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the signal quality actually fluctuates between 90 and 100, though mostly stays at 97 or 98. The signal strength stays at 70, no fluctuation. That is on ITV. On bbc it’s pretty much the same. The picture issue I’m having is on both channels. Any point in retuning my TV?

Do these come in different qualities, like speaker cables? We’ve not watched any live tv since moving in 6 months ago, but watching the World Cup now, I’m noticing that once every so often, maybe two or three times a game, the picture cuts out for a second or two. The quality of the signal is otherwise excellent, getting clear crisp HD picture. Signal comes from an aerial on the roof, some 10m up from ground level. It travels down to a box that amplifies the signal as well as splitting it into three. This amplifier/splitter was recommended by my electrician and has really good reviews online, so I doubt that Is the problem. Then the cable goes from that, through the wall to a aerial outlet/socket in the wall. From there I have a 80cm cable connecting the socket to the TV. That cable is a couple of years old, but I got it from Richer Sounds (I think it is this one: https://www.richersounds.com/cambridge-vid100-1m-rf-coax-coax.html) the connection between the heads of the cable and the wall and tv are very tight. I thought this was a good thing, but I’m just wondering if maybe that is a fault in the cable and it shouldn’t be that tight? Is just odd that the picture is perfect, but gets interrupted every so often. Any ideas?

So I topped up the boiler to 1.8 back in August, and haven’t really touched it (or remembered to monitor it) since. Today boiler stopped working and reported low pressure fault. It has fallen right down to 0.2 or 0.3. I topped it up to 1.9 and its working again. Not really sure what is going on, but seems wrong for a brand new install not to have bedded down by now. Would you be concerned?

Worth also weighing up how much you will need to spend on therapy to deal with the stress from PMing.

I am PM'ed our project myself, with assistance from our architect whom I paid on an hourly rate to help out with PM as and when I needed him. My main job was ordering hundreds upon hundreds of things, sorting out returns, chasing late items, liaising with third party contractors and photographing things to send to my architect for his confirmation that it looked right. On simpler items I also checked my builder's work myself and gave him instructions when he didn't have any, but on the whole I was lucky that his workmanship was so good it didn't really need that much checking. I found it extremely time consuming and at times very very stressful, but I think this was because I was holding down a full time job at the same time, so I was regularly pulling 18 hour days trying to juggle both jobs. I was also completely gutting an existing 100 year old house and the rebuilding it as modern as possible. This was probably harder than a new build where you are building everything from scratch and aren't constrained by existing things, like the position of the sewage pipes, the electrical supply and the weird roof trusses the original builder erected 100 years ago. If i had my time again, I would have spent more on project management, but hindsight was not available at the time. The only thing the BCO did prior to completion was check the depths of our trenches for the foundations and require them to be made deeper at points before the concrete was poured in. He also raised a few issues with our drainage. There were a couple of structural bits I asked my structural engineer to check, but hardly anything. Depends how much you trust your main builder.

Okay, i think i have it working now. Shelly customer support thought that some of the messages I was reporting suggested an app issue so they asked me to reboot the app. When that didn't work I rebooted my phone and that fixed the issue. So it's now running and appears to work quite well. I had to increase the secondary loop pump speed from 1 to 2 which ups the power consumption from 37W to 50W, but I will live with that. I also had to increase the sensitivity of some of the sensors. Will report back in a couple of days.

Thanks @MJNewton but I’m still struggling. This is the list of menu options I see for my sensor: if I click “get actions” I get the “failed to get actions, please try again!” Message. If I click sensor settings, I get this screen: I’m really at a loss… shelly came back to me with some instructions which made no sense: “please open the motion sensor in the app, scroll to the bottom and press quick actions. From there yo can follow through the options to set up the link.” I went back to them to explain that the message "no devices found" appears on the "quick actions" page and they responded: “You may have your 1PM set up as a relay, not a light. So please select relay instead of light.” No idea what they are talking about. Where do I select relay instead of light?

oh bloody hell, i didn't realise i had to code this. I thought the app would just have some options allowing me to set it up. I'm confused where I input this code? I paste the above replacing the <ip.address.of.1pm> with the actual IP address of the shelley 1PM, but where do I paste it? What do you mean by this:

keen to insulate it as it's in the same room as our MVHR (there's less than 75cm distance between tank and MVHR unit), so i think it is warming the air coming into the house by a degree or so. Not a problem now, but annoying in summer. Other option is to further insulate the ducts of the MVHR. That might be easier i guess, but I've already bought the jacket and too late to return it.

