm or greater id (their biggest is 60od). My sketch is attached.....I am no draughtsman. Not looking for comments although they are welcome of course. This is simply for the greater good.

Does it have acoustic bearings/pads? It could otherwise set up a hum through the joists. How far away? I would hazard that it depends on whether the expelled cold air is horizontal or vertical, as it needs to be got rid of, but fresh air can come from all around. My thought on the fence construction is to use horizontal planks, hit and miss on opposite sides, as this is the basis of some motorway acoustic fencing.

I like to plant 2 or 3 bean types.. runner, french, and yellow french because they come at different times, and the yellow ones are easy to find. Also plant a traditional sweet pea in among them as it attracts the pollinating insects much better, then they do your beans as well.

Yes you could not. You know the theory that there is no such thing as a bad suggestion? Still applies. If you are onto something here, you can keep the credit.

I have heard some very noisy ones , but I don't think they were thoughtfully installed. They are clearly becoming quieter too. Although it is essential to have lots of free air around the heat pump, if there is plenty of room, a fence could be built around it that combines free air flow with acoustic dampening. Hedges too? I would think so.

I like that.

I will try that dough idea. otherwise I have to stick with the sacrificial lettuce plan. the slugs come out at night and crawl all over the lettuce, in full view, including tiny ones, and they are easy to remove by torchlight. after a week there are few left...for a while. I read that slugs will not crawl (?) over sheeps' wool due to barbs in the surface. this was in an advert for expensive wool pellets. As a whole fleece sells for about £3 it would be handy if farmers could provide the garden market and perhaps get more. Also, the principle of intermingling the veg and flowers (not all carrots in one spot etc) works quite well, and marigolds/ citronella/ herbs can disguise the scents that pests home in on.

Yes, I think so. discuss what you might want to do 1/2 hour get the file out and review. 1/2 hour discuss with you or architect, then personal review after the meeting, 1 hour admin re agreeing what to do and the cost 1 hour hour do the new design 2 hours draw the new proposal, check, sign off, 2 hours admin in sending 1/2 hour admin in invoicing 1/2 hour allow for interim discussions 1/2 hour that comes to 8.5. If it is a bigger practice then some of that is done by admin/draughtsperson

Reverberation can be a problem when the surfaces are hard (it doesn't matter much what is behind). It becomes more of a nuisance when hard surfaces are parallel, and worst when all the 6 faces are parallel to the opposites. Furniture and other furnishings help a lot, eg curtains, pictures., carpets. Sound through walls, floors and ceilings is another matter altogether.

you don't mention build quality, actual airtightness instead of 'assessed' and the confidence that there are no nasty surprises that may emerge in a few years

Pinching or retaining land is inbuilt in our psyche. They are unlikely to have proof of when they moved the fence. and if they did this by stealth behind hedges etc it might not stand up to dispute. There are nearly always some remnants of the original boundary that can show it is actually still there. eg they may have put a bit of fence up to keep a child or dog in, but the boundary is still marked. well done though. must have been worrying. I have had council people say we had pinched a few metres of acpublic right of way.....we hadn't. When I asked them to prove it they couldn't, and didn't even know where to start measuring from....maps and plans are very approximate. The red line on your deeds probably scales 500mm

It doesn't cost a lot if you shop around. I can't see how they can make money hiring it and emptying it once a week for £20, but it saves mess on your site. It also stops them disappearing for half hours, and 'having to' have breakfast when out to use the cafe loo. So the job will go faster. I used to argue against but am converted.....and prices have come down. If the site allows, you can sometimes get the waste to drop into a drain, and save them emptying, but you will have to clean it...as the workers will not.

It is only needed if there is no other protection to the stair. So if the stair is timber, but is protected by plasterboard then the stair cannot burn. Theoretically a fire could start in the cupboard and burn the stair, or in the hallway and burn the stair......but the door would not help much. Or start in the cupboard and spread to the hall......not a proper argument. I have had this argument with building inspectors re a 34 storey stair, and they eventually conceded that a timber stair was allowed if protected. It is a common misunderstanding, perhaps in the 'how to be a building inspector' book. As above, if you do fir a door, 30minuite doors are mostly hollow with stuffing, so you might need a 1 hour door. which I can barely lift. First action: look at the construction to decide if the stairs can go on fire. 2. protect with plasterboard. 3. fire door if necessary. this is about fire evacuation and spread, not about interpretation of words in Document B.

