Roundtuit

Yes, but I'd like a more traditional look, and to match the house I think mortar-bedded is the way to go. I realise it will be slower and more challenging though.

I've now got a garage frame up, and I'm seriously considering roofing it myself as a) I'd like to save a few quid, and b) I'm weary of the whole world of disappointment that trying to get someone else to do work often involves. So: approx 120 sq m, interlocking clay pantiles, fully hipped, mortar-bedded hips and ridges. How hard can it be?

So, 12 months on, the over-priced Hitachi-approved replacement part has failed and I'm back to square one. Before I get stroppy with the supplier, is there any potential underlying cause of failure I need to investigate?

Condensation occurs where warm humid air hits a cold surface. I'd be looking at upgrading the insulation.

Whatever you choose, I'd make sure they're A1-S1-T1 rated, and don't underestimate the competence of the roofer in ensuring longevity. I spent ages comparing colour, price, quality and availability and I'm pi$$ed-off at having 2 or 3 fail every year/18 months since install (5 years ago). No idea what the problem is, but at least the roofers are honouring the 10 Yr guarantee albeit in slow time...

I think it's to cover a worst case scenario i.e. a fire in the flue generating abnormal temperatures.

As above: I used cement board at loft joist level (fixed to joists, with a hole cut in it for flue, assembled in two halves) sealed with fireproof mastic around the twin wall flue and across the joint, and then taped the airtight membrane to the cement board at a safe distance fron the flue.

If it all hinges on getting planning permission on the paddock, then that's the place to start! Or maybe you're further on in the process... what soil do you need to dig?

I'm not familiar with that sort of wall build-up, but the 50mm plasterboard and 150mm pir sound fairly decent. If it's timber frame, I suspect any cavity should be ventilated, but doesn't that render the external 90mm eps redundant?

Some pilers do. We had an assumed depth of 10m, plus additional cost for deeper, and a few quid off if it was less.

My local BM is coming in at twice that price for 6mm 2400 x 1200 sheets; any tips on sourcing cheaper please?

Difficult to tell from the pics, but I'd guess it's not deep enough. Don't know what best practice is, but I'd be looking for maybe 15mm plus.

I'd have a look at Witham Timber in Boston. I haven't used them personally, but suspect you'd get a good deal on that volume.

Looks like you haven't made it easy for yourself 🙂 Traditionalists would have made a square opening I think. How about squaring off the height with some sort of lintel at around the same level as the soffit. That will give you a bit of space to play with. I'd run the tracks down the back of the door piers to maintain opening width and avoid damage.

I don't thknk there's any way you can 'guess' that. You need to get up there to measure and check that there's some decent timber to put new glass in to. Looking at the pics, I suspect you'll be lucky to get away without replacing some woodwork.