craig

@Hoops can you ket me know your location please? If you can drop me a message I’d be willing to assist as best as I can.

Agreed Also agreed. Also agreed. Well done, as that wouldn't have been an easy task. You did a good job there. The problem I have, is most installers will buy and will have a stack of straight brackets, you don't need to have anything fancy or expensive but just having a range of different options when you're buying materials is in my opinion paramount to having and taken pride in your work. They did a good job, it look pretty decent to be honest but it lacked professionalism and pride and they could have left a much better impression and saved a lot of headaches for others. Examples of brackets with cranks, they really do help.

As long as they follow the industry standard and recommendations set out as best practice by the GGF, then they shouldn't bend. Those brackets are by far the best window bracket out their to be completely honest but they should have used a 10mm crank bracket rather than a straight bracket and packing it out (but that is just my OCD kicking in).

We’re all middlemen for the main manufacturer, it boils down to how much the manufacturer supports the supplier or how much the supplier is interested in supporting the installers/end client.

You should have an aluminium window cill, it should have been fitted at time the window was installed and before rendering ideally.

Every system is different but between 3mm & 6mm. The space between the glass (spacer) is usually just below the gasket line or flush.

Glad they’ve taken ownership. What can be done? Not a lot really but they could place a bead of silicone under the gasket which would tighten it up and create a seal and make it a little more airtight.

I don’t I’m afraid. Call Fakro directly, they should be able to assist.

It’s not something I deal with a lot but i do tend to go direct but https://www.loftshop.co.uk/products/roof-windows appears to offer good options and prices.

@EinTopaz There's a couple of issues here tbh. It appears the glass is too big by about 3/5mm in width and height, when measuring, it would appear the have measured from bead to bead and not deducted anything and not said anything, take a bead off, and if the glass is to the frame, with no packers, that's exactly what they have done and I would be requesting they correct their mistake. Any movement and with the glass not being correctly packed, could cause the glass unit to fail. A double glazed unit will be 24, 26 or 28mm thickness, which consists usually of 2 x 4mm glass panes and 16, 18, 20mm spacer between the glass. A triple glazed unit at 28mm thickness, isn't going to be much better than a modern 2g unit in all honesty. Blue packer / glazing foam transport as @dpmiller suggested, the size of packers are defined in colour coding as standard, blue is 5mm, if they have used a packer here but I would have preferred to see some glazing tape. The glass can be up directly against the frame without a packer or glazing tape but as long as the gasket meets the glass externally. Whether it is a packer or foam glazing protector, I suspect the gasket isn't meeting the frame. green shims 1mm black shims 2mm white shims 3mm grey shims 4mm blue shims 5mm red shims 6mm Movement in spacer, this ties into point 3, this packer of 5mm appears to be an attemp to pack the glass, so that internally you wouldn't see any difference but just a suspicion, is there a gap between the frame and glass externally? If yes, then it explains the movement in the glazing bead imho. On the small angle, they have cut the bead to short and filled with silicone.

Anything,it really depends. Some are very limited on what they can offer and other cans supply 20% plus if they really want the job (they're basically buying the job at that level) and it leaves questions as to why and leaves a bad taste in my mouth. As they're clearing chancing there arms if they can offer it.

Trims 🤬 Trims are designed for one sole reason, hide things. I detest them but sometimes a necessity, a good quality mastic man can work wonders and if need be, rather than use silicone or PU foam you can you use a good compriband and this would give a really neat finish externally.

Just coming back to this, I have been given the following website as a good source of spare parts, some reclaimed parts some brand new by the looks of it and they do ship to the UK Part number 226693 https://fensterbeschlagersatzteil.de/MACO-Schlosskasten-fuer-HS-Getriebe-DM-275-PZ-Raum3R2/7 Part number 226693 (nothing found) Part number 368176 (nothing found) https://fensterbeschlagersatzteil.de/

Hi Jeremy, You can call Maco UK with the relevant part number and they can source it for you or alternatively, contact one of the agents for them (Katzbeck) in the UK who would be able to help (you were obviously able to remove and identify, I'm assuming you'd be OK with exchanging). It would be the cheaper option sourcing yourself (if in stock in the UK).

Ask if marine environment suitable, ask the micron level of the powder coating, is the aluminium preanodised or not. What is the weather performance test cert advising, hardware look for class 5. Secondly, marine environment, clean and grease your hardware and take/pay for any maintenance packages. Your hardware is going to perish, not a case of if, it will perish. So it is important to clean it and grease it. Inward and outward are suitable but depending on how exposed and quality of product.

I'd go anywhere from 2250mm to 2400mm (the latter being the average standard ceiling height), 2100mm is the standard door height.

Take them off, are there any part numbers to identify? I’m not 100% certain of the system.

Pas24 security in dwellings is all about the length of time it takes an attacker to circumvent/defeat the security, just the same as RC1, RC2, RC3, RC4 etc. It is becoming standard and it will become an insurance aspect (if it isn't already) for new homes, to prevent them having to pay out.

Do you see what I see? Installed in 1984/5 and there is no stub cill in sight, installed as they should be and front drained on the existing stone cill 👏👏👏👏

They are Gutmann designed windows, they're a decent product and I don't have a bad thing to say about Gutmann.

No, 25mm is a big gap to fill using PU foam, it expands and fills the void and is airtight as well and the time it takes to foam this versus using TP654.

Yes. It's how that gap is dealt with, it's a lot of PU foam and you'll probably be cheaper going with a product such as illbruck TP654.

Airtightness products are not a cheap option but you are installing good windows and doors, not spending the money on the i3 Illbruck around the window in my opinion would be the wrong decision. We are also adding a fourth to our installs now and that is ME501 VV 140mm externally. I'm not a fan of face fixing but it is fine to do it, I'd much rather it was on the sides and pinched in the corners. Why face fix? Side fixing means it gets in the way and it is easier to face fix after the window is added to the opening (in my view a lazy way).

Perfect and correct tolerance in most scenarios, 10mm with a cranked bracket is standard, especially when sitting behind the ingo/check reveal. If between the block/brick then you’re looking for 5mm and not 10mm but the detail here is important as 10mm might be best. The problem is the nozzle for the gun is 5mm.