ProDave

That YT video shows exactly what I was trying to describe to measure and work out the spacing. What you you mean by Louvres? that makes no sense to me in the context of stair spindles.

That will likely leave an odd gap at one end. Work out the minimum No of spindles you need to get 99mm or less gap. Put all the spindles together at one end. Measure the total gap. Divide by No of spindles plus 1. Cut two spacer blocks (one for top and one for bottom) It gets even more fun if you have a half landing and a returning stair of a different length.......

Up here it is every 5 years or change of tenancy. You could be in the ludicrous position of re doing one after the tenant has been in 5 years, then they leave the next week so you have to do it again for the next tenant (I would just change the date ) BUT at the moment, due to Covid-19 and restrictions on work and movement, I believe all statutory checks have been suspended / extended so check the exact rules, that will probably give you the grace you need and get it done after this tenant has eventually moved on

Lay wooden floor. Build up tiled area with self leveling compund Tile. Or choose some thicker tiles?

I got a dead level transition. 7 The wooden floor went down first, height set to match door thresholds. Tiles went down later with floor make up worked out for a level transition.

TIP (from an electricians point of view) Where does the FF plug in? Make the plug accessible, e.g under the unit behind the kick board, or in an adjacent cupboard. If this ever becomes a rental property and the electrician comes along to PAT test the build in FF he will curse you if the plug is behind the FF. He will thank you for your foresight if the plug is under the unit behind the kick board. He will thank you even more if there is a note somewhere saying where it is so he does not have to go searching.

Thankfully not. We would have killed each other by now! that’s a pity , you haven’t truly experienced a self build until you’ve roughed it in a caravan for a while! And lived through the winter with the "beast from the east" and spent half an hour one night, in a blizard, lying on your back under the caravan thawing a frozen pipe with a hairdryer. Perhaps I am not selling the experience very well?

The issue you face is why I generally don't like "tape and fill" dry lining. You have a nice flat wall, with tapered edges so you can fill the joints flat, but then you have to put a bead on and kick out the corners. At least with a plaster skim the whole wall gets built out a few mm so you don't get the kick out at the corners. I did the reveals around my velux windows with tape and fill. I did NOT use a corner bead. I formed the edges with the fill. It was a tedious job, You had to do one edge, let it try. then file / sand off the excess and do the other edge. Wait for it to dry. Then improve both edges with another thin coat or 2. The result was a nice corner with no kick out, but a lot of work and a lot of time, mostly waiting for stuff to dry. And the corner so formed would not be as robust to knocks and bangs as a corner formed with a bead.

You might be able to do it under the units as a straight run, avoiding a tight bend round the corner.

Where does the waste pipe originate from? Usually it comes up out of the floor, so you have plenty of room to run the waste under the kitchen units.

I will be interested to see how you get on with those. My expectation, from all the plasterers I have seen, I you will spend ages clearing out all the muck that has got into the fitting, and then patching up the plastering around the edge of the fitting (based on a simple thing like making good a light switch back box after the spread has been)

Before every time for me. Means you can see from the screws where all the joists and noggins are, and you can be SURE once you have cut the hole you can reach the cable (and if there is a problem pop a board off and investigate. Then leave the cables coiled up just next to the hole so you can fish them out. If the spread grumbles, he will still get on and do it. Anything else, unless you are VERY careful and take LOTS of measurments, you risk drilling into a joist, or not finding a cable where you expect one.

We find 500mm out from the wall about right. That is also okay if you have wall cupboards.

Do you really need a screen? I have only done one house with a cinema room and a projector, and they got good results just projecting onto a nice flat white painted wall. It would seem to only be a requirement of you don't want a white wall? TIP from that job. TEST the 10 metre long hdmi cable that you bury up the wall and across the ceiling before the plasterboard goes on. Better still install two. the time to find it is a dud cable is not when you first plug the projector in. It was a mare to pull a new cable through.

All mine are like that. With the requirement to make them bright colours (some are pink) it can be hard finding any that are plain wood. Not many merchants stock them.

That's about it. I bought mine second hand from ebay for £120 and have had half that back already by "hiring" it to two locals. I still have the driveway to finish properly so will be keeping it for a while longer before I sell it. I might even turn a small profit when I eventually sell it.

What was the reason for battening the service void horizontally? What are the half dozen or so things that look like sprocket pullers on the floor being liquid screeded for?

Looking good.

No 1. Report the planning breaches to your council planning, particularly the brick outbuilding that was refused and the extension that does not conform to the approved dimensions. Appoint a solicitor to deal with the damage issues.

I wired one straw bale build many years ago, but there are loads of different ways of building with straw bales. Would be interesting to see how you did yours.

If this had been fitted by a window company, they would not have filled that gap with filler. instead the usual practice was to stick a strip of white upvc trip over the missing plaster. You may not like that and think it is a cheap detail, but it does work. I would look at doing similar though perhaps with something better than a bit of white upvc.

I can get a set of 4 "no name" toners for £26. It's just that I would begrudge £26 if it then turns out the printer is toast. Hence trying to understand the fault. I hate "fault finding by random substitution of parts" I went for a laser at last swap as inkjets had proven useless for occasional use. Fed up with half full but useless dried up cartridges. (oh for a dot matrix and an ink ribbon)

I came across this https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/LaserJet-Printing/Black-Line-printing-on-the-left-side-of-every-page/td-p/6591716 It is for a different printer but I thought I would try it. The result was a part printed test page which showed the fault. the toner was not "set" so I assume it had not yet been through the fuser thus eliminating that as being the fault. There are 4 toner cartridges in this printer. The line being printed is predominently black. Looking at all the toner cartridges, they all have a ring of black toner around the drum at one end, and they seem to all be connected by a "belt" that has that black line along one side. Does that get us any nearer? I have tried the "cleaning" routine several times but all that does is print a blank page apart from the black line down the side.

The bathroom is still not finished,. Unless I missed it, I don't recall the body dryer being comissioned?

My reliable (if quirky) HP CP1525N colour laser printer has started to play up. It's printing with a big black band down the left of the page. I have only had this one on an old monochrome laser printer and a new toner cartridge fixed it. But before I splash out on a set of 4 new toner cartridges for this I want to be sure that will fix the problem and it's not something else. It just started doing this one day. It does not get much use.