saveasteading

,

Yes. Ask locals and builders what they did, but as a starting point. Your house presumably isn't on piles so probably the exension shouldn't be either. Don't assume that the SE knows the costs of things.

The rain lands there now, so where does it go? It is simply wrong to connect rainwater to a foul drain. It should not have Neen suggested and should not be considered. What size is the new roof? As you say, test the existing rainwater downpipe to manhole runs. Get drain trace powder from a bm. It shines fluore ent so is easy to see. Whatever you do don't mix brown drain trace powder into someone's jar of instant coffee for a laugh.

I was once unreasonably annoyed when my business won a sustainability award for saving tons of carbon through efficient design, but had to share it with a hotel that was using coffee grounds as mulching...

Yes they say that. I do it but won't swear it helped. Ash is better. But it is good compost so do it. The office will be quoting this as a big effort in saving the planet. I hope they take the coffee out for you. Where do the capsules then go?

We also used a screed company from Aberlour. (An hour's drive). I was impressed with his work and in chat it turns out he is a general builder most of the time. He can turn his accents from Doric (look it up) to gentle Received Highland English as necessary.

Lesson one.

Welcome. Aberlour is indeed lovely. The very wide high street and the old fashioned shops plus the tourist ones. Well placed for whisky and shortbread. I know this because we looked at 2 plots nearby but walked away due to location and water. I'm happy to say more if that sounds like yours, but privately. Our 3t digger was hired from Aberlour. If that is your real name, then fine but most of use an alias just in case it helps us be open in discussion.. You will get lots of advice but reading ilder discussion can be a good start, especially for foreseeing issues. Do you have a plot? With planning permission?

Massive piles of garden and food waste generate huge temperatures that break up bones even. But plastic linings are bad .

I had a client spend tens of thousands on a flood map to prove a point. He couldn't.

Bes,tif there is a root ball, to take them out.

Yes that is better. It is essential for a road or path ot essential jn a shed.. Just make sure some long stones haven't wriggled throuh a 10mm sieve. I have used pea gravel as tp up in my greenhouse house and it is OK

I kept my grids above ground level. So in your case 100 hardcore to GL then grids.

I seem to remember that the grinding cost as much as the slab. But then so does fancy tiling.

Marsh Industries are delivered direct from the factory, on a trailer and the driver can manhandle it off, tho welcomes help. 4 of us then trundled it out of the way. Into the hole is by digger of course usss you ramp it down.

Saw the trunk off and wrap some polythene up the face to keep out small roots. your choice stone or concrete base.

If not, it falls apart in a year or so where exposed to daylight. It should be standard but who knows when it is bought unbranded online?

So damage must be avoided. Lots of planks and a lecture will sort that. Plus you watching the pipes stay put. 7.5m3 of concrete is 150 barrowloads. Gulp. But I've seen it often enough. Doable with 3 or 4 barrows and 3 or 4 strong and willing workers. The lorry will be on site throughout, so they will need to know to not schedule another delivery, and they charge a lot after 30 minutes. 3 hours? That may be too long for the concrete to be mixing and ' going off'. Ask the supplier. Maybe better 2 x small loads. If there are doors to barrow through, then protect them thoroughly. If your contractor is happy then you just have to worry about damage.

I've had many thousands of m2 of slab done. Only one client wanted it sprinkled with minerals before final polish. He was happy but I wasn't greatly impressed. Then, complexity and cost wise, I think comes the option to grind the top off again, exposing shiny polished stones, or glass. I think that can look OK but I'd like to hear any more. Saw this done once for ultra-flat purposes with normal stone. I assume it needs pretty stones really. Expensive but maybe not much more than fancy tiling? Then there are fancy glass inlay toppings like mosaics. Shopping centre style. People I know who fancied it have all changed their minds. Probably re cost. So perhaps there are different interpretations of 'polished'. I'd be very pleased to hear more on the pros and cons, and costs.

Area and depth? Plain screed or with ufh and/ or mesh? With enough barrows, strong workers and planks it is perfectly OK.

I don't know microcement products at all so I defer. I'm only referring to concrete as laid in one pour, then polished after a few hours, as it nearly always has marks and wobbles in it, even cracks. So that's what I wouldn't want as my finished floor.

That. I think you need to look at reviews. Be sure that it is UV resistant.

Looks OK. Yes must be fixed down. I have seen a very heavy shed moved sideways by fairly normal winds. Doesn't need much fixing hence screws into slabs should do. Or maybe replacing the gravel infill with concrete locally will do.

Depends on cost which I haven't checked, but yes you could upgrade ti this. If it is expensive then I would probably use it as the upper layer and only nearer the perimeter. Not much heat gets lost to earth when distant from the outside walls, and the insulation nearest the screed has mure effect than the deeper levels. One thing before committing to a thinner screed. How level is the slab? You don't want a nominally 50mm screed that thins to less than that in some areas. A technically perfect slab can be up and down quite a lot.