ProDave

First thing to check is on your WB9-RF when a zone calls for heat is the LED on the controller for that zone light up? If not the problem lies with the TF thermostat for that zone. If the LED is light up, the RF thermostat is working, next check is the manifold pump running? Is the 2 port valve for the UFH energised? Report back.

Fit another door frame inside the one that is there? Will the architrave cover both if you do that? Do NOT use the same joiner again. I would be asking why HE made a unilateral decision to fit non standard frames thus forcing you to buy non standard doors. and suggesting the easiest way to remedy HIS mistake is for him to come and convert them to standard size at his expense. 2040 is the tallest "normal size" That is what we have from XL Joinery, very good doors. It sounds to me like he did not think, he fitted door frames to fit the structural opening which is usually over sized, rather than fitting standard sized door frames with appropriate packing to fit the opening.

I suspect the only way is a steel structure hidden behind the stringers to give the strength. To me is seems a lot of extra work to avoid one newel post going down to the ground at that corner.

Post some pictures of your wiring centre and the UFH manifold and in particular did they install any 2 or 3 port motorised valves when fitting the system?

What type of render? That air brick needs cleaning off and the holes unblocking.

You can buy a complete air blower pump for not a huge amount, this one seems common in treatment plants https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296023440964 A new SWA cable will sort out your electrical woes, even laid on the surface until you can bury it. BUT until you solve the drainage field issue, it will continue to flood, and when it floods is when the raw sewage can float over the normal weir separating input and output. That is going to cost you money as you basically have to dig up a large area of land and re lay a proper drainage field separate to rainwater soakaway. Sorry to say you are picking up the fallout from the original builder that did not do it properly. It there a watercourse nearby? If there is seeking permission to discharge to that would be a much better solution. The people advising to change for a mechanical treatment plant are simply not understanding that the fundamental problem you have is a drainage field that cannot cope so it floods. Changing for a mechanical tank (not recommended) would only solve your problem if the drainage field was re laid properly as well. How old is the house? Did it come with any form of 10 year warranty? Is there a legal agreement to force the other house to share costs?

I say you definitely need a plumber to sort this out for you, you don't want to be making a mistake and connecting water to the boiler gas supply, or worse, gas to the cold taps. There is probably a gas cooker as well. Following the pipe from that should confirm which is gas. If the WM tap is the gas pipe then the previous "plumber" is a cowboy.

So just what is next doors conservatory sitting on? It looks like the remains of a dry stone wall or some rubble just piled up. Honestly that should have been sorted right at the start before you even laid your foundations. My suggestion is build some formwork and pour a concrete slab against all that rubble to stabilise it, but whatever you do it needs some prefessional input. Who's vent pipe and AAV is that? It will become inaccessible.

Or rather than argue the case, just pen a letter saying that you are self building and intend to live there for a very minimum of 3 years. It sounds like by sending this letter there will be no mention of CIL and all the hoops you have to go through for self builder exemption and none of the sully worry that if you do some "work" before the exemption is in place of having to pay the CIL.

A simple tap won't reduce the pressure, you need a pressure reducing valve for that.

Seeing your pipes makes me shudder. It is unbelievable where static caravan manufacturers source such horrible looking pipe fittings. The reason I shudder, on the first build I connected the water, and then one by one over the next few days each of those cheap and nasty plastic fittings burst as they could not stand our high water pressure. That van I completely re plumbed with all internal above floor pipes. If you last picture is the water connection your first task is find a fitting to join onto that as they have not even left you the nut. So more likely replace that tee. Bit it should be easy to check where the pipe going up through the floor comes out above and what it connects to. It is equally possible that is another drain off point. Your first picture also has a similar connector, also missing it's nut. You would not normally have two separate cold water feeds which makes me certain one is another drain off point. The waste water as well as the small pipe for sink drains you will have the larger pipe for the WC waste. A little waste water plumbing is needed here. If that is your gas connector, I would get a gas safe engineer to check it out. It looks like they had a hose from that to a regulator on a single bottle. The washing machine tap won't be gas that could well be the water in, though it would be unconventional. Do you know a friendly plumber, whoever disconnected it from the last site had no regard to anyone wanting to re connect it.

