ProDave

Even I am not old enough to have ever installed any of that, and only seen it on an install once, and I had to rub my eyes, at first I thought the yellow had faded.

A full mvhr system has a central heat exchanger unit and from there it needs to supply fresh air in to all living rooms and bedrooms and extract stale air from kitchens, utility rooms, bathrooms and toilets. Your biggest challenge is going to be retro fitting this into a new build, where almost certainly you will have chipboard panel floors which are not exactly easy to take up. Your best hoe will be can you find a route for all the downstairs vent positions to get up into the loft, perhaps up via a cupboard or wardrobe for instance to minimise the amount of floors to take up. Is it a house that you built? If not then you won't even know much of the construction and what you might find in your way.

I am just coming to the end of a 5 year build doing a LOT of work myself, and the total cost including plot will be about £230K I estimate the market value about £250K. Had I not done 5 years of work, and just paid someone to do it all, I am certain the total cost would exceed market value. Houses are simply too cheap in Scotland. Prices will be higher where you are, but so will plot prices and probably labour.

It's simple physics. With electric resistance heating, if you put say 1kW of electrical power into it, you get 1kW of heat out. That 1kW has to go somewhere. So first of all measure accurately how much electrical power is going in. If it does not seem to be delivering the heat you expect you have to ask where is it all going? e.g is it a suspended floor and all the under floor insulation has fallen out and it's now heating the under floor space?

So 22 ohms in total you should be looking at just over 10A total with a power input of 2.3kW for the whole lot. Check the current actually going into each mat.

Hi and welcome. If you don't want to do much actual work yourself I think you would be looking at £300K to build that. Hopefully some of our Aberdeen area members can give a better idea if what things cost in that area. We are near completing our second build, 17 years after the first one, and costs are not far off double.

For services, forget dot and dab. Fix an airtight membrane to the wall with 25 by 50mm battens vertically every 400mm. Run all pipes and cables in that service void created by the battens then screw plasterboard to the battens.

I hope you are keeping the PV safely somewhere to re use?

Is that 88 ohms per mat, all 4 of them, or 88 ohms for all 4 connected in parallel? if 1.4kW of power is going into the floor then something must be getting warm somewhere, energy can;t just disappear. What is the power rating of the UFH supposed to be?

Sorry @Tom you are out of your depth. Do yourself a big favour and call an electrician, he will have it all sorted quickly and you will know it will all be safe. You do NOT want to be connecting a caravan to a TNCS earth, I doubt you know what earth system you have exported to the caravan at present. You should only fit the same make of replacement RCD, the input terminals are not all at the same height and not all makes would fit if you tried a different one, and the manufacturers instructions state only their components are to be used. But fault finding by random swapping of parts is unlikely to be quick or cost effective and in any event may just be a waste of time and money if the real problem is a wiring fault somewhere. But one last thing, you have tried the obvious of unplug EVERYTHING that is plugged into sockets in the caravan, the fault could well be a faulty appliance.

Nobody mentioned bumpers to me. I did wonder if they would want a handrail up the left hand side, closest to the house where the drop off is higher, but that only seems to be a requirement if the drop is greater than 600mm. The only comment they made if for completion they expect the detail at the bottom of the ramp to be correct, That part f the driveway is not finished yet and at the moment there is a bit of a step at the end of the rap, that has to be a level transition. Easy to fix.

I have a permanent wooden ramp created with concreted in posts, treated timber joists and wooden decking. The decking planks used on the sloping part are the non slip ones with a non slip material embeded in 2 of the grooves of each plank. BC seem to have accepted this.

A neutral - earth fault will result in some of the return current from any load travelling via earth, not neutral so it creates an imbalance between L and N and the RCD does it's job of tripping. So there will only be a return current and hence an imbalance when a load is turned on. No loads (all mcb's off) = no current flowing = no imbalance = no rcd trip.

This is where you really need the full kit of test equipment, at least insulation test and RCD test. You could try replacing the RCD if notI suspect you need an electrician.

