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Ah, apologies. I meant the plughole/trap. I can see water at the bottom of the plughole move slightly as it gurgles, so I guess I was right about a pressure change sucking at that water. I'm fairly sure the pipe runs outside and before it discharges into the drain gully, there is an air gap. But maybe that's for another pipe. We have four sinks on the ground floor and this is the only one that makes this noise, I believe.

Not sure. I don't think so. Where would it be if I did have one? As part of our renovation and extensions our house was completely replumbed recently, to relatively modern standards, but the plumber did cut a couple of corners. Should he have installed one?

After and during some heavy rainfall our kitchen tap will make an intermittent gurgling sound. It lasts for anything between 1 and 4 seconds then stops for about 3 to 5 minutes then happens again. In case it’s relevant this is the type of trap we have under the kitchen sink: There is also a flexible pipe bringing the dishwasher waste water into this, although the angle of the photo hides it - I don’t think it’s relevant though, as the dishwasher wasn’t running at the time of the noise. The only explanation I can think of is that as our sewer fills up with rainwater it changes the amount of airspace in the drainage system and that causes pressure changes which affect the trap??? Not a very convincing explanation but it’s all I’ve got. Any ideas? It’s not bad enough or frequent enough to really bother me enough to do anything about it, other than to want to know why it’s happening.

Even with a DPC between the patio and the house, splash from the patio (the part of it not under cover) would risk hitting your house walls above the DPC if you don’t have the patio 150mm below the dpc. 150mm is best practice. You could probably get away with less, but I wouldn’t go lower than 80mm.

I think because MOT Type 1 base will compact better, whereas gravel won't really compact that well. Query why the trays can't be filled with MOT type 1?

She should pay you commission.

About to order the MOT Type 1 for the sub base. Going to hire a compactor and lay a sub base of about 50mm. Seems overkill for a shed installed on London clay, but there are lots of leylandii tree roots nearby and so I thought I might as well. But then I saw the prices of MOT Type 1 and almost feinted. Do i really need this much: Each bag is 800kg. My shed is going to be about 11 sq metres. One bag is a bit short wheras 2 bags is too much. Could i lay less than 50mm? Would 30mm be enough given that I'm laying the probase plastic grids on top (which are 40mm thick and then filled with pebbles/crushed granite).

Pergo won’t be damaged by dog claws. One of the premium Pergo ranges is completely water resistant. Much cheaper than installing tiles.

Why do you need such a large quantity. Is for several properties or just one? Wood effect porcelain can look good if you go for the super expensive variety. But why not just lay real wood engineered boards? These days you can get very good oils which will make it very moisture resistant. Alternatively, Pergo do a laminate which is pretty realistic. Can't tell without touching it and even then the only tell tale sign is that it is slightly cooler to the touch than real wood.

I think that would make the picture very bulky. The problem is that once the battery pack is big enough to have a 13A socket in it (shallowest I could find is this one), and once you add the thickness of the plug (and any transformer it has) you end up with a very thick build up. But your idea of a separate power pack is a good one. I wonder if I could power it from something like this, which is only 15.5mm thick.

that won't solve my issue though, which is that I want to hang something without any cables/battery packs showing.

I believe those dimensions are in inches. The Netgear is big enough, but not battery powered.

I'm looking for a battery powered version of something like this: https://www.netgear.com/uk/home/digital-art-canvas/canvasii/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Netgear PLA Feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=244&cid=uk-best-wifi6-srch-cpc&utm_source=shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=uk-best-wifi6-shopping-cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dC4gKaeExybhrmjZTZn5SG2ofi0tO3oBSdmRE69WPKqK1vhUaa-nUxoCX1QQAvD_BwE I'd like to display some art work digitally, but didn't think ahead to have a power socket in the right place on the wall. Thought a battery powered version should exist, but struggling to find something big enough. Needs to be at least A4 size, but preferably closer to A3. Any ideas?

