mike2016

I'm looking at getting external insulation fitting to my walls. It's a retrofit, 22 year old house, cavity block built construction. I was looking at 100mm but someone suggested 200mm. I've done some calculations as follows: Current: U: 0.586 100mm EPS: 0.219 150mm EPS: 0.167 200mm EPS: 0.135 Now I could adjust the depth in places, deeper for north facing etc but it's a lot to add to the window reveals and then any fixings get a bit trickier. Any pros and cons / things I should be aware of? Thanks.

I installed a Vent-Axia PIV (Positive input ventilation) last year. I used to get all the cooking smell in my upstairs bedroom. Once running it dealt with that immediately and improved the air quality upstairs a bit too. I put an F7 filter on it as I live beside a main road. Having it putting air into the landing beside the main bathroom meant I knew it was keeping moisture levels down a bit. The only issue was over winter, I've disconnected it as it made the landing freezing. It does have an electric heater but I was never keen on the idea. I'm now looking at MVHR myself. I'll probably go with an installer. Finding it difficult to run to the downstairs too so hope to use a space along the wall on the landing to route into the utility room below and drop the ceiling in there to manage the runs. We've already had a quick look under the landing floorboards and think we can get through there. I've still a good bit to do on air tightness but interested to see how it goes. I could always just self install upstairs but want a whole house system and given the difficulties thought getting help this time around would be worth it. Will see what the price looks like in a week or two!

You can move to a night saver tariff and get an even cheaper rate - I've a 6 kW battery and am doing that now with a similar sized array. Paying 9c per kW for 9 units and 18c per kW for 3 units per day currently from the grid. The battery charges overnight. Plus you can investigate the new option to use the Powerwall in a blackout - moving into possible separation of the UK from the EU grid inter-connector next year it might be more useful than you think? I think it's a great price for a powerwall imo. And anything you can do to generate rather than consume from coal power plants at peak times is welcome to0. Agree the finances don't line up but pushing PV excess back to the local grid saves tramissions losses from fossil fuel power plants. It all adds up. Hope you go for it!

Bitdefender AV is also free, bit more aggressive though. I just use windows built in security now on windows 10 and keep patches up to date though. Delete any suspicious mails without reading and watch what you click on in your browser....also recommend a good firewall between you and the internet - buying Ubiquiti secure gateway to complement the AP Pro access point I already have from their range. Plan to segregate all my connected wireless devices from each other (alarm, cctv, solar pv etc). https://www.bitdefender.com/solutions/free.html

Thanks - the air bricks go into the upstairs bedrooms - the attic is very low and a 28 degree pitch, you can't stand up in it. Tile vents is the alternate but has its own set of issues, mainly I like holes in my roof even less than my walls!! One more problem to monitor down the road with leaks etc, it's a 22 year old house and I don't trust the membrane under the tiles to handle any small leaks. Just the thoughts of diamond drill bits and I'm wondering if the cavity block wall will suffer as a result, probably not but was interested to see what others think..... Cheers

Hi, I was just wondering if I should have any structural concerns before having 2 x 180-200mm holes drilled in my gable end wall at the base of the attic floor. The chimney will sit in between the holes with a 2m+ gap between them. I don't want the chimney sagging in a few years if I compromise the structure in any way....?! Any ideas / concerns I should raise before this goes ahead? I've marked a possible location but they will probably be a little further apart in the end. Thanks.

Thanks - I'll check with the installer....!

There's going to be a lot of pipes, some double runs to some rooms! I hope to document the install a bit and post a blog about it as it might be useful to highlight the challenges to others. Will have to see what the quote comes in as in the new year but it's still in the feasibility stage currently. Good idea about access via a bedroom!

Thanks - Got an ensuite straight behind the stairwell or the utility room beneath the stairs. Not sure if I'll be able to run a pipe behind/around the shower in the en-suite though so will probably drop it into the stud partition on the right and into the utility room washing machine / tumble dryer outlet below.

Thanks Declan - considered monkey bars but will probably install a telescopic ladder or some such means to reach the front of the unit, or mission impossible rapel down from above?! The brink units look a breeze (apologies) to swap in and out filters. I just don't want the unit falling on my head one day....!