That spec appears to be the normal trickle vents and individual extract rates for a house without mvhr. Once you choose mvhr all those trickle vents and individual room extract rates do not apply and you design the mvhr to a different set of constant flow rates that are also listed in building regs.

Insulating between and under the concrete beams will reduce heat directly down into the garage but you will still have the beam ends onto the cold garage wall While I like UFH, I think this is a lot of work just to not have a radiator on the wall in the bedroom.

The other neat thing there in the last picture is a roof tile with a "tunnel" built in to allow the satellite cable to enter the roof space. Would work equally well for solar PV cables. There are a few houses around here that seem to have a roof ladder permanently left on the roof to get up to a chimney.

What makes you say that? Putting boards as you show is how 99.99% of lofts are boarded. Yes the ceiling joists are skinny which is why you need to be careful how much load you put on them, but they are normally okay to walk on and store light stuff on. It is when you are doing a full loft conversion you have to beef them up or fit new joists.

This is where I disagree with the details of the green belt planning law as written. Of course we don't want to cover the green belt with houses, but to deny this is just mad. Here in the Highlands the policy is general presumption against building but with sensible exemptions, one being infilling a plot between existing houses. Perhaps wait a while wile the Labour planning reforms come into force which they say will make it easier to build on green belt land. Plots like this should surely be the type of thing that should be allowed that won't destroy the green belt. If you are a shrewd player and not risk averse, perhaps buy it now but wait for the planning law changes before proceeding. It all depends how the plot is priced.

I doubt you will find a "handbook" It is a case of follow each pipe to where they end up. But also consider doing a lot of re plumbing. They are originally designed for summer use and little thought was given to freezing pipes, hence the drain valves to empty all the water in winter. If you want to use it all year consider a complete re plumb with all pipes inside not under. The gas typically connects to an automatic changeover valve and 2 hoses for 2 cylinders.

There is usually a reason why a property is sold at auction rather than a normal agent.

My low opinion of MCS was confirmed when a recent post here showed a quote for an ASHP and water tank etc for about £8150 So if that is the true cost, why are BUS grant quotes with the £7500 grant deducted not routinely coming in sub £1000 to the customer?

Building regs could be tightened to get close to passive house without needing any input from MCS (I am beginning to detest MCS) but the mass market builders would have to learn how to build properly.

What actual sizes are your door frames? WHO specified them the size they are?

So that is ONLY heating DHW in your original plot, not space heating? If that is so you must be using a lot of hot water or it is losing heat from the tank and regularly topping up?

For the wanting "cool bedrooms" this is where no heating at all upstairs works. Some heat will leak upstairs but it is easy to keep a bedroom at 18 degrees with the downstairs at 20. Manage the heat flow upstairs by keeping bedroom doors closed when you don't want any more heat going up.

Our ASHP is on the south facing wall, almost by accident as that is the best place for it at the back of the house. But in winter on a cold still sunny day, the front of the house can retain frost all day due to no sun and little air movement, while the back of the house is frost free and can actually feel warm in the sun. I refuse to believe the ASHP is not better off there than on the north frosty side of the house. Re "plant rooms" I don't have one. What was supposed to be the plant room is now my office / workshop. It has the MVHR unit and some plumbing controls and a pump. That is it. the hot water tank got moved out to a far more sensible central location to optimise short hot water pipe runs to the points of use, that is in a cupboard in the corner of the spare bedroom. Consumer unit is in the utility room. on the wall. all network and AV stuff in the cupboard under the stairs. If space is tight, I recommend distributed services like that sited in the best place for each, rather than one plant room full of stuff which (from what I have seen) often puts things like hot water tanks of far from optimum places.

Then he will have 2 short levels. Win win.