Tetrarch

Our experience: PP for extension - Refusal (size) Change, reapply - Refusal Appeal .... .... wait a whole year Refusal Apply for maximal PD - Approved Reapply for smaller than PD "less impactful" - Approved Original application +28 sq m Final approval +30sq m Stupid system Regards Tet

I've had a brief scan online and I'm looking at ~£400 to get a SAP calc done. I ghave ALREADY spent over £3,500 on insulation product for the house refurb. This is proof in and of itself, do I really have to get a SAP calculation done? I've already spent well over £1,000 compensating for the combined mistakes of my Architect and local Planning Department, another £400 for something completely unnecessary is really galling Regards Tet

Not exactly - the A to G ratings are just simplifying the presentation of the result. There is an actual numerical score underneath Regards Tet

Our BC Inspector mentioned the requirement for a SAP test on his last visit. As we have built a 28sq m extension with 7.5m of doors and windows plus three 2m x 1m skylights then I suppose he has a point HOWEVER We have demolished our entire solid-brick 1914 first floor and replaced it with a 150mm-insulated timber frame, so we have massively increased the thermal efficiency of the house by dint of this work. Surely we don't have to do a SAP test to demonstrate this as it is blindingly obvious? (n.b. I know that the answer to ALL "surely" questions is always "no") Our work should also increase our EPC, but that wouldn't be difficult as it is currently 4, yep 4, not a typo, and that was with 200mm of loft insulation Regards Tet

Does the PP you have approved remove your PD rights as a condition? Regards Tet

It very much depends on your local authority. If you're sure of your 1948 footprint then you can use PD as a lever. We originally applied for an additional 25 sq m with a roofing change (gables but not a loft conversion). It was rejected on GB % grounds plus "harm to the green belt" due to a change in "bulk" Ultimately we then put in a hideous PD application to extend every way we possibly could in every direction to give us a total of ~34 sq m. Once granted we then used this as leverage to go back with a "less harmful" application Result - we ended up with an additional 30 sq m Regards Tet

As per the title really. Trying the "free design" route for a retrofit seems crazy as there are too many limitations. I want (and am happy to pay for) a site visit, but would appreciate a steer as to a good installer in my region Regards Tet

My architect specified 90mm Kingspan K106 (at £44 per sq m) for a 100mm cavity. The specified tape is also extortionate at £68 per 50m roll My builders found this almost impossible to fit because it requires an absolutely flat internal face and then a "snot-free" finish without sufficient space to get tools or fingers in. This is a stupid specification and the Building Control guy agreed when he came to inspect. We're having K-Rend so he was not as concerned, but his recommendation was to use a 110mm cavity as a miniumum to avoid these problems. I assume that Kinspan use their specificiation because that is the only way that the models give the necessary u-value, architects and designers then take this as written without any regard to the installation practicalities Regards Tet

There is no timber frame. This is for blockwork and a mahoosive 6.5m opening with two goalpost steels, one for support, the other to hang the doors from. I'm trying to keep the corner block as narrow as possible (328mm) hence the K-106. There's only 15m of walls and 7.5m of glass (all triple glazed) Regards Tet

Yep - too late Tet

Hi, Our Arhictect/Designer has specified 90mm Kingspan K-106 in the cavities of our new walls. This brings the U-value to 0.17 I've ordered the insulation. Do I need special tape for these boards or is there a high-performance tape that is recommended, or is tape just tape? Regards Tet

I want an EPDM roof on my new extension but I am having the devil's own job actually finding an EPDM roofer. I want a 28 sq m roof for me and I also have a 225 sq m commercial property that I manage that needs doing as well - you would have thought that that would be carrot enough! There are roofing companies that purport to be EPDM specialists but they don't answer the phone or respond to online enquiries I am a little wary of check-a-trade as they only have "roofer" as a category Any ideas? Regards Tet

I had exactly this problem where my SE specified the foundations below. After a good discussion we've opted for a picture frame instead of goalposts for the beam where the blue squares are and we had 600mm trench dug to 1200mm below DPC that satisfied the SE for the remainder. This way we didn't have to undermine the foundations of the existing structure that have been prefectly happy for 53 years.