I've been looking at retrofitting a Brink MVHR unit into my 3 bed semi detached property - 2 story. The unit/system won't fit in the hot press, attic or utility room. I got the idea of trying to see if it would fit above the stairwell (with the manifolds in the attic) but wanted to check if anyone knows of any buildings regulations that would prevent this? Fire etc? If this is possible, I'll need to find a way to secure the 37 Kg unit (Flair 325). There are just stud partitions all around that area and I don't want to suspend it from the roof trusses above which are not designed to take a downward load. Any ideas? Would the studs be safe to secure this load to? Thanks!

So, my house build has fallen through but that releases some money to go about making my current house (2 storey semi detached) more comfortable. I got a Solar PV system installed recently and am waiting on the grant to come back for that. It's a 4.2Kw system with a 6Kw battery. IT cost €8K after the grant and it has an Eddi diverter for hot water from any excess. I'm surprised they fitted 13 panels on my roof which exceeds the max 12m2 planning laws but a woman in Limerick won a court case where she was told to take them down so hopefully planning laws will catch up soon! Next year I'm looking at improving the comfort of the existing house further. It's heated by Gas currently - recent condensing gas boiler for heating and hot water. The Eddi could be used to heat the water in the summer if I wanted to turn the heating off. You can set a schedule. Just need to find a nice off peak tariff or use the excess/battery and see how I get on. So I am hoping to do External Wall Insulation and Windows possibly next year. I also want to tackle MVHR and air tightness. Currently I have a Positive Input Ventilation unit but am finding it too cold now the temperatures have dropped so I've disconnected it. I put F7 filters on it as I live beside a main road. Interested little unit but I'm ready for something bigger and better now! The main problem is retrofitting a MVHR system! The solar PV was interesting as the equipment couldn't be fitted in the attic so they had to run 4 x DC cables down to the kitchen where the inverter and batteries are located. That's given me the experience of how difficult it was! A load of 75mm ducts would be even more fun!! I'll get an installer as I think the regs have changed again and it requires signoff in ROI now but I'll get as hands on as they allow. I want to line up an air tightness test sometime in the future but plan to tackle some air tightness stuff if I get the MVHR installed: Seal up passive air ducts in each room Replace cooker hood with recirculation one or one tied into MVHR (Vent Axia do one apparently) Remove cooker hood vent to outside and seal Check how to seal upstairs dry lining which is open to the attic without causing condensation risk Check if I could drill holes around upstairs floor by outside wall to foam between floor joists (vs risk of damaging timber/rotting if it can't breathe) Replace loft hatch with one that's class 4 air tight, hard to find one that's 72cm x 52.5cm though, nearly all I've seen are much larger. This needs to be insulated too. check all 1st floor ceiling penetrations and seal - wiring, pipes etc again check which products won't react and cause issues later Remove PIV Unit and seal landing opening After all that I'll be interested to see where the air leaks are...! I've looked into doing a 1 day course on external wall insulation installation. I found one here: https://ewipro.com/system-calculator-trainings-and-cpds/ They have them every Thursday and it costs @ £50. There's a lot of detailing so I'm not sure how serious I'll get on this. Problem areas depending if I go with 100mm or 200mm would be: External water taps detailing around plinth below DPC repositioning Alarm box, CCTV, Security Lights Covering Soffit ducts into attic - possibly covered with 200mm so needs a different grill that transitions though the EWI Doing a good job of render out the front, might be good to get a Pro for this! Gas pipe needs to be moved forward as it can't sit inside or behind new insulation as per regs Electric meter box needs to be extended forward So I angle the reveal above window openings to let in more light Do I pump the cavity walls first - thermal looping can still be a problem with beading I've heard though I've a gable wall which is cavity block so not pumping possible there as far as I know Tool to cut window cills Need a safe platform to install on upper levels, above kitchen roof and to reach top of gable, rent / buy? Going forward then you can't use a ladder against new render - need other way to access gutters / roof / security lights / cctv for maintenance / repairs! Regarding Windows I'm set on replacing the ones I have (original - 22 years old) and moving them out to meet the insulation. I rang my preferred window supplier and they will do this for you but I'd need to check their detailing, is it airtight and do they install their own insulation around the window and seal it all off? Can the new window be slightly bigger than the opening to let in more light and hide some of the frame. I can install them myself and they do provide supply only, but won't take back the old windows if I do! The original windows were replaced in a neighbours house and some had to be cut out as the original installs were poor. I'm not hopeful of being able to sell on many of them if that's the case but I'll look into disposal options. It would be nice to do the EWI and Windows as I go and take my time with it. I can store the lot in a shed (alarmed) or just buy a few at a time if that doesn't work out more expensive. Issues to watch for: Good air tight detailing Rigid insulation around new opening and window is tape sealed to this Need to insulate / render inside to cover the gap where the window used to be Brackets to hold window to wall - straight or angled, size options for 100mm vs 200mm insulation Triple Glazing on north side, option of double glazing on front of house which is south facing, it is noisy with the road though 3M security film option for rear ground floor windows Integrated solar powered blinds would be nice! Blinds need two options, one for privacy another for no light at all during summer New Composite front and rear doors are also on the cards. Will need to see how to detail the new plinth (in line with EWI) and if it can be concrete or compact rigid foam insulation for thermal bridging. I can create a new concrete step outside this. Well, that's my wish list. The windows are a bit of a stretch for next year but I hope to do most of the rest. I'm still waiting to engage with a BER technical advisor to get more advice - If I change 25% of the external fabric I've to upgrade to a B2 or better. I'm a C3 currently. Will see what that looks like. Would be easier to build a house with all this already done, wouldn't it?!!!! Still wouldn't want to get bored!

