Seeoda

I did this recently and I want to show the method to help others. I used Volume flow rate (m^3/s) = Speed (m/s) * Cross-sectional area (m^2) Very easy with ChatGPT

That is really interesting. I take it that your house is airtight enough not to be impacted by high outside humidity like mine seems to be.

It is already helping. Although last night it was very rainy and thus it ran on boast forcing me to turn off the whole system to get sleep.

I found it was set at 60% RH. Changed it to 68%.

This process is proving very painful haha. I will be telling people to stay as far away from Venta Axia as possible. Such shoddy design, quality and customer service.

Thanks

Hi all, I have been some very heavy summer rains here and I find it triggers the boost mode of my Vent Axia Sentinel. Normally my home would be about 50-55% relative humidity but on very wet days it might be 60%, but I don't consider 60% inside excessive at all. While the the noise of the boost is disturbing my sleep. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Putting in rockwool or fibre into the void might not have a huge impact on soundproofing. What noise do you have? if you want to stop foot steps, use mass loaded vinyl.

I am sure some enterprising person could correlate different objects like paper, or cloth to flow rates and make a nice bootstrap calibration method. Might not work if you have vents that screw outwards but otherwise would be good

I bought the conical filters to insert into the extract valves. Unfortunately, my kitchen extract is so weak at the moment I cant fit the filter there yet (just 3.5 l/s), so I only have it on a bathroom valve. I dont know what sort of flow you need to have 13 l/s after fitting, my goal flow. They catch a huge amount of dust in the bathroom anyway.

The MVHR wont help with temperature but it helps a load with humidity. But we'd be able to advise more if they explained if they had a blower test. I think that is the way to go.

It can be where the state requires you to install an external hood. I am in this position now and I feel like I am butchering my house. BTW what are you kitchen extract flow rates? 13 l/s?

This question s a major issue that doesnt seem to be really being looked at properly. In some countries, all rental properties legally most have an externally vented hood. I dont know what the solution is.

Hi, I have a scheme house, over three floors. It is a tall but narrow house with its own branch MVHR system. Living in it has made be realise I deeply appreciate MVHRV, but the problem I have is that on the ground floor in the kitchen, the flow is too weak. There are a lot of food smells. The tested values are often just 2 to 5 (l/s) on this floor. I'd love a filter on the extract, but that would lower the pressure more. The kitchen has one extract. No input. While the system tends the system tends to be too noisy on the upper floors. I have flat channel ducts on the ground floor and the middle floor and round ducts on the top floor. The unit is in the attic on a hanging mount. It is a Vent-Axia sentinel. I don't have the budget to gut the house and change everything, so there is only a limited scope. I was thinking of some kind of hybrid system. Possibly a manifold on the ground floor to enable a second kitchen extract and maybe a second one to living room. Possible re do the flat channels to have less bends and better flow. With another manifold on the top floor to ensure a lower flow to nnoise sensative areas. Can you use manifolds on branch systems? I may be able to squeeze a radial duct or two from the attic to some rooms. Is this plan viable?

As you say, the two go together, but I get the impression when a room is at the lower temperature range Co2 is a much better measure of human presence.

Hi all, I have a three bed (118m2) with a Ventaxia MVHRV. I am there alone at the moment. In my bedroom I usually leave the bedroom door open and it allows great ventilation. I can measure this with a Co2 senor that I own. In the mornings I wake up with about 700 ppm. However, with the bedroom door closed, Co2 gets surprisingly high given the low occupancy and the MVHR. It may get to 1200 ppm. Is this normal?

Hi all, In the ductwork design, a lot of a layout is determined by the specifics of a house, which has to be figured out case-by-case basis. I understand that it isn't possible to generalise too much, but, is there a general view on ventilation for a kitchen in a typical-sized house? Some kitchens are only built with a single terminal, extract only, but is an input also best practice? I am thinking about this for a scheme house that is rather small and narrow, but three story and some rooms seem to have a worrying loss of pressure, including the ground floor. I guess having an input and extra in one room reduces the risk of sticking doors too. The MHRV unit is in the attic. So I am thinking about my options.

They have to run off even if you have something like this? https://hotun.co.uk/benefits-of-hotun/prv-discharge-pipe-routing-issues-hotun-the-simple-solution/ As you say, the thermal bridging is bound to be small.

If you have a valve in the wrong location you can cause discomfort with them. Like you dont want one over a bed

That is a great point. I honestly had no idea that these could sometimes be run internally. Just to clarify. It isnt an overflow. I think it is a pressure release valve pipe. It seems with certain plumbing this can go indoors which could also offer the benefit of no freezing risk. I will call Ideal boilers to check exactly what the situation is.

Although perhaps the bulk of your draughts do not seem to come through your inner leaf wall, I imagine some is. Ripping down the dot and dab and applying airtightness paint or parging is a pain and expensive but it is worth it in the long run. Maybe do it in the summer time for comfort.

Hi all, I have a gas boiler overflow pipe that runs from the external wall into my 'thermal envelope', behind my kitchen cabinets. It is only a small pipe but I live in a very windy exposed area and copper has phenomenal conductivity abilities so I figure this is a thermal bridge that I should look at. Has anyone ran such a detail through SAP, PHPP or DEAP? Ideally I'd replace the pipe with a non-conductive material but that may be unrealistic? So idea is to insulate both sides Does anyone have any suggestions as to what insulation would work here? It would have to be weather tolerant, heat resistant and hopefully look smart.

If your house is wet plastered and you are willing to change leaky doors/windows should be possible to get house airtight enough

Did you ever find a solution to this? Did you try a odourless toilet?

At some stage I want to take down the dry wall anyway for fitting speaker wire and a TV so I might use that opportunity. If I go ahead and end up installing a lot of soundbloc plasterboard I hope it helps keep the house in future heat waves