I've rigged up a Shelly 1PM to my secondary circulation pump. I've installed three Shelly Motion Sensors in areas that would be triggered as one approaches three hot water taps in my house. All four devices are recognised by my Shelly iOS app and they all work, in that the app can see when each motion sensor is tripped and the Shelly 1PM can be switched on or off from the app. BUT... can't seem to get the sensors to activate the 1PM which was the whole point of this. In the 1PM settings, there is an "Addon Sensors" drop down menu, which presumably is where the setting is to be found, but clicking on that drop down reveals a message which says "Unsupported Addon, please update firmware". I have updated all the firmware (as far as I can tell) and no joy. Still having the same issue. Weird. I have contacted Shelly customer support, but they are a bit slow and this is bugging me. I'm not the patient sort!

Thanks. Any idea how big this is? I couldn't see dimensions for the amount of space this would occupy. Our "warmer" pump has already been boxed into a cupboard and this one looks like it protrudes out much more than the one we have, which is this one:

A number of members here recommend Wilo for quiet UFH operation. We have four pumps in our install, made by "Warmer". They are quite loud. The positions of these pumps means most of them are outside of a the bedrooms, but there are two in particular that can still be heard. One services three zones, total floor area of about 34m2. The other services 4 zones, total area of about 62m2 Which pump or pumps do I need? A quick search for Wilo pumps found a few different options: https://www.bes.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=wilo

"sport-immune" that's a new one. Does that mean you are a fat gitt? A made-in-China special. Thanks. Did you see my question about ease of installation and whether i need to empty the cylinder?

I have an unvented cylinder made by Telford called a Telford Tempest (indirect, heated by gas boiler). It currently has a cheap cylinder thermostat on it. I would like to cover the UVC with a jacket/insulation, but understand from posts here that it is not advisable to have a basic thermostat underneath the insulation as it will cause faulty temperature readings and that instead, before insulating, I should be upgrading the thermostat to a digital one. Please could: someone recommend a digital thermostat for such a purpose advise on whether I need to empty the UVC before switching out the existing thermostat with the new one, and how easy this upgrade is to do - is it something straightforward I could do myself (no plumbing experience and only basic electrics experience) or do I need a plumber/electrician. Hopefully this is something @Nickfromwales (commiserations about the football btw) or @Mr Punter can answer in their sleep.

The answer to the rather ridiculously open ended question you have posed is: You need to comply with building regulations. Now ask a properly particularised question and people can stand a chance answering it. To give you an idea of how open ended your question was, you haven't even told us what the scope of your "project" is. Is it a small replacement of some windows, an extension, a basement, a full new build?

Ok, will go with that. The bandwidth is limited to 100mbps, but I guess that shouldn’t matter too much. The alternative was to spend twice as much and get this, which was overkill: https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/18428-netgear-gs105pe-10000s/

So i've found a solution for 30 quid: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HSN5YSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A 13A power socket is available at the site, but I rather not use it as I have various other things that need power there and so using it will require bulky multiplugs. Query is whether to go with this unknown brand Linovision or pay more to get something better known?

So I have an issue I need to solve. The Cat 6 cable goes from my UD Router to a place where I need to split it into two cables, one fork to connect up to my iMac, the other fork to go to my bring PoE doorbell. I think I need a PoE switch, right?

I’m sure you are right. But then what do the little lightning symbols mean on ports 3 and 4 of my dream machine?

My router is actually a ubiquiti dream machine. If I use the spare PoE rJ45 socket on my dream machine router to power this Nanoswitch, can I then use the Nanoswitch to power a Ring PoE doorbell?

Smart bulbs use a small amount of power even when switched “off”. If every bulb in your house was a smart one, not only wood that cost a fortune in bulbs, but you would have a bit more energy consumption. Also, wouldn’t you spend a fortune on batteries for the switches?

That’s because if you cock up, a structure will fail/fall down. If an architect cocks up, generally the house will look ugly or let water in, so not as catastrophic.

This will work, won’t it: https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/31243-ubiquiti-n-sw/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA1ZGcBhCoARIsAGQ0kkoV3nM6y_72ejjL5lJSpUFuSAFX4obrMZkCoi1-JJvGbgR7JhM5U8IaAsqYEALw_wcB

Discussed with the boss, she wants something a little more consumer friendly looking. No idea what this means.

Most of my house was made in Poland (polish builders and lots of polish products). But I never though Poland was well known for this kinds of technology. Any experience of it? Where would I get it? The electrician is polish, so I might ask him.