Roundtuit

Probably just tape the small bits. For anything bigger, I believe the recommended fix is to slit the membrane horizontally above the damage, slide a patch up and in so that the top of the patch is on the inside of the membrane and the bottom of the patch is on the outside to shed moisture, and then tape in place.

Once it starts, its like an expensive roller coaster ride that you can't get off until it's liveable. Pace yourself, improvise, adapt and overcome, and remember it will be worth it in the end!

Wheelbarrow and shovel for me, or bucket and trowel for really small mixes, but that amount doesn't go very far.

I've got a 10ft container to pretty-up at some point. I think I'd drill the holes first and screw from the inside into the timber, or weld a few angle brackets on to avoid holes in the skin.

Probably not a massive oversight then; more a difference of requirements. Night latches usually require additional locks on the door for security so are superfluous with multi-point locking systems. I can't really see an overwhelming argument for having one tbh, but if you can, probably best to replace the door with another timber one and fit one.

I'm guessing you're used to a nightlatch type lock?

Hi Margaret. Good to see you've got another project on the go. How did the last couple turn out?

We put foundations and drainage in, then delayed the garage build for several years. When you get round to building it you can still ask trades to zero rate, so depending on your build method the vat hit might not be as big as you think.

Sometimes, particularly with old properties, trades build-in a margin to cover the stuff they can't see until they start. Tbh, I'd find it reassuring to see that your roofer has done what he sees necessary to do a proper job, which is what it looks like from the external photos. As above, I'd say don't worry about it unless someone else does, but is there perhaps a warranty on the roofing job that you can offer up if it's queried?

Looks like a quality job to me (as an amateur). From your last pics, he may have raised the ridge a little to retain the original building fabric. Is it listed?

Sorry, no experience of biodiversity credits, but in terms of the approved plans, it could be that the vendors planned a 'path of least resistance' through the planning process to avoid raising any eyebrows or ruffling the neighbours. We had a similar situation and did eventually get what we wanted through a new application (well, two apps actually, but that's another story).

I'd guess that the foundations for that supporting pillar could independent from the foundations of the rest of the house and the crack is a result of differential settlement. A bit of digging would soon find out if that's the case. The fix depends on whether it's still moving, and that's where you need expert advice. Maybe stitching the crack and patching the render would sort it out if it's stable, or underpinning the pillar first if not? Personally, I think it's potentially a negotiating point rather than deal breaker, but it depends on how much hassle it's worth to you. You may also find that lenders are more comfortable with 'historical settlement' than 'subsidence'.

Cable tie?

Is timber frame really 'non-standard'? No problem here getting a mortgage or home insurance on our timber frame. We do have a masonry outer skin though, so maybe that helps.

Just for clarity, I also hoover, but without constantly ramming my carefully fitted and painted skirting boards, so it is possible...