steveoelliott

Finding good roofers, flat or otherwise is a real challenge... I'd like to replace my pretty new flat roof with a GRP one but finding somebody decent with a conscience to do it is a real challenge.

Thank you... Given that mine are already full of existing sand, should I just use cement on the top of that or still make a mix? Also at roughly what ratio? I'd test on a small area first where say my bin store is

Hi, Just over a year ago, we had our drive jet washed and sanded... Ever since every time it rains heavily we end up with some of the sand coming out of the joints and it winds up all over the stones / drive. I've been told we should have sealed the drive to prevent this but I'm plenty don't have their driveways sealed. After this happens, once dry, I normally sweep the sand back in and add a top up of kiln dried sand if necessary, filling the joints until they are level. However, when it next rains the same thing happens. Obviously the last few days have been rather wet so this has happened once again. Am I doing something wrong here? Should the joints be filled level? I wonder if I might be adding "too much" sand and perhaps should allow the joints to be filled a few mm below the blocks. Thanks in advance...

I'll keep an eye... The plumber supplied and fitted the radiator and TRV so if it get's worse, I'll have him remedy.

Thanks again for your response Nick... Nice to hear from you. The chap is in his late 30's like me so maybe the guy he did his apprenticeship with many years ago swore by this over PTFE. Reading online there is some debate about which is better but I think PTFE looks neater. I'm not sure the stringy stuff actually is hemp, it looks white and stringy on the joints but I know Boss white was used as I saw the tub. Is the discoloration anything to be concerned about or just a little seepage before the joints / threads sealed? The radiators are Henrad which I understand is a good quality radiator made by Stelrad. They came from a decent plumbers merchant.

Hi, I had a new radiator fitted around a month back and I've noticed the joints which are sealed with Hemp / Boss White appear to be slightly discoloured / rusty. This might simply be a little seepage before the joint sealed etc as there is not weeping from the joint that I can see / feel. Is this normal / expected? Might seem paranoid, but I'd rather get something resolved now rather than have a rusty radiator several months down the line. I'm surprised Hemp / Boss White is used these days but many folks seem to swear by it. Thanks...

Hi, I have what I believe is a quartz worktop in our kitchen (inherited from previous owners) and there is a joint adjacent to the sink that could probably do with renewing as some is missing. The question is, what type of sealant is this? Seems like silicone to me but clearly nicely color matched. I'm also wondering on the best technique to renew where needed. Raking out I imagine is easy with a Stanley blade etc but to renew i'm not sure how to best to get the jointing compound back into the joint neatly. I may consider finding a local worktop company to assist but it is a tiny job Thank you.

That does look smart for a utility!

It is crazy how much firms charge for bespoke furniture but I think most of it is actually labor costs and funding glitzy showrooms / vans etc. The imminent recession might change prices a little. I'll look up those names and see what we can find. That's a great idea getting a car body shop to spray the items. Did they do the prep too or did you do that?

Walk in wardrobe

Thanks for being candid... That said I have seen this range in the showroom and it does look less Travelodge and more befitting a home environment. The challenge is where to get decent furniture. I'll have a hunt for up-cycled online.

I see your point but we have struggled to find decent quality / durable furniture that we like. A lot of the high street stuff is really flimsy and I detest IKEA. I must say I was quite impressed with the durability of the furniture in the showroom; it felt solid. Now I know I am paying over the odds and potentially a local firm could do a better deal and I may well explore that option too.

I had Hammond's come out following a show room visit to quote for some bedroom furniture. Most of it will in fact not be fitted. We are having 2 bedside tables and a cupboard with a seat that will be freestanding, although I requested the rears be cut to go over the skirting profile. In addition there will be a dressing table, chest of drawers, mirror and a stool. The items of furniture that will be fitted are the dressing table and chest of drawers. The designer recommended this and stated they would insist on it owing to the height of the drawers (not that I think they would easily fall over). My reservation with having these items fitted is the fact we have just had a brand new carpet laid and we have been told we'd need to get the carpet rolled back to allow them to fit to the floorboards and then we'd have to get a fitter to cut and fit around them. This is of course doable but I am little reluctant to do so. Just keen to know others thoughts. Now at this stage not sure I will go with Hammond's and may see what a local independent company can offer. In case folks are interested, the proposal is below and priced at £3255.00 (with discounts).

I am very much coming round to this way of thinking... Of course if at some point the roof was re-done then this would be the time to make it right.

There was an iron railing previously but we are getting a new balustrade eventually. I trust myself not to hurl myself off it but I wouldn’t take anybody up / host on it. I just want to get it sorted / decide I’m going to live with it before getting it made / installed.

I do have slabs on pedestals. It hides it for the most part but it bugs me. Based on what folks have said though it isn’t really a problem but a cosmetic annoyance.

The issue is the outlet being higher than the membrane. The falls on the membrane look to be good.

Yes screws hold the handle to the door behind the plate.

Well... I don't suppose anybody knows a good flat roofer in the Northamptonshire area do they?

It bugs me immensely hence my intention to get it remedied...

Now that I have "tightened" these the handles do seem to hold a little firmer. Not sure I can be bothered with drilling them now but I can see the logic.

Hi Folks, Anybody know the purpose of this grub screw in the photo? Whether it is tight, loose or not present seems to make no practical difference. On some of my doors they have a habit of working themselves loose and need tightening every now and then. The handles are made by M.Marcus. I've noticed that some of the handles have play / movement in them, I presume this is simply down to wear on the spring etc inside. I'm not a great fan of these handles in general as they have a tendency to work loose on the door requiring tightening periodically but from speaking to some carpenters I know it is a fairly common issue. Thanks...

You aren't the first person to say that Nick but as it holds ~40 liters of water, it just concerns me that should it ever spring a leak it will be catastrophic and not just a few marks on the ceiling below. It's also irritating as whilst I do have slabs over the top if it now, in the winter or after it has rained you can see the water under the slabs and it even saturates the ones in the corner. Then of course it freezes. If done correctly and carefully I would hope to make the situation better with water draining off as it should. The issue is the outlet needs lowering through the parapet wall; it steps up to it. I do understand though that I could make something that is presently watertight, not watertight by disturbing things.

Do you have a picture from the outside?

I can attest to this having had an IKO Polymeric flat roof fitted with an outlet that sits a few mm higher than the membrane. I am not happy with the ponding water but have been told by the roofer and others that this does not present a problem. However, for me having ~40 liters of water on a roof that sits there for days is a disaster waiting to happen. Some say I should leave well alone as it isn't leaking but I am planning to have the outlet lowered and membrane re-sealed etc.