craig

Any "gable" glazed screen floor to roof in my honest opinion should always be in curtain walling, it's what it is designed for. What you have with windows/doors being coupled and creating a glazed screen is deflection and loading calculations that will need to be confirmed for static reason. There may be too much deflection with a coupled system meaning additional strengthening is required and can then become quite bulky. Curtain walling is what is and can incorporate other systems and opening windows etc, inside and is the best solution but not the cheapest.

No problem, I can most likely do this in an aluminum only system but it would be very expensive. The risks involved in logistics, lifting, transportation, installation are astronomical.

Truth be told, you'll struggle to get someone to do this for you, most will stop at 1m width, 3.5m height or 3.5m width and 1m height others can achieve slightly more and some will achieve a little more. In diagram below, this is max height/width triple glazed as standard 3.92m. You also have to take into account the maximum weight that the system can take, timber frames might only be able to take 400Kg

This likely to be lateral movement (side to side on the top hinge. Give it a half turn, then check.

It’s a case of get your point across, ask for a review and from glass supplier and if no movement, check if they are GGF nembers . Get in touch and make the complaint to them. They will assist, they’re good. If that fails, arbitration from 3rd party industry experts. If the supplier is good, they’ll pass on any cost savings for expert witnesses. If that fails, it’s the legal route. All of this is pretty subjective and could go either way. if it was us, I’d not be happy and I would fight your case with glass supplier.

The rule is looking through the glass not at the glass, it is excessive roller wave tbh. It is during toughening process that is caused. The heat-treating process can reduce it but issues must be addressed such as conveyor, furnace temperature, quench. However, it cannot be completely eliminated, only reduced. In my opinion, it appears excessive.

Yip, roller wave.

Not looked at video yet but I would guess roller wave a common occurrence when treating the glass. Will come back to you once I watch video/view pictures and if it is, supplier should have glass replaced.

All I can say is, every BCO is different and how the interpretation of the standards is undertaken. I would say have a look at the topic here for further assistance, but as a side note, RC2 and RC3 are acceptable for entrance doors, supply the documentation and evidence available is paramount.

Ahh OK, sorry, only guy I could suggest will only tackle new builds now.

New build or refurb?

Where are you based?

M2 is irrelevant tbh, the size of units, access, equipment, labour all need to be taken into account. £4.8k and 44m2 is open to interpretation, without all the relevant knowledge required, it’s a wild guess if fair or not.

Your supplier will or should specify safety glass but there is no regulations yet on the middle pane of glass in a triple glazed unit. Only the inner and outer panes. To save cost, some will leave this as float glass, others will have the middle pane as safety glass (toughened). Basically, if it breaks it’s at your cost. Large panes will already have safety glass factored in dependent on location (not necessarily the middle pane).

Personally, make sure that all glazing panes are safety glazing at a minimum, no ifs or buts. If the middle is float that is susceptible to breakage and not covered under warranty (thermal stress fractures for example), if the door is slammed shut it could crack and for the sake of a couple of quid. It could save you heartache later (less likely to break if safety glass in the middle).

1:They have no clue what they have said. They say they offer concealed or face drained, then say weep vents should be in masonry 🤦‍♂️ Weep vents should be in masonry, terminology here is important and your builder should know better tbh but so should the origin supplier. Drainage is the key terminolgy difference. Face drained is what your builder is referring to. I can’t answer the threshold detail but I would, you need to ask this specifically and make sure threshold is mentioned for the doors and ask them to confirm how these drain. 2: The cill should have a 30mm projection past the masonry, unless a stone or brick cill is being used, then it’s down to detail. 3: 10mm between brick is standard, that’s all around (i.e. 5mm left, right, top, bottom). 15mm is a bit much and 20mm would be too much.

Read your warranty, it’s probably already invalid 😉

Only in England and Wales.

On a new build, not really. There’s a few things to consider. Bracket size, most are 10mm cranked 2mm on frame, 2mm on building, 6mm of a crank. PU foam nozzle is 5mm. Some prefer 12mm tolerance.

Exactly this.

Supply only or supply and install? Whats the difference? It depends. 1: Supply only, you’re supplying all the measurements, you’re supplying the specs, the supplier processing your requirements and you taken on everything. 2: Supply and install, whats different to the above? Your build, whether timber framed/brick and block or ICF for example. 90% of times ordering based on planned/built sizes is perfectly fine. The only time you can get things wrong or should, is when you take into account floor levels and thresholds. 3: Supply and install, surveyed. You’ve just delayed your build by 10 weeks. You’ll need to have confirmed you’re using said supplier and install team. No else in their right mind would use someone elses survey.

I'd like to see more along the bottom, sides, and picture externally. I suspect water has been trapped at the back of the easy clean hinge and pooled and obviously worked it way into the wood causing the damage seen, as the drainage slot that runs underneath the hinge has been blocked (bad design in my honest opinion). However, the frame is compromised and so is operating that window, I wouldn't open it until it has been inspected, the majority of weight of the sash is on that bottom hinge. On the other side (handle side), it looks like water has been pooling at the vertical and horizontal junction. How old is the window? When was it installed? I'd be looking out the warranty, did they supply and install or a separate installation team? Did you own the property when the windows were installed? My honest opinion is twofold. 1: Poor design 2: "Potential" installation issue. I don't see a cavity issue at present but that's not to say it cannot be ruled out but I suspect you'll be paying for a replacement.

Egress easy clean stay hinge. The part in question is essentially a push button that allows you to slide the window along to one side when the top and bottom are engaged and you pull the top/bottom along. It's so you can clean the windows from the inside. The manufacturer should be stamped on it with part number but if not, you might be able to find the long-stay hinge online but I'd contact a local repair company so that they can do it for you (looking at picturs, it would be the best option).

Fensa, if they are registered but you could also ask a reputable company or a 3rd party independent surveyor.

I have to at this point advise that is something they would need to take up with a professional inspection, due to the nature of how things may proceed. Whether GGF members or not, it’s very common for the guidelines set out in the GGF documents to be followed by pretty much all suppliers and often referred to even when not members. These guidelines are pretty standard, also similar to European guidelines tbh.