craig

Is it just aluminium? Sleek look with minimal sightlines. You’re looking something like Solarlux Cero, Cortizo, Q-Fort, Reynaers, Schuco etc. These can be a bit pricey.

They are tbf.

I hate to say it, we don't have the standard of workmanship or mass builders capable of achieving it. Training the trades will take a long time and a lot of "we know better attitude". All of them do the builds on the cheap, cut corners where and when they can. As an example, I wouldn't trust Bellway to run a bath. Smaller more independent builders have come a long way but in my opinion, we are still miles behind achieving anything like this on a mass scale. The recent warm grant scheme should highlight the amount of charlatans that are around.

Oh I do not disagree, it’s a ****ing eyesore.

I’m of two opinions. 1: not much wrong here tbh, it is how uPVC windows are installed as standard these day but @Nickfromwales solution is a good one. 2: Stone cills exist for a reason, they have a job to do and windows don’t always need stub cills.

I know of them but haven’t actually come across them yet. Sorry, not really anything I can add. As far as I know, this is their own system (Hyline) and not a profile they buy such as Cortizo. There are a few suppliers in the UK but not many are “main stream”.

It’s very unlikely the slab of the door is hollowed, it’s usually a solid slab of PIR with laminated timber either side. A smoke test will indicate where this is occurring. I do not suspect the slab but it can’t be ruled out. It’s usually down to adjustment being required as the door isn’t sealing correctly or it’s coming through the perimeter or through the glazing bead area, which is a possibility. .

I should be, but I’m not sure any exist that can help me, that new projects and a coffee can solve.

I need to give you a shout the next time I'm heading down the M6, which should be in about 2 weeks time. It's been too long.

Not that I can recall, I did something similar recently, it should be safety glass, so I would suggest laminated glass (toughened at least) and 6mm should be suffice.

I’m up for that, anyone else here in the land of Nessie in the central belt?

I’m in Chard middle of February, was supposed to be now but slight delay. Might take you up on that 😉

We all struggle, whether building your home, running your business or in life in general. Thanks for the shout @Nickfromwales, I’m going through a lot just now from my own projects, home, life and my mum going through chemo. However, I’m always available and happy to give advice and help where and when I can.

It is a different gasket that is correct, it's whether it has been added correctly. We're only seeing a certain section and not seeing it in person but it does "appear" to be stretched. Usually when a gasket has been stretched, it causes the "ripples" you see. It's very unlikely to be the route cause of condensation.

Add to snag list It should be dry sealed (gasket) or wet sealed (silicone) depending on system. Add to snag list.

You are correct but most in the industry refer to it as a hardwood on the basis it performs as good as/better than hardwoods and costs approx. the same as Oak for example.

Spec wise is doesn't look to bad to be honest, they're using Accoya, which is a good wood option (hardwood). I would see if a flush version is available rather than traditional stepped system (concealed hinges), other than that, it doesn't look to bad to be honest. Price looks decent enough for the size (especially with using Accoya), as it's the front door, either than or an alternative door will need to be Part M compliant. The threshold may need to sit 5mm below the FFL, you would need to speak to them (ask for the section detail and upload it here if you wish or drop a PM).

As you have a pull handle externally, ask them to supply a day/night latch striker. This will allow you to use the little blue switch by moving it up or down to enable day/night mode. When in day mode, you can close the door behind you, but you can push it open without having to have the key with you all the time (i.e. going into the garden/bringing things into the house). It usually comes with a cable to connect to a switch (like a door entry buzzer switch) but you can remove that as it's not needed.

If you're going direct, you'll find it hard to beat a price from going direct. Do you mind me asking who the Polish supplier is? If you want, drop me a message and I'll see if I can help.

That’s what it looks like from the picture.

Not really, the compriband is stuck to the window frame and only expands to the building.

I can assure you, they absolutely hate having to do it and will charge to apply it. I prefer to source it direct, that way I know the install is with products I have discussed. They would rather not apply it, they'll try and offer alternative solutions but compriband, airtight pu foam, airtight membrane is the way to go.

Without seeing in person, it sounds like they may be been stretched slightly and then shrunk causing the issue you see in picture. Is it the root cause of condensation? Hard to say as @Nickfromwales said, were these built on site?

Breathable Water repellent Acoustics Thermal Are just some of the key benefits and why it is the preferred option for most suppliers/manufacturers.

It's a generic name for compressed foam that expands, originated in Austria in the 50s or 60s if memory serves me correct. Some are very good (Illbruck for example) others are just 💩