DeeJunFan

What sort of Washing powder do you use? There can be a problem with some Biological washing powders and the affect they have on the bacteria in the treatment plant. May not be your issue but its something to be mindful of.

Only 1 immersion on the tank at the minute. And it will be connected the an immersun type device so i'm not sure if that affects it being on a timer? Why were you advised not to use the water heater?

I dont mind the hot water having the priority as i'm looking at doing the following. UFH will be able to call for heat at any time once called by the room stats. Hot water will be heated a good portion of the time by the PV (I hope) heating time clock will turn on hot water at say 4pm (as we shower in the evening) and if the tank is not satisfied by the PV then the ASHP will start to pump at the higher temp to the tank. I'm still unsure of the details to be honest. I dont know how long it would take the heat pump to heat the Cylinder once its been switched on so may need to start the heating cycle earlier. I'm not sure if it will leave us with cold points in terms of heating if the Hot water is going to be on for 3-4 hours during the afternoon evening and the house cools down. I'm not sure if it would be possible to add some logic to the immersion that if the hot water isn't at temp by say 7pm then the immersion turns on? Or would i be better to just buy an in-line heater similar to @JSHarris and ensure that way that We always have DHW? Thanks Damian

I tested mine at 3 bar for about 3/4 weeks before screed pour. 1 manifold lost pressure as there was a very small drip from the pressure gauge connection, noticed that after about 2 days. Once that was tightened and refilled all was steady. When the screed was poured the pressure went up to about 4.5 bar and held there steady for another few weeks without issue.

I have these connections available. Not photos but taken from the manual. The PSU control box looks like this . Then Inside the Heat Pump casing there are connections like this.

Thanks I'll get some pictures tomorrow. I seem to have the same connections as you as in the picture above. As and Bs Then in the grey control box i have the 24 v PSU with the 4 connectors either side. Will get the photos up.

@PeterW Just looking at your Schematic and I'm wondering were the contacts circled 9-12 are? I can see the Live Neutral and Earth then A1,2,3,4 B 1,2,3,4 but dont see where the other contacts you refer to are? Any ideas, i'm mainly concerned about how to set the program for the different temperature levels. Say 35 for the UFH and 45 for the DHW. Any pointers you can give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Damian

Hi Guys, My IVT didnt' come with a pipe stat and i'm wondering is there any particular sort needed for installation? Also I'm trying to figure out how to set the program on this. I was looking to get the digital controller on Ebay but they appear to be no longer available. Basically i want to be able to have Heating running at say 25 degrees and Hot water running at 42 degrees? Any help much appreciated. Thanks Damian

I'm the same . Anything with Fur, nuts (tree,ground and peanuts), Pollen (tree & grass), fish (White and Shellfish), Cucumber, melon, kiwi, soy & eggs I had an issue with Gluten but a dietitian had me do a reset phase. Off everything Wheat, milk & cheese for 6 months then begin to re-introduce and i'm ok with most things now. But all of my allergies are the same. Its hard to have a very healthy diet when all the healthy stuff is bad for you and all the unhealthy stuff is A OK. I'm currently starting to do some intermittent fasting as there are some good studies around it and i have a few friends who like it. Started with OMAD (one meal a day) so 23 hours fasting and 1 hour eating window. It was pretty easy to do and the energy levels were good. Then i went on a trip to India and as always happens i got the Deli Belly and a bad Flu so starting back on the OMAD next week hopefully when i'm totally recovered.

Thanks for that So you have given the buffer priority over the UVC, any particular reason for that? My setup is in a complete mess as i have to date had 4 different plumbers do work on site and there is no real coherent plan between the lot of them. One made a plan and the rest are trying to follow on with it in some way. At the moment I have a setup that basically uses the UFH loops as the buffer. we will have 3 zones. UFH (downstairs) UFH (Upstairs) and DHW cylinder. Only 1 of these zones will be getting heat at any one time and the DHW will have the preference. And the UFH zone preference i believe is going to be time managed so Downstairs in the morning/afternoon and upstairs in the evening.

@PeterW From Memory you went for the same one as me the Ecolane IVT from Ice Energy? Would you be able to share your pluming plan again? Thanks Damian

My self build health status. Fatter Balder Greyer More anxious Stressed Wrists Fooked Ankles Fooked Knees Fooked Faith in humanity severely damaged (apart from the people on here) Apart from that i'm in great shape.

@stratman90 Happy days i'm building in Mayobridge so only up the road. I have all my ducting covered up and hoping to start painting this weekend. Let me know if there is anything i can help with.

Hi Guys, Just wondering has anyone come across Epoxy tiles. We are looking a large format tile and have found a 1200 x 1200 tile that we like the look of and price wise is really good. They are Epoxy tiles with a depth of 6mm which makes my a bit anxious as regular ceramic or porcelain tiles are usually thicker than this. Does anyone have any experience with them? Also not sure how they are cut so would any local tilers be walking away from the job or likely to charge a large (unknown) Premium? Thanks Damian

What did you decide? I purchased my stuff from BPC and i got all the required ducting etc from them for first fix and ordered the unit itself at a later date as there were a number of options. I get calls from Beam every month or so even though i've told them i am going elsewhere and i have saved the reps number as something fitting to make sure i just ignore the calls from now on. Where in Newry are you based @stratman90 and i take it you are a guitar player? you in any bands?

Looks a handy enough job. Suppose the best way forward is just a good bit of prep getting the sheets and planks down and then being careful putting the gear on. having looked at that i might do the timber joints with a brush and let them go off for a day or two and then do over again when doing the entire wall. Thanks lads.

@Declan52 If going the sand/cement/water approach what ratios would i need. Obviously something quite wet that would roll on.

aye it think a roller is the job, whichever product is going up there. I'll see how it goes. Was hoping for Early enough in the new year, but unfortunately our plumbing team has been retired. One guy lost his wife and decided to retire and the other has been hit with a chronic pain disorder and isn't able to continue working. So i'm trying to sort a plumber out mid-job who is going to understand whats going on.

this one, Dont have an internal pic

The window side is where i would be having office space.

There is an attic window in the other side so wouldn't be as easy there.

Do you think it would be very sloppy? My main concern is getting the plasterboard wet underneath and spoiling the skimmed ceiling

so just for clarification its this wall i'm looking to make air-tight.

Spec says it can be roller applied so i might just go for that. At the moment in the loft i have attic trusses so have a room thats about 6m wide and about 14m long that i plan to use for office/playroom type space when the kids are older so i just want to get the bare block walls on the cable air-tight. I'm going to line this room with OSB and tape so just want to make the ends airtight.

I only have plasterboard on ceilings