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Prompted by @Gus Potter Every business is different. But I would give the same quote to a prospective client who openly say 'you come recommended, and we would like a building to do this' ... as I would in formal competitive tender. The former looks like a blank cheque, to add a bit of profit. But it's going to be an easier job, and collaborative, and our reputation hangs on it. Meanwhile the formal one will have the client's consultants all over it trying to show how clever and tough they are. In discussion with a big contractor's MD today , he said publicly that there are about 5 or 6 Architects practices he would refuse to work with, based on very extensive experience. and that collaboration and trust are best for all parties. My attitude was much the same, but includes not liking the attitude of the potential client.... will they pay basically. If a client won't say how many contractors they are asking, then you might be one of 6, with one of them being desperate for work and pricing at a tiny margin. wasting our time, and resources, and with the job suffering on quaity and programme. So no thankyou.

you mean grammar ??? oops apologies for jumping down your throat. @Neo No Gus is right. Ask away. 'Stupid' questions are usually very sensible.

It's not a complex issue, so a highly competent builder, or an SE or Architect (have you used one?) can do this as well as try to make the best of what is already committed to. There are no dodges in planning.

OK some home truths I'm afraid. There is no secret society. It is seriously competitive with high risks. For example today I went to a construction exhibition that had 200 stands and 20 technical lectures. There were thousands of visitors. It was open only to the construction industry. That is simply because the public would clog the place up, taking lots of time at stands with what would be perceived as a tiny chance of a sale. Professionals then stop going and then the exhibitors. The public are welcomed at self-build events. I spoke in detail to about 10 suppliers about their product where I also asked for a guide price. They ALL told me a number. One manufacturer even told me the price they get timber at, which was half of the best I can find. They buy a lorryload every day. It was professionals talking about mostly big projects, but prepared to consider smaller ones if there is a long term relationship. I met an MD who used to be a competitor. We compared profit margins. He will tell anyone that without that margin it isn't viable. Those of us with reputations and ethics will also politely decline a project that is based only on price and not quality. In my own field I would decline to meet potential clients if it was the wrong sort of job or I just didn't take to them. They might respond rudely that it was me being rude. But I could have spent all my time giving out free design and costing advice, earning nothing. To cost and quote for a one-off project takes much time and staff cost. But for the right work I would meet them , spend an hour or more discussing , and give them a very rough cost from experience. That might end up being 10% out either way... that's a lot of money. Materials. As above, suppliers of materials have much the same ethos. What chance do they have of selling that timber to you, if you are asking 10 competitors, and might not even do the project? If you want 10 lengths of timber then get a price off Wickes. If it is 100 lengths then deduct 10% maybe 20% as a starting point from a BM. If you need it and know the spec and lengths and soon, then they will give you a proper price. If you have a big project coming up then ask to meet the sales rep and talk it through. It involves 2 way trust. What stage are you at? Now you aren't going to get anyone wanting to help with that attitude, even less work for you. Or perhaps that is sarcasm. Not remotely the same. So use Wickes or B and Q. Any reason why not?

It depends who is asking. I read it that it is only your Architect. Thus a reasoned report by a Civil Engineer should suffice and have the credibility the architect requires. You could do a lot of the prep yourself and present it, because you have the local knowledge and the desire to prove it, and thus minimise the fee. The reports of neighbours can help, as can checking other nearby planning applications. Your own observations will be useful, as you have had this property for a while and some major rain. The Engineer can do tech stuff like the topography, geology. Being appropriately skilled and qualified, that should satisfy the architect and later the planners And bco. Plus, you could get an upgraded design against any residual risk If necessary. If the planners were to require an EA computer modelling then you have a problem. It's stupidly expensive and designed for major events, not your project.

We will be doing this. The plan is to fix horizontal battens into the 'crowns' of the container walls. For this there are self-drill, self tapping screws from your nearest fixings merchant ( better a specialist than an a general merchant with screw in the title?) These will easily drill through the 1mm steel. Onto that goes horizontal timber cladding, and you can choose hit and miss, tongue and groove or any other. Our container is single skin so the screw points will be exposed inside. Thus use the shortest screws that will suffice or put caps on them. If lined inside they disappear. The cladding will allow airflow for cooling and condensation avoidance. We did this once as sports stores, for aesthetic improvement (planning) only. It will still get silly hot and cold. Roof? Not so easy. I haven't thought it through yet. Be sure to raise it off the ground.

I once told an Architect that a project would cost much more than the guideline he was giving the client. He said " the client always finds more money". I declined further involvement and told the client. They later invited me to the finished project and wouldn't talk about the cost, but I think it was shockingly more. I did build for another client with him as Architect. He asked for changes that were very expensive. I gave an estimate but he wanted it free of charge, because it would look better (in his portfolio). Our client agreed it was unaffordable and we did it the less functional way that met the budget. I should emphasise that both projects were very far from standard and were 'design and build'. The Architect could not work to any budget, perhaps had no idea of costs, but prob didn't care as long as he got his fee. Of course they are not all like that, but it's common.

That's the issue. The fitter who calls themselves an engineer didn't study until their mid twenties (or later) before being allowed loose on washing machines. They can earn from age 18 or so. 10% more earning time. My business PI insurance was 20k pa.... (then add contractors and emoloyers risk ) which rather eats into the funds too. Tomorrow I'm going to a construction exhibition/ talks. A day of my life that can't be charged for, but which may benefit my knowledge / benefit clients BH . Last year the main thing I learnt was that screw pile suppliers didn't understand their product or Engineering, and didn't know that they didn't know it, but were good at marketing.

