craig

You can use a simpler method. All the integrated one is doing, is effectively turning a stopper to prevent the window going into the turn position and allowing tilt only. a simpler method is using a screw at the relevant point on the mushroom pin, preventing the pin going in the direction of turn/tilt.

Where did you get the door from? What is the make/model? Do you have any pictures?

Solar glass is a minefield of different options/coatings etc. I try to avoid it if and when possible (which isn't always the case) but options exist. Most glazing suppliers will offer solar coatings but not all do (such as Everest). Why do I avoid? Light transmission, Solar coatings really darken up the glazing units and I personally don't like the look. I'd much rather go for external shading components, such as trees, brise soleil, canopies etc.

It’s unlikely that they have, unfortunately, it will be within acceptable tolerances. You’ll need to ask what those are and whether they accept any liability. I suspect not. Don’t try and cut it, it’ll end up in disaster.

Old cottage you say, do you have any wall vents?

What Nick said.

It's about how it is worded, it is likely to be part of the wording for renovation replacement but if you could paste the entire wording for context, that would help. Generally speaking though, on a new build, it's inputting the windows, fixing method, PU foam, airtightness tapes and externals left to others.

Whats your location @Talaidh?

No, I leave that to those trained and qualified to install and maintain the products. Everyone “thinks” it’s easy to do but it’s far from easy.

We’ll agree to disagree.

We both could post examples all day, don’t deny it but it is a trade but I do agree that there is a substantial amount of unskilled installers.

Yip, trained on product and factory approved and GGF standards on installation. The problem of chuck them in and worry about it later. I’m not saying you’re not capable, I’m just saying in my experience it’s an issue. Additionally, warranties can be void as a result of not using an approved installer.

I disagree, your joiner and or yourself aren’t trained on the operational aspects and in my experience, it causes more heartache than paying an installation team. It becomes an issue when the installation team/supplier takes on things and expect the install team to do it. Not necessarily having the knowledge or experience.

Velfac/Rationel are notorious for suddenly knocking 5/10/15k off a price. To me, it’s taken the piss to see what they can get away with and completely dishonest imho. I’m not saying it’s them directly but give the best price that you can in the first instance.

Usually you just pop it out, window sits on the bottom hinge, you support the bottom corner (opposite side) then lift it out. You need to turn it outwards (clip) away from the frame, not in. I usually also turn the window, the push the faulty operation device to allow tilt to happen in the turn position. It’s easier that way. It’s pretty straight forward.

It’s possible but you don’t generally don’t get better deals by going direct. You might if they deal with the end consumer but they all tend to use official suppliers and do not deal with the consumer. Consultancy work is something I’m currently looking into but theres a lot of things to be considered. They’re just suppliers at the end of the day.

deleted, just realised this original post is 5 years old.

Ahh, that's a wee drive for me, 2 hours approx. If you can find the part numbers etc, someone local will be able to assist. I'm happy to help here when I can.

Where abouts in Scotland are you? I might be able to pop over and have a look for you.

The hinge should have some identifying marks or codes on them, they are egress easy clean hinges, you need to know the length etc and the part codes should give you what you need.

I know Paul well, anyone wanting a airtightness test, he is your man. Started the game back in the 80s before anyone else and his reports are spot on. You get what you pay for.

The principle is good but these are wrong, it gives a very false understanding. There is a tolerance between the frame and building, whether 5 or 10mm, there is either bracket install or screwed through the frame, so the tape needs to be able to bridge those areas. Covering the brackets correctly, ensuring the membrane goes from frame to building and 99% of the time, the airtight membrane is fixed to the sides of the frame not the face of the frame. A better video to watch would be the following.

It's the mechanism on the top hung, they generally aren't that great for weight, you're on the verge, if you want to send me a msg I can see what I can do to help.

Sorry, but whoever sold it to you, should be put in front of the firing squad. They just fail here in the UK, they are the most troublesome type of sliding door available. If it's a rented property, the easiest sliding door is what I call a gliding door (slides on the track, rather than lift and slides, or tilt and slides).

A different approach required then, as you're externally beading them, not much different to be honest, still use the glazing tape but on the face of the rebate, offer the glass up, then bead but I'd suggest drilling some angle holes to the front (slot left, slot right should be fine), no more than 30mm. You can bead the glazing beads with pins, but nice to have a little bit of space between the bead and the glass, just so you can put some soudal around, this will help with water getting in the glazed area but if it does, the slots would help with drainage. If you use the glazing tape, you'll also have a little bit of a gap from the frame to the glass on the inside, a little but of soudal on the inside as well around the frame/glass. Putty would work just as well inside and out (if you preferred a putty finish).