Jml

Ok, im being seriously thick here, found the hyperlink thingy and box popped up with link details, but cant then copy those or paste over! I am using an ipad which can causes problem on various sites or i am just doing it wrong?

Just found diagarm for changing y connection at sewer into 90 degree bend on different thread ( dont know how to quote that thread on this thread), but thanks to @Nickfromwales. Easy when you know how!

Have proposed downstairs, but not with drains. Will work on that tonight.

I’m sure i’m making this more complicated than it should be. Having looked at various documents and leaflets on the web it seems I cant connect to the sewer with an angle of less than 90 degrees from the direction of flow. This means as the proposed kitchen waste is further down steam than the manhole I need another solution, without creating yet another join to the mains further down it. Drains seem to run in straight lines, so a gradual backwards curve, is probably not the answer. (?) I know i could move the kitchen but it fits neatly where it is. What I therefore thought was two drains with rodding eyes, see pictures. Thoughts??

Many thanks for your response. Could do vent into other manhole, may be easier. Second branch to kitchen could easily continue to do rodding eye. Problem i forsee is that kitchen waste further to right than manhole, so waste has to run to left (as on diagram) then curl round to meet current manhole position. How do I rod bit between current manhole postion and new stack? Would love ‘robert to be my aunties husband .......’

Our extension will be built over a mains manhole, which will have to be moved or covered over anyway. We do have another manhole on our property serving the mains drain. I have been trying to work out how this will work so that I can put in a build over claim to Thames Water, without success. At the moment the manhole to be moved/covered has FOUR pipes coming from our property going ito it, all from one side of the manhole: 1. Roof rainwater, which when new flat roof built/ extended will need to go to a new soakaway in the garden. (And then there were 3) 2. Soil vent pipe. This runs vertically to the roof outside the current house then has a long horizontal run in the loft space does a zig zag and then pops out next to our dormer window. No other pipes are attached to it. It needs to be moved (I THINK) as it sits right at the corner where the new extension will start and therefore, as far as i can work out, is in the way of the new block and beam floor. 3. waste water from sink, bath, and old kitchen(to be new utility room) 4. Waste from loo in bathroom. In addition we need a new connection from the other side of the mains for the waste water from the new kitchen. See Picture. The mains drain is such that connections to it will have to be via a preformed junction(s). i was thinking of creating one connection only to the soon to be covered manhole, get rid of the soil vent pipe, create a soil stack where the loo is, to which the loo, waste water from sink, bath and utility and from new kitchen run to, then this attaches to the remaining pipework of the soil vent pipe to the roof. Not ideal a loo soil is in floor of bathroom so would loose space from stack and connecting new kitchen waste to it through existing house wall is a problem(?). Also whilst can rod down flow of sewer from other manhole, what about the metre or so between bottom of soil stack and the new connection to the sewer? See picture. Any help much appreciated, as fed up waking up thinking of possible drain designs, and worrying Thames Water will not like any of them!

Went for this, many thanks for suggestion. Today first non drizzly day since roof collapse so first coat on, will do second tomorrow. Stixall seemed to have stopped worse, as no water in house through drizzle, or perhaps it needs proper rain to get through crack. p.s thanks to @prodave for recommending stixall in a different thread.

Have there been any other recent planning applications in your street which may have done a street scene? which you could use as an example (even better if you house was part of it!). Our council planning website is a mine of information especially if you can find similar applications to yourselves. I spent a few hours looking at what other applicants had submitted, reasons for refusual of plans and subsequent approval. Our council does weekly lists of applications and decisions which found it was worth following to see what they liked and did not.

We didn’t do a street scene, but at one of the homebuilding shows an architect suggested we put the outline of our current bungalow on the new front elevation of our proposed conversion to a 2 1/2 storey house . This helped us get planning after a refusal for dominating, massing etc. As whilst we were raising the ridge height by 3.5m it didn’t look too big compared to the bungalow that was already there. They also didnt like the proposed front gable, said it was not in keeping with the area. We got rid of it, but there are numerous examples of houses with front gables around us, so may have been worth arguing our case, but as other things were more important to us which they had not complained about it was easier just to remove it.

You get a ‘second go’ for free, subject to some conditions see below from planning portal: Exemption from payment If the application is the first revision of an application for development of the same character or description on the same site by the same applicant:  For a withdrawn application: Within 12 months of the date when the application was received.  For a determined application: Within 12 months of the date the application was granted, refused or an appeal dismissed.

