DeeJunFan

Yes I think so. Any horror stories?

OK I will need to check how I'm fixed for that I bought anew ASHP on eBay about 2 months the ago and it said heating only so not sure if it does the higher Temps but it doesn't offer cooling. I know I could like you make it but I wouldn't have the capability to get into it. If the ASHP has a max temp not much more than 40 would I just go the previous route of plumbing it into the TS for UFH and have the cold after uplifted through the TS coil for the UVC? If the UVC was always getting where in at 40 then hopefully we wouldn't need a lot of direct electric to boost it up.

Hey I'm building in mayobridge at the minute just outside newry. Same kind of design as yourself. Square block built 2 storey house. Going the ASHP route. Just trying to finalise the design right now. Loads of good info here. Where are you based? Damian

I had no idea you could Plumb the ASHP to 2 different tanks. I take it there will be some kind of valve to switch the flow to the UVC once the temp of the ASHP is increased. I was planning the TS on first floor and the UVC in the attic so will have to see if that plan still looks OK without the bonus of getting heat from the back boiler.

@Nickfromwales So you would suggest get rid of the back boiler. Get rid of the In-line instant at the tank and go 300L TS fed from ASHP and 300L UVC pre-heated from the ASHP TS Coil and topped up by Solar PV/Immersion. Backup plan would be Direct Electric Immersion to top up temps.

ok, more confused again. When you say connecting the ashp to the DHW cylinder. I was thinking it would be connected. As in ASHP will heat the pre-heat (UFH) tank and cold water for the DHW tank will go throught the DHW tank to get pre-heated. Or would you suggest a direct feed from the ASHP to the DHW tank and run the ASHP in DHW mode? I was planning on keeping the ASHP at 40° output to keep COP high. can do 300L for both cylinders. (assuming UFH should be a TS and DHW shoule be a UVC) Hadn't figured on the pipe limitation from the Instant. Was planning on the unit similar to @JSHarris really just for ass coverage. Could always have the immersions on some sort of auto switch depending on tank temp.

so i'm back to being totally confused. Our plan as above was to have 2 seperate systems. UFH ASHP heating a 200/300L tank to 40° this would then be used for UFH and cold water uplift into the second DHW system DHW 500L TS/UVC that would have its cold input uplifted by ASHP. Heated by Immersion diverter during summer/shoulder months. Topped up by Direct-electric immersion. In winter months to be topped up by Stove with Back boiler. If back boiler was over heating the tank then the 500L tank could start to heat the UFH tank to make the best use out of the stove. Also be fitting a instant water heater on the hot water out to uplift temp if it drops below set point. I was pretty sure we could have worked out ok with that system. But if we do away with the back boiler then the plumbing simplifes somewhat so maybe that would be the best idea?? UFH ASHP heating a 200/300L tank to 40° this would then be used for UFH and cold water uplift into the second DHW system DHW 500L TS/UVC that would have its cold input uplifted by ASHP. Heated by Immersion diverter during summer/shoulder months. Topped up by Direct-electric immersion. In winter we would be relying on the direct electric immersion for DHW uplift from the ASHP tem. Also be fitting a instant water heater on the hot water out to uplift temp if it drops below set point. If we are going without the back boiler should we downsize the DHW tank to say 300L? so say run with a 200L tank for UFH and a 300L tank for DHW?? we are very close to starting on the first fix plumbing. 1st fix electrics starting this week so really need to make this decision! @Nickfromwales @JSHarris any sparks of genius for me?? Thanks guys! Damian

Current plan was as your mammoth plan above. 9kw ASHP for heating UFH - then also used from cold water uplift. PV with immersion divert & Stove (In winter) & Immersion Top up for hot water (summer) Our Heat recovery unit will also have pre & post heaters. D

Digging this bad boy up again. During a recent visit to the self build show. The stanley stove rep told my wife in no uncertain terms that we shouldn't get a stove with a back boiler if we will have a well insulated house with good air-tightness. I can understand the theory in that the stove will release too much heat to the room etc. But what are your thoughts on this? Should we go with boiler or no boiler?