sorry - wrong thread

I've literally just spent the last 8 days watching the foundations dug for our extensions and soakaways. The level of skill needed to accurately dig a straight and level trench is extremely high. It's not a job I would even consider doing myself. Regards Tet

We saw the Bora in-hob extractor and the Neff (Actually Siemens in their London Demo kitchen) both in-hob and the downdraft. They all work as-described. The Bora we only saw with a pan of boiling water, the Siemens/Neff was a three course lunch. We went for the Neff Downdraft in the end, mostly to retain five cooking spots on the hob but I can't deny that the theatre of the downdraft is incredible - I'm just hoping that I can get Alexa to play this tune every time we use it (scheduled Jun/Jul) Regards Tet

I should shortly be getting permission to change my roof. I'm aiming to make the roof "thicker" in order to extend the eaves to allow for some EWI. I'm having a new roof for sure, but exactly how it is to be constructed is an open question. I just watched "Channel 4 - The Streets" https://tvtonight.co.uk/grand-designs-the-streets-season-3-episode-7-airs-27-december-2023-on-channel-4/ I actualy got quite excited about the thought that SIPS panels would deliver exactly the sort of effect I'm after whilst massively improving the insulation values of the house. How do I find out if this is a suitable idea and not just a flight of fancy? Regards Tet

Overtiling one wall with something very plain will help. If it doesn't do another wall. This should not be expensive as you're starting with a completely flat substrate Regards Tet

Here are some pictures of my sample. The lower fascia just clips out really easily Regards Tet

I've got two of these on my shopping list for my build. One 1m and one 6.5m. They are expensive, but I went to my local supplier and was able to see it in action and they gave me a sample to take away. Very impressed butit is certainly not cheap Regards Tet

Maximising roof height mandates minimising roofing thickness. Corrugated sheets will not help with this. Rubber is obviously the thinnest you can go for and you can chase this directly into the wall, no need for lead. My outbuidling has an (as-yet uninsulated) 15° slope, 12mm OSB and loose-laid rubber roof. The rain makes a very pleasing dull thrumming noise Regards Tet

You could use some cladding boards with the star shape cut out of multiple https://www.cedral.world/en-gb/cladding/our-products/cedral-click/ These are pre painted and would not need to be treated. It's even possible that the raw cut inside the star would actually look quite attractive The super-cheap alternative would be some suitably painted concrete board like an aquaboard offcut Regards Tet

That's really interesting. We lost our internet for a couple of hours last week whilst they changed a telephone pole.....I'll try all that TIA Tet PS Apologies to the OP for hijacking the thread

Very weird that this thread should pop up now. I'm having terrible trouble with one of my three Neostat v2's (connected to the old style wiring centre WITHOUT reset buttons) and a Neohub Gen 2. It ran out of batteries and since replacing them the temperature is wrong and it refuses to run correctly (kicks in and then turns off seemingly randomly). This is winter three with the Neostats and winter two with the hub. All worked perfectly last year. As it stands I've been unable to work out how to reset the connection to the wiring centre and/or the hub. Will be following this thread with interest Regards Tet

The long term plan is for all three. The project is a 1914 essentially Detached house with a large outbuilding. Not DIY but the builder is happy for me to contribute The extension is a 28m single storey extension, flat roof. The build will necessitate the removal of the entire rear wall of the house and then replacement with a steel beam over 8m span and a new timber-frame wall above. The roof will be replaced as part of the project. Work is scheduled to start in March 24 MVHR - getting MVHR into the flat roof structure might be problematic so it may be limited to a single extract in the kitchen and all the other MVHR pipework being within the original house Solar - The outbuilding has a 10m x 3m almost perfect South-facing pent roof with a 15-degree pitch so I'm looking at a quite a substantial array here My question is ordering. The Solar PV is almost a stand-alone install. I will be running some more permanent electrical cabling. The only issue is that the electrical grid connection is on the North side of the house. I assume that the MVHR would likely be an easier install whilst the roof is off, but it could be done before if it makes sense Any opinions or experiences welcome Regards Tet