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Everything posted by garrymartin
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@Alan Ambrose was there something you wanted to say or something you wanted me to see in @Havkey100 latest post?
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It really depends on the inspector and the reason for the EICR as to how they will code it. As a layman, at the minimum, I would expect a C2 (potentially dangerous) in relation to the lack of an RCD and the reasonable expectation that sockets (especially given one of the ways is marked as garage extension sockets) could power equipment outdoors. If you have a very generous inspector, you might get C3 (improvement recommended) for anything else, but it depends on a lot of variables that won't be visible just from the photos you've provided. Just because the consumer unit is old and may not meet current standards doesn't mean that it automatically has to be replaced.
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Buying a house without a new build warranty
garrymartin replied to oksleator's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
A self-build mortgage would not be appropriate as the property is already built. I think @Jilly intended to refer you to the companies that offer self-build mortgages rather than self-build mortgages themselves. Also, Birmingham Midshires seem to no longer be trading so not a perfect example! 😉🤣 But there are plenty of others to choose from Halifax for example, which has the same commentary of "Yes, provided there are no more than 15 properties on any one development site and construction has been monitored by a professional consultant. We only require this where the new property is to be occupied for the first time." Halifax and Natwest both have mortgages at 4.45% fixed on an external comparison site so I'm sure with your specific details you could end up with a similar offer from Halifax without the warranty issues. -
Buying a house without a new build warranty
garrymartin replied to oksleator's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
It's a specialist field so you will likely need to involve a broker or do your own homework, but any mortgage products available may attract a higher interest rate to offset the extra risk so be careful that you don't end up paying £1000s extra over time. This link is likely to be of significant interest; it lists all the lenders that will proceed without a new home warranty scheme and the conditions for doing so. https://lendershandbook.ukfinance.org.uk/lenders-handbook/englandandwales/question-list/1919/ As an example, for your NatWest mortgage, it states "Yes but the building work must be monitored or (if completed) have been monitored by a professional consultant and the professional consultant has provided the Professional Consultant's Certificate in the UK Finance Handbook form. In addition, you must confirm the Certificate was issued prior to exchange of contracts." which I guess is why you are having problems. But as another example, Birmingham Midshires states "Yes, provided there are no more than 15 properties on any one development site and construction has been monitored by a professional consultant. We only require this where the new property is to be occupied for the first time." - did the vendors actually live in the conversion before putting it on the market? Hope this helps. Sounds like you've found your ideal home. -
They are in bands, so typically single-phase transformers are 16, 25, 50, and 100 kVA; three-phase are 25, 50, 100, 200, and 315 kVA. So if the existing 16kVA is insufficient, the step to 25kVA may not be enough and may not be cost-effective; hence the 50kVA. Or they could be upgrading to a three-phase 50kVA transformer and future-proofing requirements in that location for more heat pumps, electric car charging etc.
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To be frank, I have no idea. I suspect it is to put people off from commissioning the work. The following is a direct quote from an email where I queried this on my desk-based estimate that was more than £30K for a connection where the existing transformer is 1 metre from the site boundary. "As you may have read a budget estimate is an indication of the likely costs. A Budget estimate is not a formal offer for connection and cannot be accepted. These are desk top exercises, we do not carry out any detailed design work and the assessment is carried out as a desktop exercise that do not take account of any site specific considerations. The new costing rules are not factored into the budget estimate, and would depend on certain factors which would be accessed when providing a formal offer."
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Regulation 522.6.202 is the reference here - https://professional-electrician.com/technical/why-contractors-need-to-apply-due-diligence-when-installing-cables-embedded-in-thin-walls-or-partitions-niceic/ The easiest method would appear to be SWA to the outside; perhaps to a junction box and then to the lights from that location? I presume these are mains voltage lights and not SELV or PELV? Bear in mind you are protecting the first 50mm of the cable entering the fabric of the building though, so if that first 50mm was in a prescribed zone (behind your fitting?) and the last 50mm was also in a prescribed zone, then that 100mm sideways may not be a big issue... Perhaps a drawing would help with more options?
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When did you get the figures from National Grid, and were they desk-based estimates or actual costed quotations? The rules changed from 1st April 2023 and you should no longer be paying for reinforcement assets (cable and transformer upgrades) and should only be picking up costs for extension assets (the actual connection). OFGEM Access and Forward-Looking Charges Significant Code Review https://connections.nationalgrid.co.uk/significant-code-review/
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Buying a house without a new build warranty
garrymartin replied to oksleator's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
Structural Engineer -
Which Local Authority is this and what does their guidance say? For example, mine states a distance of 22m as a considered minimum between facing/backing dwellings. I know distance can be reduced depending on the number of stories and the angle of the buildings to each other (e.g. if the angle is greater than 30 degrees) but what is stated in your local plan and any supplementary planning guidance? They may be suggesting a single storey due to the 11.7m and 12.4m distances which are very much on the low side. Whilst referring to BRE guidelines may be helpful, it's really the LA documents that will prevail here. If you can meet the LA requirements, then it's plain sailing. If you can't, then it's down to what your planning officer might be willing to accept when considering the scheme as a whole.
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We've not had a site visit recorded, but then given the circumstances of the refusal, we don't believe one would be required (the refusal is all about sustainable transport options). My understanding was that the case officer is just an administrative role and that it is the Planning Inspector who would need to acquaint themselves with the details of the case if they were changed. Whilst we're still hanging in there too, it feels like our life hasn't moved on and many decisions are stalled. If we're successful at appeal, it's only the first stage (Planning in Principle) and we'd still then need to get Technical Details Consent. All sorts of decisions feel impacted, especially as I'm nearing early retirement age and what I choose to do will be substantially affected by whether we'll be building our own home or not...
