Visti

You DIY'd that didn't you? Thanks for the great feedback all! I think I'll be more strategic with how we build up our boards, with different specs for different segments of walls. I'll sit down tonight to plan it out and do pricings for the different options. Hopefully that'll give me a good acoustic performance Vs cost model to find a sweet spot! I think the most substantial change are the resilience bars which I wasn't considering before. I am very keen on those now and will be adding them in.

Our architect has recommended we double up on plasterboard to get a more solid feel, and improved acoustics. I've had recommendations to instead have a layer of OSB first then a layer of board. Both for the solidity, but also for affixing things directly to the wall without concern for noggins. This I very much like! Questions are: 1. Does that combo work well acoustically? 2. What thickness of OSB should be used? 9, 12, 15 or 18mm? Should it varry depending on what I plan to install into the wall. 3. Should it be OSB or Plywood? Mind there are hundreds of m2 to cover, so minor differences in price will rack up.

Waste is one of those areas where I think you'll struggle for them to take responsibility for it. You'll have to agree that up front. Any contract I've signed has made it my responsibility unfortunately. On my site any leftovers have been to the benefit/detriment of me. I've managed to get a lot free EPS and wood that way which has been useful, but some of the other smaller bits haven't. Where I have had success is where I've supplied and they've needlessly wasted material. That I have been able to recoup cost (see my roofing post; they paid for all the sheets they ruined). In your situation I'd recommend approaching it as a tit for tat for the delay. You've not got much more leverage other than payment, so negotiate before paying up

How about extractor hob? a closed system that uses carbon filters and doesnt need venting. No need to integrate and mess with the MVHR.

Haha, that would give Peter a heart attack!

If you're within 6 meters of a boundary you'll need to demonstrate a percentage of fire resistance for each elevation. That percentage area that needs to be resistant is dependent on the distance of each individual elevation, staring at 100% and reducing to zero past 6m. Masonry, brick and metals count as resistant off the bat, but wood is tricky. Check out diagram 22, p48 in the domestic B4 building regs for these percentages. If you're planning on cladding just the front and rear elevations you should be fine. If it is the sides of your building you're cladding then be careful as I know the plots are fairly close together around the Cresent. The costs I listed were for different treatments across my various elevations to try and save money where possible: £25/m² - Natural larch (£3.10/m) - Fire treatment - extra £25/m² (£3.60/m) - Painted - extra £25/m² (£3.50/m) The paint was more expensive than normal due to it having to work with the fire treated. P.s. just as well, I hadn't twigged in my last post that you had Premier too; they don't acknowledge any form of treatment on charred wood to make it fire resistant, even if you use HR Prof or similar solutions. The charring process seals the wood and makes it difficult to absorb the treatment. Also none of the BBA certs for the treatments have included charred wood in their tests, so again hard to prove it'd work.

You'd get the size of roof lights you want to fit the room. The rafters can be moved and doubled (or tripled) up on either side to accommodate them. Just make sure the TF manufacturer is happy to accommodate the change to the new structural opening size!

Big fan, but has it's problem's... Forbuilding regs, the fire proofing qualities don't count, so you'll have to treat it after the charring. Even then ours wouldn't accept it against B4 at all. The price is also very high. We were quoted about £80-120/m2. Quite dear indeed. Our pre-painted and treated came in at 70m2, but thankfully we only needed that for one elevation, so managed to keep it below £25 and 50/m2 for the majority of our elevation depending on whether it was painted or not. I can also imagine the tongue and groove to be an issue with it being warped by fire, so may suggest a different profile (just suspected, can't verify!)

21 in fact. Rest are RAL 9004

Truth be told, half the first batch of 21 were the wrong colour. Suppliers fault. Only after that did building control actually inspect and find them 10mm short... ?

I've got about 35 alu cills going spare, 180mm deep... free to those in various lengths if desired. Didn't realize they had to extend past the external face by 25mm ?

Love the idea, and think it will look stunning in corten! Have you spoken to the house on Wood Crescent who already have that in place mixed with black timber cladding?

Can second the lorry curtain, it is heavy as f**k. I exhausted myself manouvering ours around. I've cut it up into 4 smaller sheets to be able to manhandle them better

I am happy to take full credit

Some great suggestions @Cpd, I wish I'd thought of that for ours!

£500 for the entire scaff setup you can see in the photos. Cash deal with labour to install and strike down 2 months later. They had us for the scaffold for the whole house, so I had some leverage of future business with them. Key point of note was that we were warned not to tie the tarpaulin to the scaffold itself, but to weigh down the tarp as best we could independently. You can see we did what we could, but in some cases we did tie it to the scaff.

The structure: You've not got anything to bear the load across the structure from the top-left to the bottom-right. If you are going to do this, use a triangular Your longest horizontal pole is about 5-6m? You'll want to use a truss or support that in the centre. I'd want to use trusses for all of the roof portion if I was you. You need a decent fall from one side to the other, at least 10% if not more, for rain runoff. The Idea: Water will pool between your poles, even with a fall. That can lead to a lot of weight unless you stay on top of it. Water runoff looks like it'll strike your neighbour - suggest some plan to deal with that. High note of caution from me who has done something similar; wind is frightening at that scale with a tarpaulin. We spent £500 for a similar setup to cover 11x11m, and £250 for a 12x16m tarpaulin. It did the trick, but you can see the setup was very heavy duty and even so the tarpaulin received a lot of damage in the process, with bungees snapping and the poles ripping into the wind driven tarp. How a polytunnel will hold I don't know. 20190626_-_Winds.mp4

Thanks @Mr Punter, I've heard all the wonderful stories of just how hard it is to work with material, hence why I'm keen to contract it out! Hehe. It'll all be price based, so I'll be comparing it to some quotes For standard double board and soundboard for internal walls. This is a long shot, but determined to give it a fair shot before I make up my mind

I'm still keen on the fermacel approach to drywalling, but can't for the life of me find contractors who've experience with it. I've reached out to fermacel UK with no response. I just don't have the time to DIY it myself (about 2-3 months work est, and I have 8 days holiday left!) Any recommendations from folks on the forum for anyone specific?

Don't get me started... *turns around and continues to soothe 3 month old*

Was posted elsewhere on this forum, but the swiss also produce a fully wood structure that may be better suited for UK regs (below) p.s. If you're having natural wood for the elevations of your house, ensure you're at least 6m away from any boundary of your plot. Less than that and you're going to have to fire treat it one way or another which can double the cost.

Probably helps to point out: The DPM layer (below the insulation) is quite thick and hard(ish). The top layer (above the insulation) is almost as thick as a garbage bag, if maybe just a bit thicker.

As nod mentioned, your DPC will actually be the first layer of DPM you put down before the insulation. Generally fairly high grade stuff too. The clips only pierce the thinner layer above the insulation, which is only really there to ensure an unbonded concrete/screed above

That didn't look like it had been secured to the building ? Had the following happen just opposite my place of work in Reading. Can literally see my work's building at the end of the road in the video: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-berkshire-49298852

Archital are the ones we used