I got one of a batch of FooBots being used as part of a research project on ebay. I also wanted something off the shelf and not fiddly like the Raspberry Pi. Unfortunately they are no longer sold but are developing a next gen model, no idea of availability. Some second hard units are available on ebay from the Netherlands but a bit pricey @ £160 ea. USB powered. They can log to an app on your phone and the internet which is great for tracking activity. See the available measurements in the screenshot below. That's my bedroom CO2 I've focused on. It's certainly possible, depending on your budget....

The Grohe Red has the following feature which is what I'm hoping to take advantage of or find a cheaper way to get the same result. I think this is what JSHarris is referring to..... Customers may want to also purchase the Coldfill Mixing Valve (40841001) to replace your low-pressure kitchen tap, which mixes mains water with kettle-hot water to give you immediately warm water too, meaning no waiting for water to heat up, and less water wasted.

Hi - hoping for some thoughts / advice? I just had a solar pv system commissioned on my 22 year old house. Two storey semi detached. I've had a small amount of excess so far and my mind started wondering how best to use it....I was too late with the blue pills..!!! So, the PV system has an Eddi diverter keeping the upstairs hot tank at 60oC when there is excess. It makes me really want to use the hot tank more than I do currently. I'm also thinking about how to solve a problem I have in the kitchen. Current Hot water cylinder usage: Upstairs hot taps Ensuite Shower (1 adult user, hot flow is ok but not great) The odd bath Kitchen Sink There is an electric shower in the main bathroom that myself and one other adult uses, 3-5 minute short showers each. Flow is good enough from cold tank in attic. PV System: 4.2kw PV array, 6kwh battery, Eddie diverter to immersion Gas Heating - standard condensing boiler (not a combi) and radiators with Thermostatic valves Issue #1: The kitchen hot tap has a 30 second dead leg - 1/2 inch copper pipe feed Issue #2: Options for Triton electric shower in main bathroom - can I use the hot water tank instead? Issue #3: Best use of any additional Excess PV #1: Currently the electric shower and screen are mounted at the foot of the bath. The hot water tank is on the other side of the wall at the foot of the bath. The ensuite is 6 feet away. The existing bath shower hot head pressure isn't the best, it might just be the old hose though. I'd like to use the hot tank for showers but have a fallback like an in line Siebert Eltron system that only kicks in if the water isn't hot enough to give the 38oC shower needed. Maybe add a Digital shower but am concerned about the hot water pressure as I'm on the same level as the tank. #2: For the kitchen I've been looking at instant hot water taps, the Grohe model mixes with the dead leg water and provides hot water until the hot tank water arrives downstairs. I have capacity for some additional background load given I have a battery. Some type of insulated storage tank that buffers the dead leg and keeps itself at 60oC or so would be ideal. I'm trying to avoid paying for more filters though as I've a 6 stage filtration system at the kitchen sink with its own tap already, unless I can integrate that. Instant boiling water would be nice though! I can't see how I'd be able to add a re circulation circuit into an existing house but is that an easy or difficult option? I've no return pipe for it.... #3: One more option I'm considering is adding a second output to the Eddi and connecting it to an LHZ electric heater in the living room - it's the coldest room in the house, 3 outside walls. Undersized Radiator. I'll be doing triple glazed windows and external wall insulation at some point but thought having a second use for excess useful - we have no FiT currently. Might not be enough excess in winter when it's most needed though..... It's great to see the house doing something it's never done before.