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+100 Our appeal was submitted on 28 Jul 2023. It took until 02 Nov 2023 for it to be determined valid, which is the date from which all the timings for appeals are taken. This is very misleading when people look at 29 weeks (currently) as a median time to determine - it's NOT from the date you submitted the appeal. My dates; Appeal submitted - 28 Jul 2023 Application valid - 02 Nov 2023 Start date - 22 Jan 2024 Questionnaire due - 29 Jan 2024 Statement(s) due - 26 Feb 2024 Final comments due - 11 Mar 2024 And then there is just complete radio silence until it is determined. You can't chase it and you have no indication of when your appeal will be determined. Whilst the times have reduced a little over the last few months, these were the stats I gathered for Written Representations when looking at things. 25% of appeals are determined within 21 weeks 50% of appeals are determined within 30 weeks Median is 32 weeks Mean is 34 weeks 75% of appeals are determined within 44 weeks 90% of appeals are determined within 60 weeks An appeal is a very long, drawn-out process where you have pretty much zero visibility of whether anything is *actually* happening to move it closer to determination.
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We did something similar. We put in a 2nd application after the 1st was refused, providing evidence (to our minds) that the original refusal was invalid in its observations. At the same time, we started the appeal on the 1st application while the 2nd was going through planning. At least that way we didn't lose 5 weeks on the appeal timescale when the 2nd application was refused too. At the time, putting in another application after the first refusal was "free" of charge. Appeals are also free and our appeal could have been withdrawn had the 2nd application been approved.
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Don't underestimate both the time it takes for an appeal to be dealt with and the emotional toll of not knowing whether you'll be able to move forward with your plans or not. I'm in appeal at the moment and waiting for determination. It's quite literally a year to the day today that our original application went into the planners and was subsequently refused and appealed.
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I think you're going to struggle with hingeing on the short side with those door dimensions - there's a reason the European hinge manufacturers recommend a maximum width of 600mm and doors that are taller than they are wide. Can you live with it being top-opening instead? If you don't want something that physically holds the door in place once closed when side-opening (for aesthetics), then I'd look at Blum Aventos and changing the door to be top-opening.
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Post a photo of the hinges. If this is recently installed, and the joiner is available, then leave the problem to him. If he was the one who built and installed it, he should have known there would potentially be issues, and is likely to know the best way to solve them. Weight is an issue, but so is the design, with the smallest side being the hinge side. But you already appreciate this from your original post.
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If you continue to struggle (and I think you will given the dimensions and weight), then you could consider glueing a piece of wood on the inside of the door such that when it is closed, it rests on the frame ensuring the door "looks" right when viewed and does not, in effect, sag...
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It's more about time on-site than overall time. Time on-site is costly; just think of the savings in scaffold hire as just one example.
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Block Paving - Batch issues different shade
garrymartin replied to canalsiderenovation's topic in Driveways
Great news. It would be worth naming your location and the name of the builder and merchant if you are comfortable doing so. Always good to have the names of firms that respond in this sort of way and do the right thing where needed. -
@scottishjohn It's never really about "warmth", it's more about maintaining a consistent temperature at whatever temperature you want that to be. In the summer months, at least some of the time, that's going to be less than the outside temperature. As the climate gets warmer, maintaining a cooler, consistent internal temperature will be even more important.
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Here's the list from my Foundations "note" in my PKM system. * MBC Passive Foundation, which is based on the patented Viking House Passive Slab * Kingspan Aeroground, which is based on the Swedish Supergrund system * Kore Insulated Foundation * Castleform Raft Therm * Isoquick * AFT Passive Building Foundations * Greenraft Insulated Raft KORE: https://www.kore-system.com/ CASTLE FORMS: https://www.castleforms.com/ GREEN RAFT: https://www.greenraft.co.uk/ MBC TIMBER FRAME: https://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk/ VIKING HOUSE: http://www.viking-house.ie/ ISOQUICK: https://www.isoquick.co.uk/ ICF BUILDING SOLUTIONS: https://www.icfbuildingsolutions.co.uk/ PASSIVE SLAB: https://passiveslab.ie/ JACKON: https://www.jackon.co.uk/ THERMOHOUSE: https://thermohouse.co.uk/ ECONEKT: https://econekt.co.uk/ ASPECT NUBUILD: https://www.aspectnubuild.com/ AFT: https://www.advancedfoundationtechnologylimited.co.uk/
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I'm pretty sure most would be fine tied to rebar in a concrete slab, but if you want an absolute guarantee that that's OK from a manufacturer, here's at least one. WarmUp Forte Grid System - https://www.warmup.co.uk/underfloor-heating/water/forte-grid-system https://www.warmup.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Warmup-TS-Forte-2016-09-29.pdf https://www.warmup.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Warmup-TS-AL-PE-RT-v1.0-2016-09-29.pdf
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The pipes are pretty bulletproof and shouldn't be damaged during the pour under normal circumstances. There were some questions in other threads about abrasion against the mesh as people are walking on the pipes. I saw the below use of pipe lagging in a Youtube video and initially thought it was a great idea, but then wondered whether it would cause any issues with such a low compressive strength of the pipe insulation in the slab itself...
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IANAL, but my understanding is the LDC is not mandatory. If you have evidence, including records of Building Control inspections, the planning department cannot stop your work unless they issue an enforcement notice. If they have seen your evidence, I doubt they would take that course of action. They can *ask* you to stop work while you apply for an LDC, but to the best of my knowledge they a) cannot force you to stop work just by asking and b) cannot force you to apply for an LDC either. By all means, apply for the LDC to keep everyone happy and to be able to authoritatively respond to any future queries from interested parties, but for now, I'd say carry on...
