saveasteading

It isn't generally realised that the sewage charge is usually based on mains water used, and about doubles the cost. Harvested water goes free! If you can send your rainwater to soakaway then you should be able to get a discount .

Photographs and more photographs of the trench, in detail and in context. Not for here but to prove it was started.

In the words of Sherlock Holmes and ProDave When you have eliminated all which is impossible then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." I'd suggest airing the place until it is naturally dry then see if that is sorted. Might just be a wet slab from the building works. What floor surface was there before?

So 2 minutes at 17 litres is 34 litres or 1/3 of a day's recommended amount. A good shower head should use far less water to good effect. Therefore I would say to try the lower setting first. Water costs about 3p / litre I think, allowing for supply and disposal.

More info needed. The wet floor is an original floor, but has only recently shown damp? Was this area under kitchen units? What is on the other side of the wall? New or original? Is it dry on the other side? How far does the damp extend?

But 97% of my work was in England, and I don't think I ever had a window to do in Scotland. I have no idea if that is relevant though! I may look up ' check reveal' later.

Anyway the hole is dug. Prune all the roots off tight to the face so they are not in the concrete. Even the tiniest ones. If the bco says to also wrap the sides in polythene, then agree.

I suppose I'm saying that the drawings aren't always clear (or exist at all) and the construction may be partial. But I'm not a glazier and always used the one we knew and trusted....I have met others I wouldn't.

My easy but unscientific test is a j cloth over the grille. If it sticks it is very powerful. If not try a tissue.. if that doesn't stay put then there is a problem.

£30 or £40 for simple plastic ones. Then jumps to hundreds.

Too may ifs for me. I am increasing my wild area.

Grass grows without much help or chemicals. If it is bare then i say just water it and wait. Perhaps a few seeds to make sure. Turf has been sliced with the minimum of soil and lots of root damage, and may be slow to penetrate harder areas of ground.

They snip each blade between rotor and fixed blade, leaving a neat end. Rotary rips the ends off. Whether that is stress i can't say. Only rotary will deal with long or irregular grass.

Remeber you will need insulation and fire protection between the garage and the new room above.

For building control approval of anything at all, you just have to convince the bco that it is fit for purpose. A certificate can help towards that. I am wary of any additional coating. If this was necessary then it should be part of the product. Similar to being offered an extra coating to a new car or sofa... if it needed it, they would do it at the factory. Probably a very big markup. So find a product that doesn't need it.

Ouch. That is expensive drainage at £500/m. Did nobody look in the adjacent manholes before starting? A very good example to the OP of the unexpected. If you did the same again you would know so much more, and thus there is generally a cost to being a first timer.

None, zero, zilch. If you have one it fills. If you don't have one there is very little waste. Doesn't apply to demo and rip-outs of course. Allow cash for buying equipment instead of hiring. Then in theory you can sell it again. But do you, or is that lovely dewalt stuff too good to part with? So allow the cash anyway.

The people who do drywall only do drywall....every day. Stud and board and walk away. Same next day. 1000s of screws. I noticed they go through a lot of posi heads, so that must be significant, somehow.

I'm not so sure. With research and persistence an individual can often get similar prices.

I'll pm rather than hijack the chains discussion.

Never seen that. Spreads the load, less likely to break.

To which add Floella's "I love you all" speech? This is a potential fork in the discussion : sorry.

If you aim the screw as near to the web as possible, it won't deflect much. I've had loads of the stuff fitted and nobody ever moaned about this as a problem, so I guess it is just practice. I tried it and had the same issue as you.

Lots of good advice here. I will just add: Don't be disheartened that it is complex. It is a unique project. But do remember that almost everyone will say it was harder than they expected and cost more. Always allow contingency. Firstly for straight omission errors, secondly for surprises and problems. 10%. For the cheapest price stick to a proven design. No need to start from scratch. Nothing trendy: cavity wall, or timber frame to an off-the-shelf design. The costs you show are, as others say, tight. Weather. It will affect the job at some stage. Whatever timescale you have in mind, add at least 6 months. Don't expect to make money. Do expect much higher quality than the mass developers. Keep reading.

Mostly day release, but taught by who, I hate to think. Or a relevant degree. Then more training, by who......ditto Every aspect of construction, and they cannot be taught everything. Hence lesson one should be.....don't dabble, you don't know as as much as you think. May i suggest perforated pipe with membrane surround. It is cheap and easy, and acts as a soakaway for drizzle, with only big downpours reaching your pond. Unless the pond needs constant topping up, in which case don't.