Andeh

Could be a risk you call him out, force him to get permission/remove it... And you block your own ability to install one in future. Could you wait until you put your plans in, cite his as precedent to ensure yours goes through?

Thanks Dave, this was one that I was looking at before I realised we could just make them full floor to ceiling! They'd be minimum of 1.2m on low side and 1.4 high side but we'd then adjust the frame to compensate for glass that fits.

Hi all, We have 4 x bedroom gallery/mezzanines going in, making use of very high ceilings throughout the bungalow. For the balustrade, we would like 'floor' to ceiling glass panels, but I'm struggling to understand what building control will/wont allow. I will reach out to them to confirm if I have to, but I would rather keep my powder dry for now. Ebay have 1000s of stockists for 10mm toughen glass in dimensions that would work, so ideally I would like to buy a couple of the panels, a dozen of the clamps and get the builder to just put in a wooden frame. Secured to the ceiling and floors, for the glass panels to secure into. Similar to the attached stock images. I have found several lots like the below link, which states: Are glass infill panels secured into place correctly using the appropriate number of fixings? Clipped panels with no bolts through the glass, should be supported on more than just the vertical edges. This will ensure appropriate support to the panel that matches the life of the balustrade. i.e. For clipped infill panels – clips should be positioned around the periphery of the infill panel, at a maximum spacing of 600 mm. Each clip should be not less than 50 mm in length and should give a minimum depth of cover to the glass of 25 mm. Guidance for structural glass and balustrade design | LABC Minimum heights etc etc: bca_guidance_note_16_guarding_to_windows_with_low_cills.pdf (labc.co.uk) Does anyone/has anyone come across a similar designs, any thoughts on building regs for what this would fall under? ie toughened/laminated glass, any other quirky needs? Reason I ask is the bedroom galleries were fine with Building Control...but we nearly got caught out by the need for smoke alarms above AND below in each room...want to prevent a near miss on this one as well Thanks in advance

It would need to be a very big roof. Probably talking 45 odd panels, some are 1.5sqm each ish....big roof required! Also what direction, if all facing 35 degree south unshaded is a big difference vs north facing with a chimney next to them casting shade!

Thanks all, the short version is it is all being wired 'for' but not 'with'. Lots of cable tucked out of sight until the time we choose to use them. Due to a bungalow with warm roof, there is no chance of ever routing future cables!! We don't own an electric car now, but in 10 years time i'm confident we will have a couple of them + visitors traveling from afar. Patio heaters etc were an easy choice with the extra cable on the drum we were having for the car chargers...again few £100 to install for it, whether we chose to use it is up to us long term. Have to admit, the ease of knocking them on for an hour as we sit on the patio is nice to have the option of. It's our forever home & 4 young kids mean we are trying to keep options open going forwards! Welcome any further experience/starters for considering 3 phase. I presume with PV etc you need the correct inverter for 3 phase v single phase? Same as per battery?

Hi all, Slight surprise when builder calculated our electrical load and now recommends we go 3 phase. Seems kind of obvious now that I think about it, but with everything else going on never occurred. Our budget is massively constrained (as per tradition), but having paid for 3 x Car chargers, 12kW ASHP, 2 x hardwired elec patio heaters, 2 x 16amp supplies for garden potentials (long runs, hot tubs, etc etc - long term potentials) and 4kW on roof (but designed to extend to 8kW) it seems a shame to not connect them one day. The house has the 100amp mains cable from meter to fuse box loose installed, and electrician is recommend running 2 more 'positive' cables between meter & fuse box, that could be connected up to a 3 phase meter one day. Then ducitng under the driveway to the incoming supply to enable DNO to make the run if/when we decide to upgrade it. Does this sound sensible? Any experience of going 3 phase from people? The house opposite (30m away) has 3 Phase installed, if that makes any difference? We are with Western Power, village location.

Just be mindful, asking brickies to do anything other then the norm is like swimming up stream...

Just to only agree with comments above, we are 75% the way through construction on a big and complex bungalow with a high spec, and we are at £2300psqm. Midlands located, fully builder managed. Yours should be doable block wise for half your QS stated costs IMO.