But essential if it gets legal or the BC requires it. That could be Architect , SE, QS according to the context. But if the drawings and spec are clear then it's easy. Is it built as drawing? Fees. If you take a cheap price for the architecture bit, then it is very likely that you get a simple and vague design, that requires further info from others. But it might be plenty if the house is simple and standard. For the structure. If you go for a very cheap design quote then you may get a conservative design, whereas another few hours of thought and analysis would more than pay for itself. Or someone specifies a kit, and again you pay in other ways. BUT sometimes consultants are simply very good at what they do, so it's easy and good value. Project management is where the self builder can gain, if they have the knowledge and personnel skills. After the day job simply spend another 5 hours a day for 18 months and you will save s fortune.... ie you use a cheaper builder, buy the materials yourself, and do the qc. But if things go wrong it's ALL up to you. Re choice of BCO. In Scotland there is only the LA. In England I would use the LA for a routine house, and only that. Private BC for anything out of the ordinary.

Can you reach the top without your box to stand on?

The arrangement suggests that 2 pipes flow from the right, and merge on your side of the fence. Then it heads off, under or very close to the house on the left. Is your house on the left? Is that correct?

It's worth trying several merchant. A national brand or two, a local chain or two and any independents. Some will regard a big order as a sale, and add a margin. Others will give some discount on the advertised price If the order happens to be close to a whole pallet then this matters more, as they don't have to double handle or manhandle the boards. Talk to the manager or salesperson though. They might also have alternatives. Shockingly I once got concrete blocks (half a lorry load) cheapest from b and q. They came on a Travis P lorry. The TP prices from 2 depots were very different and both much higher.

I've googled solar reflective paint. It appears to be a standard product, and easy to apply.

Not if the tiles are loose laid. They might displace in a gale but that would avoid the grid being lifted. White grit might be better than pebbles and could be stuck down. Roofing felt used to be protected by grit. It was there to reduce abrasion but also caught the heat.

Roof tiles are good absorbers of heat, then releasing it overnight, esp as air gets in and around them. In my experience a tiled but uninsulated roof lets in less heat than a modestly insulated ( previous regulations) metal roof. A galvanised or light colored metal roof reflects a large proportion of the sun's heat. I'm sure it's still possible to get reflective flat roof coating, whether white or silvered. I used to use a bitumen paint product with aluminium filings in it. This was to coat inside galvanised gutters. The aluminium rose to the top leaving it as shiny as before. Perhaps this could be applied to a flat roof. I've no idea where to find this now.

Ok. No ufh makes it much easier. But getting a good finish is the issue.

what is the floor construction?

Your logic for this would be of interest. Are you putting insulation onto sub-base or a screed? Reinforced slab? Where does the piping go? My answer: Because it is tricky to get it flat and smooth at a robust stage of the project. Also, most people seem to have overdesigned slabs IMHO. for me, Sub-base, 100 - 150 slab, light or no mesh , pir, pipes, screed. That gives us a good hard working surface, then plumbing and screed in controlled circumstances.

20 really isn't hot. Dress differently, close blinds or curtains. In the Mediterranean, people cope with much higher than that. Commercial buildings in spain are not permitted to use cooling until 27°C. I think we can adjust too. I think I took this pic in a bank.

I've just stuffed rockwool into a plastic bag and up the chimney for the opposite effect, to coincide with the oil and rad central hating being fired up. I've been up at the chimney pot in the past, and the amount of hot air flying up it is shocking. I had one of those chimney umbrellas you may have seen at exhibitions, but lit a fire and it was gone. I should point out that this house is very draughty. But you need control, not just a hole to outside.

Compriband is stunning stuff, and many a reservoir, bridge, big building has it in crucial locations. It has a dimension memory and expands with force to fill a gap, and won't fail in sunlight. I suspect cheaper products, and very much cheaper products, are often substituted in domestic work.

Minuses It costs more / the headroom may be significant / it takes longer to heat up if it has been off. Pluses, it allows for more certainty of thickness on an uneven layer of PIR (which seems pretty much the standard), It will hold and release heat after the supply is off. The heat store principle may allow the exploitation of cheaper power from solar, or overnight rates. But it seems that, in a new house with ashp and ufh most people will turn the system on and leave it on. Me? I'd go for 60mm on an accurate insulated layer. Your average builder may prefer to spend your money on thicker screed to overcome their tolerances.

Can you either explain or point me to a reliable source of information, even a reliable manufacturer's page, of what are silicon, mastic, CT1, etc chemically,/ property-wise and their uses and abuses. I mean in general. I admit to saying silicone as a generic term and I should know more about it. When I replace the blackening and failing shower base seal, fill failed gaps between old weatherboard and aluminium windows and so on, it seems I shouldn't be grabbing any old tube form my stores. Would a good starting point be to only buy big branded stuff and select from their range?

The attached is from 'Building' Magazine this week. It ties in to some recent discussion about power where and when it is needed, and seems knowledgeable and well written to me. So the solution is obvious... no I'll let you read it first.

At least the foundations along with the house. Maybe the drains too as it part of a single, and more efficient, process. It would also reduce the stress and mess of starting again.