Can be used to offset CGT, but CGT rate 18 or 28 % of profit, so only recovering 18 or 28% of SDLT rather than 100% if sell within 3 year period.

Sorry not very clear. Bad habit of knowing what I mean but not explaining very well, totally infuriates OH. Given our problems with flat roof at moment was going to look again and see if we could fit a pitched roof or double pitched roof instead, for which would need planning. That was when @JSHarris suggested fibreglass as a good durable roof surface, which might not leak over long period of time.

Not sure what you are referring to here, but part of our flat roof has three drains to a hidden gutter which then comes out the side of the roof. There is a leak somewhere in that system, also, as we have to regularly hose the guttering, which seems to stop it temporarily. we did have 3/4 of a bucket through that leak whilst we were away, in the kitchen. Would advise think very carefully about hidden gutters. Our new one will not have that design, keeping it simple and hopefully leak free.

Many thanks, worth investigating as would need new planning application to change roof design.

@Onoff and @recoveringacademic many thanks for advice and info. Will formulate a plan tonight and hopefully get stuff tomorrow to make repair bit more permanent. Hopefully that repair will last until we do our extension when roof was to be replaced anyway, with another flat roof! May look at that again and see if anyway can get pitched roof into design. The smell of damp plaster and fluffy insulation coming from the dining room is not ideal!

Many thanks for the quick response, roofs look much like ours, ours look in worse state though! Have made emergency run to nearby toolstation and bought some stixall which have appliled liberally over obvious cracks. Hopefully have found correct crack and will hold if rains tonight, otherwise will have waterfall in dining room! Will look at your suggestion later today, pretty damp up there so will check instructions carefully, many thanks for that tip. Our flat roofs desperately need replaced, usually leak through light socket from internal drain in ceiling, which is cleared by hosing drains. This is much worse though, not the most attractive ceiling feature!

Been away for a few weeks over christmas. Came back saw we had few drops of damp above dining room table and table was damp. Today, few minutes ago, ceiling collapsed (see pic). Flat roof above is due to be replaced when we do our extension. Is there a quick fix to stop water getting in? What about expanding foam along crack, which joins two sctions of the flat roof ( see pic.) or any other suggestions welcomed, especially before it starts to rain again!

Is there an easy sytem to fix the ends? Joist hangers, even I understand how to use, but am now concerned they may not be the best fixings, as we will be using posijoists I would want to avoid this potential problem.

Dyson did not work for us as continually getting clogged with dog hairs, even animal friendly version, which were nearly impossible to declog. We have had sebo animal version which can be fully taken apart, and parts even dishwashed, only disadvantage uses bags, but you can buy non sebo ones which work fine.

Our dogs, retriever and gordon setter, use to just watch the mice make their way around the edge of the living room, whilst I was running the other way!

‘Don't feed the things in the first place.’ We had similar problem with a bird feeder, attracted the baby squirrels, which the dogs loved to bark at from the other side of the glass but we were not so keen on the rats they attracted! So the bird feeder had to go. In the same house, inside we had problem with mice, as house was an old farmhouse with countless entry holes. It was only when we moved that we found the mice had vast storage supply of our dogs dinner biscuits under the bookcases, which would have lasted them for years.

Can also use quotes from B&Q and Wickes to beat the price down, we were able to reduce quote substantially on that basis, although went with Wickes in the end. May also be cheaper to shop on net for appliances especially in sales as could probably do better than 10% reduction.

We similarly got stuck on deep gravel, late one evening on holiday in Spain, outside a hotel. A couple of very nice Spanish policemen, who just happened to be passing and saw we were stuck dragged us out using their police car. It was a quite tricky operation as the car kept nearly grounding itself on the kerb, but completed sucessfully with no damage about half an hour later, with a lot of hand waving as we didnt speak spanish and they didnt speak english.

Lived in Braintree for a number of years and spent many weekends looking at possible barn conversions near you and further north, never took the plunge unfortunately. Hope your build goes well, in what is one of my favourite areas.

Seemed to be what our carpet layer did! Worth taping joins if get draughts up through floor, say through first floor boards, as can get dust lines on the carpet, which very difficult to remove.