Bolt cutters.

You go and see a civil litigator, one that specialises in property matters, particularly boundary and easement disputes.

More like they upset me! Well I guess we upset each other.

My shed is going to go quite close to the fence. What is the minimum gap I need between the shed and the fence to be able to repair the fence (hopefully not necessary for many years, given it’s just gone up) and paint the shed? Is 60cm enough, or a bit tight?

Anyone seen the Jeffrey Dahmer series on Netflix. Now there’s a man who could have done with a chest freezer.

Chest freezers are also much more useful for storing cadavers.

As long as it is not damp, you can add EWI and then render with a more contemporary finish. I recommend Ceresit.

To date, neither of these issues have materialised. Yes, there has been one occasion when the fiesta/SWMBO struggled. I’ve never had a problem, but I suspect we will in winter. I’m not sure I follow what you mean by this.

Thanks @AliG. I’m going to get some marking string and see what it looks like with a 600mm drop. That will change the gradient from about 11 to about 4 degrees, so that’s quite a big change. I should clarify that these are not actual setts. They are artificial, cast from concrete. They have a textured finish which makes them look like basalt setts. I’m hopeful that once the wax is removed they will be quite rough and that a 4 degree slope will be ok.

First of all, @Iceverge thank you so much, these diagrams are absolutely incredible!!! You must have gone to so much trouble. Thank you! The good news is that the height from the external FFL to the height of where the glass of our windows start is actually 32cm more than you estimated, so we could reduce the slope quite a bit further. Secondly, in response to: is that we are a one car and two bicycle family. My wife uses the car to take my son to nursery and then get to work. I walk my daughter to school (and my son will go there next year) and cycle to work. We will never need two spaces. Thirdly This was the way to maximise the chances of getting our dropped kerb application approved. Otherwise we would have had to remove two car parking spaces from the street. I also prefer the aesthetics of walking down a path to a front door. There is no chance we are re-doing our steps. They were expensive and have come out really well. Fourthly, I agree with this As practical as that is, we are a low mileage family and wouldn’t realistically do any sort of work on the underside of our car. I’m much more likely to be tinkering with one of my bikes in the garden. Although the sump plug access would double up as a ramp for the bins, perhaps the solution is to raise the bin area so that it is level with the raised driveway. We could preserve the “air gap” with the front wall of the house to avoid bridging the DPC by just creating a metal raised platform for the bin nearest the house. With the increased height to the window there is space to reduce the slope and just raise the whole sloped plane that is in front of the aco drain upwards. The bike storage will have to be higher up, but that isn’t necessarily a big problem as it is on the north side of the driveway so doesn’t really impede light into the window. By how much should I reduce the slope? I don’t mind having a shear drop down to the aco drain. Or could that be dangerous? I guess it depends on the depth of the fall to the bottom, but presumably we are talking about 50cm to 60cm max?

Thanks @Iceverge, here you go (the purple squares are to indicate two bins): Another consideration is that the higher (and more level) the driveway is, the more light will be blocked out of our front window.

It’s all very disappointing, because the setts are made by Marshall’s and designed for driveways, and I checked with them prior to ordering and their limit is 15 degrees, so I thought this (which is 10.8 degrees) would be fine. But I guess the forum agrees with my darling wife, and we will go ahead and do it. Two questions: 1) This gradient 1/5.33 or 10.8 degrees is clearly not acceptable. But what is the maximum gradient that would be acceptable. I ask because the more gradient we have the less destructive we have to be to other elements of the front yard. For example, would raising the bottom by 40cm make enough of a difference (gradient becomes 60/533 or 6.5 degrees). 2) what height fence can I have against my neighbour’s property in a front yard situation. I ask because my front yard at the bottom nearest the house, is only 7cm or 8cm lower than my neighbours’. If I raise the ground level by 40cm I will be more than a foot higher. If I then erect my fence off that, could they complain.