saveasteading

From memory...it is a 23m circle, or a bellmouth equivalent... huge. In any case, artic drivers don't like sites and may still decline to enter.

Sometimes you can worry too much. This stuff happens in what is a very complex 3d assembly. The heat loss through 2m2 or so of dormer with slightly reduced insulation, could be regained more easily in a simpler area of the building. Or replace the mineral wool with pir. I wouldn't go checking dew points here...

And now it is encased in screed. Its OK. My main concern is that the plumber allowed it...an insufficiently skilled oppo used to lay it, then no inspection. And a lack of concern when informed. If undetected, it would have been like a valve almost turned off. I checked the whole layout, ( i am hardbittten)whereas our family on site used to assume that all contractors were skilled and cared. Especially the nice ones. No longer.

The pipe was really hard not like a garden hose. Although I guess it was pressurised. I did the reforming with the vice grips myself as nobody else had confidence to do so. I was surprised how well it went back to shape, and with no signs of damage This photo was of a twist through incompetence I think. The rest was better and could be walked on. Should we be concerned? Presumably the choice of pipe is fit for purpose, but not the best.

Yes, a metal box that will shed the rain, and a plastic storage box next to it for parcels....this must have a lid that will shed water, and drain holes. You will find that drivers will happily drop a packet into a box full of water, A nice address sign next to it may help....a bit.

The third division staff sent by the plumber, who's performance otherwise has been v good. It changes the relationship from total trust to a level of doubt.

Found a pic. Obv would have restricted the flow. The screed was next day, I found this, and another like it. the plumber wasn't interested in coming out to help. It straughtened nicely* and I trust this more than a splice. The ufh has run for about 3 solid days subsequently so seems OK. * removed the clips and eased it to a smooth curve. Then crimped the dent back to tube shape . Eased the curve some more then clipped it down.

Our plumber did this. With his permission we removed the kink with vice grips and eased the pipe hack to a proper curve..

The holes on the side are where rocks have neen pulled out. And to the bottom they have voids beneatg. The ground is infill which is normal enough but not suitable for a foundation.

My contractor brain is always reducing costs while my SE brain maintains quality. I shouldn't give all the secrets away.

Have you thought about fibre additive instead of steel reinforcing mesh? It will save you a fair amount of money and hassle. Add £30 for it in the mix and deduct the steel and spacers.

I looked into it once, and it involved rather a lot of admin with a surveyor identifying the building at the works before signing off. Was going to be expensive and delaying. I'm sitting doing nothing, so looked up mbc. Assuming I've got the right one, they are worth £1M over 3 companies owned by rhe md.. I'd like to think that a contract was direct with the main company. A much younger company and smaller setup than I had assumed.

Quite so. I was just thinking, what if your sub base has tamped down 10mm high. You might have a lot of concrete for your gnome moulds.

If you haven't done so, put either a long timber and level across various angles and measure down. OR a very tight line. And average. 0.4m3 is quite a lot of spare. But yes better too much than too little.

Want to check your sums on here? It's easy of course l x w x d Actual d, at thd shutters. BUT it is common to have a dip or hump in the middle.

Love the customised rake float. Dpm, then another progress pic please for your 50 "clerks of works" on here.

Have you decided where any surplus and the washout slops are going? As a last resort, leave it in the barrow.

As long as this is designed with smaller aggregate and a plasticiser to increase flow, then ok. Absolutely do not add water or allow anyone else to do so. Extra water reduces strength and increases shrinkage cracking...whatever anyone else argues.

That is the point surely. When other fillers harden and crack, this stays as a seal. We used to use a very expensive mastic tape on steel cladding laps. Doing an extension after 10 years it was still sticky, moving with the building and keeping it air and water tight.

Even then , I have seen small print that allows them to change the backing from woven (and open) to a foam sheet.

Usually printed on a cement bag.

A very heavy piece, or it will just bend. I think SE should be telling you this.eg what thickness of plate and what weld. Good to get an answer though.

The t and g of the laminate doesn't seem to be spreading the load far enough . Can you place furniture leg cups under the feet? As an immediate remedy, any piece of timber say 15cm x 10cm or more will possibly sort it. Especially if if sits on more than one floor plank.

And raw timber is something anyone can get at much the same price as the manufacturers. By default there is markup at the factory. And then get some more quickly if necessary. Our stick build materials were from the local bm. Ordered as a schedule for delivery over a few weeks. Paid by credit card per delivery. Nobody was at risk. Bm lost a few% in commission but had immediate payment and no risk.

stopping up the flue will create the next ledge for water to reach then spread. perhaps needs a vent. Having said that, i have a chimney that i have stuffed with rockwool in a plastic bag. it stops most of the heat loss, but I'm sure still allows some air past. About once a year it gets wet from heavy vertical rain and dribbles onto the hearth for a few days. Low tech but working. previously there was damp which simply required all flashings to be changed whether hey looked sound or not. That worked so what it tells me is that my inspections of lead and flaunchings were not spotting the one or 2 points of entr. Good luck.