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Everything posted by Adsibob
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Don’t worry, it will do the job.
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Wow, that does seem low. What’s your home situation, do you live alone or with others?
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I had a mate who worked for McKinsey. His job was to consult with manufacturers and work out if any of their components were better quality than they needed to be. So if a product was sold with a 3 year warranty, he would work out which components would last longer than that and identify appropriate cheaper substitutes so that they would last just a little bit longer than the warranty period. A couple of weeks was ideal.
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How to work out if any doors need to be Fire-Doors
Adsibob replied to NewToAllOfThis's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Isn’t this that should come up in the review of the plans with your BCO? -
I think it has a diffuser to stop that being a problem: I also heard somewhere that the sensors take temperature readings pretty regularly and then use a clever algorithm to model what is the most likely amount of hot water left in the tank is. That figure outputs as an approximate value, something like a percentage to the nearest 5% or 10%. I believe @joth, @Robert Clark and possibly @Dan F have one (or at least did a lot of research into them. Hopefully one of them followed through with their purchase and can give us all their review.
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Do you need 55C water? If not, I’d suggest turning the stat down by a couple of degrees. The boiler might work more efficiently at 65C output. I’m not sure, check your boiler manual for efficiency ratings.
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That does seem excessive compared to my usage which is slightly less for a 300L tank and we bathe more than shower (due to young kids, mainly). Do you really need it on for 4 hours? Try 2hr plus 1hr, or 1:45hr plus 1:15hr. What temp is your tank set to? Try lowering it by a couple of degrees. Obviously, you need to trial one change at a time for several days to see what works. Are your pipes and tank insulated? What temperature is your output from your boiler set to?
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I empathise! My kids also know how to switch stuff on, but not off!
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my understanding is that by taking temperature readings at different locations within the cylinder (at two or three different heights) it can work out how much hot water is in the cylinder). This is one of its features (and probably the most useful).
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Endless supply yes, but not at an endless rate. Not that a system boiler and UWC gives an endless rate, but apparently it is slightly better than a storage combi. Maybe I got bad advice, but the advice I got was consistent with Viessman's own website where I entered my requirements and they steered me towards their Vitodens system boiler, over their storage combi.
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On the overkill point, it's very difficult to know without a mixergy cylinder or additional thermostats on the cylinder to work out whether or not it's overkill. I say that because obviously the thermostat will stop calling for heat from the boiler once it's reached temp, but that still doesn't stop one heating a cylinder full of water when one doesn't use it. In that sense a storage combi would have been more efficient I think, but I was advised that even Viessman's rather massive storage combi might not be enough for our needs, so we didn't go for it. Is there a way of adding additional thermostats in different locations on a Telford Tempest 300L vertical UVC to simulate the extra data that a mixergy cylinder has?
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Yes, I’m not touching the boiler settings. I’m just toying with the tank thermostat and the timer/programmer.
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I think the problem is that the kids have a bath almost everyday, but not everyday. I have a bath maybe once or twice a week. Otherwise it's all shower use. I originally wanted a mixergy tank as that makes understanding how much hot water there is left much easier. At the mo, we're just estimating and probably activating the boiler unnecessarily to produce more hot water than we actually need on the days we have baths, to avoid running out mid bath just in case. Plumber told me the boiler had to output heat at 65C and that I shouldn't change this. Something to do with the low loss header and overall system working best at this temp. But then he also told me "why don't you just leave the boiler on all the time, and let the thermostat on the tank regulate things for you"! I thought this was crazy, so just have the boiler coming on for 35 minutes in the morning and 45 minutes in the evening.
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So last couple of months we've averaged 11kWh of Gas per day and 10kWh of electricity per day. Somewhat disappointed that this is that high given that our only gas usage would be for our system boiler to heat our 300L hot water tank to about 56C and every single lightbulb in the house is a low energy LED (bar one actually, in the kids bathroom - which is a halogen). I haven't insulated the tank yet, so will do that this month, but I've at least insulated the pipes. Electricity seems high, though I do work from home and we do a lot of laundry as we have two young kids and we watch a lot of TV. How's your energy usage at the moment? Particularly interested to hear from those who also have a gas heated hot water tank. I've now turned the thermostat on the tank down to about 53C to see what difference this makes. It's difficult to know the exact temp it's set to as the analogue dial shows 45C and 65C and then two equally spaced increments in between which should be equivalent to 51.67 and 58.33.
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We went for engineered herringbone over a sand and cement screed with ufh in it. Works really well and looks great. You just need to prime the screed with a sealant I think, and obviously only do that once the screed is nice and dry. Check what the herringbone supplier’s recommendation is for max subfloorfloor temp. Ours was about 27, which appears to be fine for our purposes, although the minimum manifold temp is something like 35, by the time the water gets around and the heat percolates through the screed we were getting about 28 as a subfloor temp, but we took the 27C max with a pinch of salt.
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We finally got our dropped kerb done today. I was initially very excited until I noticed that the council workmen had removed the resident’s parking bay (two bays in fact) and replaced them with a SINGLE yellow line. i believe that technically it is illegal to park in front of a dropped kerb. However, not everybody knows that and the presence of a single yellow line, beside a sign which says when one can park on a single yellow, is likely to confuse the average driver. The internet appears to agree with me: https://penaltychargenotice.co.uk/parking/contraventions-for-parking/contravention-code-27/ I don’t live in Westminster, but it seems my council’s policy is the same. If I want the single yellow line removed, I can pay the Council to replace it with a single white line. Whatever does that mean? There is no other option. This is stupidity and bureaucracy on a whole new level. Why don’t they just paint two yellow lines and be done with it, or have no line to emphasise that it’s a dropped kerb!
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Door Opening Sizes For New Build
Adsibob replied to Internet Know How's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Do you know what style doors you want, what finish, and whether they need to be FD rated or not. Figure that out first. Then look at suppliers and see what sizes such doors are commonly supplied in. Then allow for door linings and build your openings to suit. i did not do this, and found it very difficult to find the doors I wanted, which were mainly supplied in imperial sizes, to fit the metric sizes my architect had designed to.
