Jml

Love the fact that the glass balustrade seems to zig zag up the steps!

What cost would you expect for the same in blockwork and rendered?

Lot of work to do, if then have to skim and from prices not cheap as my ceilings probably covered many layers paint so will have to put on thickly. Thinking may be easier just to replace plasterboard. Will have to work out costs.

Will have to look at skip companies, £4 per sheet at local tip, soon to go up to £12! And they wonder why people fly tip!

The roof space above is accessible so perhaps that woud be the best way to approach it initially and we can remove a lot of dust from ceiling void before starting. Is disposal of the plasterboard a problem?

We seem to have the full range of swirls, dimples, textured wallpaper and just noticed woodchip on our ceilings, someone had fun! Replacement does seem to have it merits. I like a good bit of demolition! Certainly adding spots would be extra bonus.

Means loss of quite few cm of headroom. Can asbestos artex plasterboard be taken down without specialists?

I’d seen the second of those products, wondered if anyone had tried them? It’s something I could do myself.

Many thanks for responses consensus seems to be pva and skim. Its circular swirls with small peaks in the middle of each. Is it safe to ‘hoe’ or scrape off the small peaks, given possible asbestos? How deep generally is a skim layer of plaster, i.e will it cover few mm easily or are two layers needed as suggested by Nod? The alternative route of over boarding, I assume is easier than replacement of the plasterboard. Can the over board just be screwed into the existing roof joists and then skimmed? Does this way give a neater finish or does that depend on the plasterer?

Painted white, probably many layers, so assuming steamer would not work.

We have artex ceilings in some of our rooms (where not covered in swirly wallpaper which will also need removing!) which is likely to include asbestos as probably pre 1980’s. Just wondering best way to get rid of it. Have found X tex artex remover product on line, has anybody used it, is it safe to use? Thoughts appreciated.

Looks really smart, have always chosen black, but may change my mind for next purchase! Nothing beats a real fire!

Wow, beautiful location.

Many thanks. SE due to be booked for visit shortly.

Makes sense. Could you build up the wall between the pitched roof trusses to do the same thing?

See below, at least these are to scale, and include the dormer which had merrily forgotten about yesterday! Had though about that, not a great fan of a step especially as our plot is pretty flat. We would also have to dig up part of existing flooring which would form part of the new kitchen diner and as we are building over a mains sewer (unfortunately) I want to keep as far above that as possible to get permission from Thames water. Would certainly be a neat soultion though.

Think will have to make an effort to get rid of the flat roof if we can! Scale of my sketch was pretty rubbish, just checked dimensions and piched roof approx. 5m wide and flat roof 13m with a rear dormer to work around, so will need some thought!

Many thanks for the ideas, seems we have been bit uninventive! We unfortunately have a rear dormer which I missed from the drawings on the right hand side, for an upstairs man-cave, so your last idea probably a step too far, but certainly consider double pitch as no fan of flat roofs, ours at moment are leaking like a sieve! Oops. Would have to see if we can work double pitched roof around dormer also!

Essentially idea never occurred to us! Something to think about! We had idea of flat roof with number of large skylights, to let light into centre of house. Roof on left we plan to have as vaulted ceiling, essentially replacing existing flat roof extension, new part of extension is the flat roof part. Not sure we could afford to do two vaulted ceilings, but suppose we could look at rooflights or compare the costs of the two. Is there any potential problem with the v shaped valley between the two piched roofs?

Sorry i seem to have confused things! The above was part of the plan from my second post with some walls drawn in. Apologies for being unclear, is below any better?

Ignoring planning (at the moment), in the diagram abovethe shaded walls would have to be raised? What then happens to the piched roof next to it? Does the ridge move or the roof become uneven or do you have to raise the left hand wall of the pitched roof?

Sketch attached showing existing and proposed bungalow, hope makes more sense now!

I like to know how things fit together. After a few hours looking at numerous google images none of which seem to represent a design similar to our extension, I need some help! It probably obvious but I’m flummoxed. Our extension will have part flat, part pitched roof attached to a pitched roof of the main house. The flat roof joists I assume will sit on or hang off the wall plates, which will also support the pitched roofs. If we wish to have a higher ceiling under the flat roof part, the flat roof joists need to be lifted up how is this done?

We are building an infill ground floor extension of approx 60 m2 which will house part of our new kitchen/ diner. The extension is L shaped and will have block and beam floor as building over a sewer. Just wondering which heating system would be best/ cheapest/ easiest, to extend our radiators or underfloor heating? The boiler will be moved as part of the works, and the radiator system is rather haphazard as the bungalow has been extended a number of times since it was built in the 1950’s. Trying to decide insulation levels for the extension at the moment, and having read various threads on here and ebuild, now seems the time to upgrade the proposed insulation if going for underfloor heating. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers J.

Our council does not have the plans, but does have approved date, last visit and completion date in relation to a given property.