Indeed, I suppose it depends how you intend to run your heating. If you use the ASHP to heat a large Store up to a particular temp you will be running your ASHP at night and then calling for heat from the store during the day. There are so many variables that its hard to know what is the best way to go.

Here is the document. Have a read and see which applies to you! D

What render did you use? K-Rend sent me a very good document about it i will fish it out and attach here. There are many different reasons, causes and appearances. Much more than i had thought. It may give you a good steer.

For me it will be the difference between 0.086 and 0.107. I was always of the mind to go 200mm PIR and 100mm Sand/Cement but my wife is concerned about the level of the screed and has always wanted a liquid screed. I had convinced her that it would be a bad idea because of the drying times and adhesion but those issues dont seem to be the same with the CemFloor so she wants us to go that route now. I need to just agree or find a compelling argument to the contrary. D

In NI this is the "Way" it would be very difficult to find a builder locally who would even consider doing anything differently. This is the same build up as i have used. We have 150mm concrete sub-floor, quinn lite blocks at the slab level and then we are currently debating to go either 200mm PIR with Sand/Cement screed or 250mm PIR and 50mm CemFloor screed.

Whats a garden?

Yeah 50mm was the depth the recommended. I got a quote from RTU also and they gave a price slightly over £14 p m/2 but they also had included in the quote that any additional screed used would be charged at around £260 per m/3 and the rep said that it was likely there may be some over run. The Cemfloor guy said they do a fixed price quote so they come out and survey and the price they give is the final price. I personally wouldn't go with the other liquid screed given the drying time and adhesion issues so its the Cemfloor or sand & cement for me. Still not 100% decided so i will ask a few tilers and a guy i know does Terazzo to see what they think.

For my wife its the self levelling appeal. She hates the though of anything being out of level. They quoted me roughly £15 per m/2 for the Cemfloor

If the turkey isn't in the oven my head will be!

Hasn't got anything on it yet. Have the windows in the rest of the house, not where i'm putting the stone. Still on the fence about what door to go with. Baskil dont seem able provide a composite door in the arch style so will have probably go elsewhere.

500 x 250mm Western Natural Roofers said there were a few not great ones in the pallets but i would say thats true for all kinds. I have a pallet left over and a good few slate and a half if you go for them.

I had got a brochure from them before the show and all looked good. And spoke to them at the show. They quoted roughly £15 p/m2 and said they would do a fixed price so no paying for an extra m3 of screed if they have mis-calculated. If all the things they say are true then it seems to have many of the benefits of the other liquid screeds but very few of the drawbacks. Email Cemfloor brochure.pdf

So it wont really matter how far away from the shower they are. If they get water in them at all they will need to be fully water proofed. Guy in the bathroom place was trying to advise us to go with Mosaics in the insets but i guess that would be the worst thing to do given the extra grout area. So tank, and large tile into bed of CT1 to fill all the gaps.

I was going by the plumber. So hopefully he can sort it out. Would be a balls of the valves were that big. I'll have to shop around. Yeah tank and tape was my thinking. I'll be sure to mention the lights. She will love that.

Thanks guys, I was hoping it was something simple enough to work around. Would anyone recommend the Aquaseal type products? Tanking paint for the wetrooms? Seems like something pretty simple to do at only around £20 for 5 litres, shouldn't be all that expensive to get a shower cubicle covered up. They also do a tape for corners that i could put around the insets. Then could go the CT1 approach @Nickfromwales talked about? SWMBO has her heart set on having the insets and i quite like the look of them. haven't measured the shower units as yet @Declan52 We are going to have the actual shower valve on the block wall. If you zoom in you can see the tracking. And then just pipe the mixed water to the shower head on the stud. So hoping we will be alright. Cheers Damian

So we are looking to have 2 insets similar to yours decky that will be about 500mm apart with shower head central above. Should we move them? We were also hoping to have one directly below the shower. We had this flash of genius around 1am one night and now the stud is built. This is the shower and larger one above the bath.