One circuit at a time, remove the wires from the MCB AND remove the corresponding neutral wired from the neutral block top left. Take particular care to follow the lives back to identify the cable and identify the corresponding neutral. Neutrals look all jumbled up in the N block so not as straightforward as it could be. the first mcb, the 32A one, looks to be a red / black ring final with a later brown / blue spur added. Treat that as 2 circuits so try removing the 2 reds (and corresponding blacks) or try removing the brown and corresponding blue one at a time.

You need professional input to avoid you doing anything that resultsin the house sliding down into a big hole. Can you not repair the garage and use that, it will be by far your simplest form of off road parking. If it has been built properly it will have been built into the hillside with retaining walls. What is to the right of your garage? is it right on the boundary or is there scope to widen it by rebuilding the retaining wall further to the right?

Right, open up your consumer unit. If it follows the norm for these things there will be an RCD main switch and 3 mcb's. Disconnect the L AND the N from one of the circuits try resetting the RCD and see if the remaining 2 circuits works and does not trip the RCD. If it still trips re connect that one and dosconnect both L and N of the next circuit and try it. Hopefully you will result in 2 of the circuits connected and working and the fault will be on the third disconnected circuit.

I designed it and started to the 14th edition, I will complete to that standard......... EDIT: an exageration. 15th was the standard in force when I was a boy and 16th came in part way through my aprenticeship, and I doubt you are older than me. But i still don't recall red / white / blue being current.

Most likely one of the circuits has a neutral to earth fault so any of them drawing any current trips it. Unless you have some test equipment and have some knowledge you need an electrician to do some testing. If you want to narrow it down further and feel competent I can suggest some things to try.

Yes I had let the water pressure off, that's how I know there is still some pressure in the vessel as the water ran for a bit before stopping, though not 18 litres worth of water. I can only assume a faulty valve. To be honest it does not look like a "normal" schraeder valve, it looks to be a more chunky brass boss that it's made of. So there is some pressure in it but pushing the pin does not let any air out, so if I were asked to guess someone forgot to drill a hole in the assembly somewhere. i will commence battle with the plumbers merchant on Monday, they were not open today.

Not really, this is primarily a self build forum where we discuss all aspects of buildings and renovations. Nobody is going to demonise you for using a gas boiler because that is what works best. i have a particular concern that there are companies out there "selling" ASHP systems on the back of grants, and then sometimes installing something that is not up to the job, may not heat the house properly, or simply costs too much to run. All very well being "green" and accepting that doing so may cost you more money.

At our rental house, tenant has reported seeing water dripping through the tundish, so time to investigate 250L Telford unvented tank, the one with the expansion vessel fitted inside the top of the cylinder. i think it's an 18L expansion vessel. The expansion vessel was replaced in April 2020 because the previous one had rusted through. The new one is of the type where you can unscrew a flange on the bottom so in theory you can just replace the bladder if it has failed. It was all working fine in April. So I go armed with my pressure gauge and bicycle pump. Put gauge on vessel, reads 0. Put pump on vessel and try to pump, pump is pumping into a dead stop. Push on Schröder valve pin with a screwdriver, no air comes out. There is some charge in the vessel but I can neither read what it is or pump it up. What is going on. Obviously I will try the plumbers merchant where it came from, but although I have the date and price I paid in my accounts, I have lost the receipt, but i could probably track down a credit card statement showing the payment. But knowing how awkward some people can be I bet they say no receipt, no warranty. In the mean time I thought I would look up the cost of a replacement bladder. Can't find anyone listing one, tried searching for expansion vessel bladder and expansion vessel diaphragm, So is it just a myth that you can replace them and does this mean yet another replacement expansion vessel? Anyone experienced what appears to be a "stuck valve" on these?

And likewise I can show you a building plot with PP for £30K

How deep is the drain it will connect to at the house? that is the fixed point you have to work back from.

I think it would, but the trouble is, the pump is in the saniflow, so when it stops pumping, all the "sludge" is still in the pipe and will remain there until the next time it runs. What @joe90 is suggesting is to get all the uphill pumping done very locally from where it can then drain downhill in a conventional drain pipe with rodding access. If you laid a conventional drain at the minimum fall from the house towards the office, how close would it get before it comes out of the ground? If it would get quite close then that with a shorter pumped route from the saniflow might be a better option? If necessary raising the ground level along that hedge to get a conventional pipe closer but still "underground"