I once asked a helical wind-turbine salesman how much power it produced, in practical terms. He answered that it could power the led display that said 'this display is powered by the wind'.

Best remember that advice for the future. Apart from her knowledge was there any other recompense? Money perhaps?

The law in England (don't know about Scotland) protects the landowner. The materials do not belong to the client until paid for, but the supplier has no right to remove them, even if unfixed. I recounted this to a European supplier and they were amazed: apparently for most of Europe the materials remain the supplier's until paid for, and they are entitled to enter the premises to remove any unfixed, or even fixed if it can be done without damage. ProDave. I always wondered if, when Britain supplies drones or tanks , they can (or do) put a dongle in there that could disable it if there is a change of allegiances. Perhaps an electrician can add such a signature to the job....a radio controlled off switch embedded in the wall perhaps.

Protect VP400 PLUS LR is a highly vapour permeable roof underlay. It offers the lowest vapour resistance of any Type LR roofing underlay in its class, and yet it remains airtight. It is suitable for use in all pitched roofs without the need to seal the laps, ensuring fortuitous ventilation. Do you feel lucky, Ventilation?

Thanks. We were going to say Tyvec supra because it wouldn't get a second's thought from the bco. However, after further research, and as we are using metal cladding, we are going for Klober Permasec metal. It says all the right things whereas Tyvek doesn't quite. I say 'going for' but I mean showing it on the drawings. Have a few months to research further as it is very expensive. Want a good job, but paying more is not the only way towards that.

A good plan. Gives the client an excuse for backing down, and a chance to meet and discuss what happens next, that you have taken advice, the certainty of your success at court and the costs the client will incur. It is very good that you have photos. Now is a good time to type up the job process....dates working on each room, when the client was there and saw the work, and any comments . Also re choosing the tiles....were there samples? I say this because you will forget details soon, and a written report now can simply be handed over to the judge and will likely be accepted as accurate. email your notes to a mate, or even yourself, as that kind of date stamps it. Do not exaggerate or elaborate as this will probably be obvious. I knew a famously bad payer once and an unpaid contractor friend asked how best to get paid. I advised a knock on the door and a polite reminder that the payment was overdue, while his 'driver' stood at the gate looking big. Cash immediately...there seems to be a pattern of this. I also saw the same person getting a builders merchant delivery....and I knew the MD so phoned him.....'don't worry , we (all the merchants) all know him and he has to pay everyone in advance and doesn't get discounts.'

You bet. I have general concerns that there could be any number of errors and omissions, as they are clearly not trying/ cutting corners/ can't read drawings. Apart from being wrong, the cutting is very rough indeed, and doesn't suggest skilled use of the blowtorch. Were the holes drilled or burned?

Presumably someone who just doesn't want to pay. 'Why should she and what are you going to do about it?' I have heard of this being quite common with carpet fitters. One subcontractor told me they had built a porch, customer refused to pay, contractor said pay or else...'no' ..so he went in the night and knocked it down. I think the only solution is to get legal.. that is the only way to counter what is stealing, and bullying. You can often get the first legal letter from a solicitor free or quite cheap as it is easy, and a loss leader.

up to you but be aware that the smoke may not disappear tidily, resulting in mucky roof and perhaps an erratic draught at the fire. you can always add a bit on top once the initial works have gone unnoticed.

Tinny details questions coming from the BCO today before issuing a warrant. So this discussion has been timely, as the subject was already on the screen, incl ducting supplier and details. thanks. We have suddenly chosen exact makes of wood stoves before turning a sod on site.....I didn't think this was how it worked but hey, ho. Now to choose an alarm manufacturer, and the make of breather membrane. Just selecting well known names for now. Tyvek is twice the price of others but the name will be recognised. I would normally say 'or equivalent' but am pretending certainty.

is a long way above the eaves....which I had assumed....but if coming out of the gable near the ridge it isn't so much of an issue. The bends will be a bit flexible so the scaffold tube to clamp to isn't such a bad idea.