Going through this right now. We both (expletive deleted)ed it up due to an emergency change in direction on the project mid way through planning the electrics... And we never went back to it till electrician was on site. It's bloody expensive now....

For a £80 call out fee, I'd do down that route. That's not an unreasonable fee by a long shot.

Please post up more... Flat roof.... 600sqm...25kwh of storage.. Wowee.... Prob need around 16kw of pv to make the most of that! Your DNO needs approaching ASAP on permissions... Some can be several weeks behind on their workload....

Congratulations... Its good to know this eventually comes to an end!! Long. Old. Slog.

No alexa? No energy monitor? No TV screen? No powered external hard drive? No second phone charger? No spare socket for when you need to hoover the room? No mouse charger dock? No contingencies!? Not trying hard enough.

As above, dig out, buy MOT, lay min 150mm, hand tamp it down well, then full mortar base on top.

This is pretty much what we are doing!

Thanks Nick, appreciate the thoughts & given me something to think about. I was intending to double up on the insulation on the ducting internally anyway (and did so on the wall mounted ducting for our 2nd MVHR), however following your point out, I will triple layer it to try and improve as best I can!

Hi Dean, you and I are obviously kindred spirits! I went through all of this last week, as the thought of cutting through the roof had me in cold sweats & sleepless nights, but we had no option of sideways venting. MVHR supplier/fitter let me down due to a miss communication between him & builder, and I saved £3k doing it myself vs going through builder's normal supplier...so I own the job/risk, having never done this before. Hence belt, braces & everything on top. Space was also an absolute bastard, and slanting roof, and awkward joists/wall config meant I risked having a low point in my ducts for any water to settle into. I used the below onto the joints I made, and then again on the roof whilst we wait for the roofers to come back to make the 'sleeve' as the final covering. A very wet weekend showed no leaks, and some close up investigation of it showed it to be very robust & confidence inspiring at preventing water ingress. Ill smudge on a second coating for good measure later on down the line, but even as a ''temporary'' solution, its great stuff! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-EB25-Ultimate-Adhesive-Cartridge/dp/B07T76J481/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=OQXA6AYBIWBC&keywords=Everbuild%2BEB25%2BGrey&qid=1673276197&s=industrial&sprefix=everbuild%2Beb25%2Bgrey%2Cindustrial%2C70&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Notes: 1) Yes I know they aren't dead straight, they look(ed) fine in person until I noticed them in that photo!! fecking spirit level broke on me (joys of working on the roof) and I should have ceased work until i got a new one, tired, stressed & fed up of worrying about it...oh well! 2) The duct lids are pushed far down, as they need trimming down & adjusting before commissioning in another couple of months. Ill let them sleeve them, then trim to 150mm off the roof and secure them properly once done. 3) ill be finishing off insulating it tomorrow & trying to tidy it up a bit. (ignore what looks like a split, that's an odd hair/branch thingy making it look like its split..... Its all 100% smooth sealed)

But then its a 20 year life span for a deep sea wind turbine according to Google, which are full of complex multi material composite components with no recyclablility at all, that are miles offshore. OK its not nuclear waste (quality of headache) but there are 100x more of then (quantity of headache). When these wind turbines need decommissioning I'm confident they will cause more 'environmental harm' then the equivalent nuclear waste per MW.... Until cheap energy storage becomes available, no energy source has the answer, and a mixture is required... Nuclear though has the reliability, robustness and longevity more then any other 'minimum baseload' generation sources.

We considered one for a very short amount of time... Then went down the A2A route. Just because massively improved performance for a reasonable (but not massive) cost in the rooms where it mattered. Rest of the house will be fans and ASHP cooling.

Thanks john! That sounds fair

Thanks very much all! I am leaning towards just leaving it more & more. Out of curiosity, does it come with any WIFI monitoring adjustments?

I have an enthusiastic amateur attempt, but we are mid build. Basically check 2 to 3 times a week with expanding foam and silicone.... And look for every nook and cranny internally and externally which could allow air to pass through. Then a Liberal amount of expanding foam, then silicone over the top of it when dry.

Just in case, I was warned by plumber copper pipes degrade in (acidic?) expanding foam... So ensure no exposed copper pipes are there!!

Left out filter or didn't close filter door? Car flap open?

Did you ever get to the bottom of this tomaus?