craig

It's about how it is worded, it is likely to be part of the wording for renovation replacement but if you could paste the entire wording for context, that would help. Generally speaking though, on a new build, it's inputting the windows, fixing method, PU foam, airtightness tapes and externals left to others.

Whats your location @Talaidh?

No, I leave that to those trained and qualified to install and maintain the products. Everyone “thinks” it’s easy to do but it’s far from easy.

We’ll agree to disagree.

We both could post examples all day, don’t deny it but it is a trade but I do agree that there is a substantial amount of unskilled installers.

Yip, trained on product and factory approved and GGF standards on installation. The problem of chuck them in and worry about it later. I’m not saying you’re not capable, I’m just saying in my experience it’s an issue. Additionally, warranties can be void as a result of not using an approved installer.

I disagree, your joiner and or yourself aren’t trained on the operational aspects and in my experience, it causes more heartache than paying an installation team. It becomes an issue when the installation team/supplier takes on things and expect the install team to do it. Not necessarily having the knowledge or experience.

Velfac/Rationel are notorious for suddenly knocking 5/10/15k off a price. To me, it’s taken the piss to see what they can get away with and completely dishonest imho. I’m not saying it’s them directly but give the best price that you can in the first instance.

Usually you just pop it out, window sits on the bottom hinge, you support the bottom corner (opposite side) then lift it out. You need to turn it outwards (clip) away from the frame, not in. I usually also turn the window, the push the faulty operation device to allow tilt to happen in the turn position. It’s easier that way. It’s pretty straight forward.

It’s possible but you don’t generally don’t get better deals by going direct. You might if they deal with the end consumer but they all tend to use official suppliers and do not deal with the consumer. Consultancy work is something I’m currently looking into but theres a lot of things to be considered. They’re just suppliers at the end of the day.

deleted, just realised this original post is 5 years old.

Ahh, that's a wee drive for me, 2 hours approx. If you can find the part numbers etc, someone local will be able to assist. I'm happy to help here when I can.

Where abouts in Scotland are you? I might be able to pop over and have a look for you.

The hinge should have some identifying marks or codes on them, they are egress easy clean hinges, you need to know the length etc and the part codes should give you what you need.

I know Paul well, anyone wanting a airtightness test, he is your man. Started the game back in the 80s before anyone else and his reports are spot on. You get what you pay for.

The principle is good but these are wrong, it gives a very false understanding. There is a tolerance between the frame and building, whether 5 or 10mm, there is either bracket install or screwed through the frame, so the tape needs to be able to bridge those areas. Covering the brackets correctly, ensuring the membrane goes from frame to building and 99% of the time, the airtight membrane is fixed to the sides of the frame not the face of the frame. A better video to watch would be the following.

It's the mechanism on the top hung, they generally aren't that great for weight, you're on the verge, if you want to send me a msg I can see what I can do to help.

Sorry, but whoever sold it to you, should be put in front of the firing squad. They just fail here in the UK, they are the most troublesome type of sliding door available. If it's a rented property, the easiest sliding door is what I call a gliding door (slides on the track, rather than lift and slides, or tilt and slides).

A different approach required then, as you're externally beading them, not much different to be honest, still use the glazing tape but on the face of the rebate, offer the glass up, then bead but I'd suggest drilling some angle holes to the front (slot left, slot right should be fine), no more than 30mm. You can bead the glazing beads with pins, but nice to have a little bit of space between the bead and the glass, just so you can put some soudal around, this will help with water getting in the glazed area but if it does, the slots would help with drainage. If you use the glazing tape, you'll also have a little bit of a gap from the frame to the glass on the inside, a little but of soudal on the inside as well around the frame/glass. Putty would work just as well inside and out (if you preferred a putty finish).

Is the inside view or the external view?

Forgot to say, good job on the frame, looks good.

Unlikely, just ensure you leave enough space from the frame to the glass, 5mm or 6mm would be recommended. Put glazing tape around the frame, where the glass meets the frame (face), externally seal with silicone (soudal) on the inside use soudal as well and you can hide the fixing nail for the bead (see below) Externally, you will need a drip rail on the frame, so that the water doesn't pool at the frame/glass. Have you allowed for any drainage if water gets past the silicone/putty and in the rebate area? The frame rebate is flat, so the water would pool and rot eventually, you should allow it to drain through the frame and out the bottom at the front face (som drill holes) and then put some cover caps on it.

That's slightly incorrect, things have changed. Pre 2022 in England and Wales Window and doors with 60% glazed area 1.2 W/m2K Other doors 1.0W/m2K Upper limit all windows and doors (average/weighted) 1.6 W/m2K Post 2023 (June) All aspects, 1.4 W/m2k https://www.bwf.org.uk/bwf-blog/updated-requirements-for-u-values-in-new-build-and-existing-dwellings/ Scotland Target U value of 1.4W/m2K and upper limit (average/weighted) 1.6W/m2K https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2022-domestic/6-energy/6-2-building-insulation-envelope/

Sometimes easier to call the suppliers/manufacturers direct, they won't list them on Gumtree or ebay (not always), they tend to sit in storage in the hope they can recover their losses at some point. That and they don't like to advertise that they ****ed up.

Fantastic, glad to hear it. My only request is a pit stop and a coffee whenever I'm up/down the M1/M6 lol