The joint is where I would have expected them to pass the cables through but they opted for a more "direct" approach shall we say....!! My exact worry is just that - if water ingressesed along the cable, it could go straight into the inverter and start a fire. The gubbins aren't yet installed so I have the option of mandating a drop in the cable before it gets wired in so at least that shouldn't happen. I still need to capture the water and lay an alarm in the bowl / whatever but it's a bit of a mess.....!

So, the PV installers have done their thing but in the attic there's now a new hole where they poked through their DC cables (2 x strings = 4 cables). I did ask them about this and they seemed to think that the tiles take care of the water. I thought the felt was a second line of defense....? Anyway, the inverter etc isn't hooked up yet so I was wondering is this a risk? What are my options? I could create a bend with a water trap / alarm under it from the wires? I'm not sure I'd be able to pass them back outside and back in the felt overlap shown though. I could call out the installers, they were very nice otherwise but technically, on reflection, I think this approach let them down. Thoughts?

It's a great price so I think you're onto a winner.

I was going to go fully passive house certified in which case I was lined up for the 4G Velux GGU MK08 @ €1062 + VAT each! I need four of these and two smaller ones costing €8K all in. For 6 roof windows...!! They are the same width but 1.4meters long, rather than 1meter in your case. So, I think you got a good price! Never saw anyone take the approach to see what the extra heating cost would be. Interesting sums. A bit like Solar PV - what's the payback? It's not just heating costs though you might need to factor in. What about: noise - traffic - planes - rain - animals risk of overheating - g value options motorized vs manual easy to reach / clean blinds - manual vs motorized rain sensor - risk to indoor floors / walls if open during shower durability - how much grease or treatment is required for the basic vs more expense ones? I slept under a basic one in an attic for 8 years growing up so I know all about them!! Can't remember if it was single or double glazed. For the small addition of £134 I'd personally opt for triple glazing, a bit like business class on a red eye leg, it's worth the extra. But if your overall budget is tight, then it doesn't make sense, keep to the basic ones. I don't think you can add secondary glazing later so you are stuck with what you buy one way or another..... The other thing is a good installer, familiar with the exact window manufacturer. If you're happy to take on this challenge brilliant, otherwise getting a product combined with an installer who is unfamiliar / not competent is not a combination I'd like to suffer.

put it on a USB key and post it.....!

I admire the tenacity of the self builders here who have pulled off their builds/dreams. I pulled out of mine this year as the costs far exceeded the value of the house and my ability to bridge the gap. Am considering van life for a few months of the year now but I've a very leaky bucket of outgoings including a mortgage and wonder if it's possible. Very different to what I was envisaging a year ago! For those with no noise of traffic and only nature, that's a gift!

Thanks! That sounds easier than using a plasma torch....!

Oh - that's the business! I'll have to figure out how to remove the old one as it's fully wrapped around but that's doable. Thanks!!

Hi, This hasn't happened before - I was wondering if it's easily fixed or do you normally have to replace the whole arm that holds the shower head? The wear and tear of taking the shower head off the holder has broken the plastic inside the holder that allows adjustment up and down to different heights. It predates my moving in so I've no idea where it was purchased from originally. Thanks

Right! Off to find some Water Hawk and give it a try!! Thanks for all the advice & tips!!