steveoelliott

Hi Folks, After taking down a couple of existing long Laura Ashley wooden curtain rails in our house, I've noticed that where the two parts of the pole screw together in the middle, the hole is now too large for the screw and it just turns. Probably a really simple solution but I am thinking wrapping some electric tape around the screw before attempting to tighten of stick a broken matchstick into the hole but the last thing I want to do is split the pole. Thanks in advance.

My dad in fact offered another suggestion which was to grind / cut back the crack wider and fill with some grout... Probably not the ideal solution as it's either rip the screen off or cut back. The cutting back to profile seems preferable to me.

It’s not something that I would take on as frankly I am useless at this sort of thing but I do have somebody I could ask. Appreciate your help.

Tile seems to be solid when I knock on it and not blown. I do think the skirting being installed the other side of the profile caused this as there was a ridge of tile there.

These are just standard white tiles and I wouldn't be that bothered re match due to where it is... The challenge I will have is finding somebody skilled and willing to cut it out with the profile in situ. I really seem to struggle decent trades and now most only want to do complete refits opposed to these smaller jobs. I had a plumber recently complain about having to refit a Mira shower of mine after some tiling jobs stating that he hates maintenance jobs as they take too much time. My other option is to fashion a repair / seal but figuring out the best way to do it.

Another picture zoomed in...

Hi, Today I noticed one of the tiles in my shower enclosure has a crack in per the pictures below... I'm not sure how long it's been there but we haven't been using the shower for months as I keep meaning to get the seals replaced on the vertical uprights. It was whilst looking at these I noticed the cracked tile. I don't want to go down the road of replacing the tile as owing to it's location the whole shower enclosure frame etc will have to be removed to do it properly. As for cause, the only thing I can think of that happened recently was a tiny piece of skirting the other side of the enclosure frame was replaced and maybe whilst being installed the tile got cracked. In any case, we are now looking at how best to repair this... My thoughts have been the following. 1) Apply silicon over the crack. 2) Have heard some kind of epoxy resin might do the trick. 3) Clear nail polish. Now aesthetically it is not a big deal as it is right in the bottom corner. It's more about preventing water ingress. I'd welcome any other thoughts / suggestions. Another way might be to cover this with something so effectively water can't get to it.

Thanks Nick. Is there a separate overheat stat to the fuse in the exchanger? My understanding from Valiant is that once the fuse goes that’s it the boiler stopped working. My research before coming here suggested a PCB issue or wiring issue to the fuse but I am doubtful of those given how it is stable with lower temp. How would one deduce the pump was not working at full potential? It isn't making unusual noise and all 21 radiators get warm (albeit less warm with lower temp) but were piping hot before. Valiant do have a deal where you sign up for £50 a month for 6 months minimum and they will repair the boiler as part of that unless uneconomical. If it is you can break the contract and get all money back OR get 750 off new boiler. The challenge I find is most plumbers swap parts rather than troubleshoot.

Thanks... I'll mention it to the plumber to check. Presumably air getting trapped in the exchanger is a byproduct of a inoperative air vent? It is interesting that lowering the temperature seems to have offered a workaround for now. The boiler is 13 years old BTW and has probably worked quite hard with 21 radiators on the system together with a megaflow.

Interestingly, the boiler has been stable since I lowered the radiator water temp to 55 degrees. Clearly there is an underlying issue that still needs investigating. My plumber is supposed to be checking later this week,

Thanks... I plan to actually get a local chap in that just does silicone sealing as I'm sure he will make a decent job of it. The concern I have with just clearing the bits from under the door opening is what happens with any other water that may get trapped.

Hi Folks, I was wondering if somebody can provide some steerage here... having recently had a shower enclosure re-tiled and the Showerlux enclosure refitted, I now know the way the enclosure is sealed is wrong. In part that is down to me as I did ask for all edges to be sealed but wasn't told this was a bad idea. It's only now I realise that very little only the inside of the enclosure should be sealed. The wall profiles had a silicon seal behind them top to bottom as well as being screwed (interestingly prior to being re-tiled these were just screwed). I think this is correct per what I've been reading. Now what I think should happen is all the silicone be removed from the inside of the cubicle (let's start fresh) and then put a bead in the corner and along where the shower base meets the tiled walls. Then on each of the wall profiles run a vertical bead up both inside and outside. The question is whether this should on the inside include the point where the wall compensator meets the frame (see pictures below). I think it makes sense to. I think providing I leave the the rest clear of silicone on the inside, any small amount that may get inside can run back into the tray. How much of the base of the wall profile / compensator should I seal (i'm sure some will say none). Interestingly I've read some posts where folks say seal the lot but then I can see how that may lead to problems. I would then of course seal along the cubicle on the outside only. Thanks in advance...

Thanks… noticed I’ve been left with this rough edge too (grout) on the trim where I’d expect a clean line. I’ll ask him to scrape back but not sure how that will work without damaging trim!

Hi, I've had my shower tiled and the guy doing it has made a lovely job of the tiling, used hardie backer boards / tanked etc. However, I am a little disappointed with the Silicon work in the corner. The corners are not grouted as apparently now you just silicon seal them. However, between each tile there is an indent (where the gap where grout would be I guess). I've asked him to come back tomorrow to cut it out, clean and re-do. You'll also see where the silicon has come away from the tile and it just doesn't look like a neat bead to me. I'd like it uniform. But... is there a technique to get a nice smooth line? He was using plastic tools which I imagine just push the silicon in when it finds a gap. Most folks prior use a finger!

Today ~9 days after the first event, the boiler once again shutdown with error F.76. Clearly this isn’t the thermal fuse and I be suspect if it is wiring given the fact that reset clears this condition. I have come up with a potential trigger however… Whilst the central heating side of the boiler has been untouched; I have on both occasions turned the water off for a period and drained some hot water. Once was as we were away for several days (I did turn off the H/W heating whilst away). On our return we hit this error 4 days later. Yesterday, the water was turned off and some H/W drained to replace a shower. We have a megaflow cylinder but not sure if that's relevant here.

I had a guy come out over the weekend to take a look. He took a video up on the roof and it is evident that there are a few areas along the ridge with loose mortar. I don't think the ridge has been done since the house was built ~1960 or certainly if it has it was a long time ago. The recommendation is the re-bed the ridge... whilst on the roof he also pointed out some areas of flashing around the chimney which have split so will be undertaking some proactive maintenance there too.

I have this in a couple of places in my loft (house built ~1960). I think it is pretty common. I am no expert but my understanding is that the felt is there to prevent wind / water ingress in the event you lose a tile etc. It's a secondary defense in effect. I would say the gaps you are seeing are normal; same in my loft where the felt has come away. Replacing the felt properly would require tiles and battens to come off and probably isn't worth worrying about in my opinion. There are alternative ways of fixing and some of the roofing folks on the forum may be able to better advise you here.

Opps, forgot to add picture to this!

Thanks... I had a couple of bottles of inhibitor added when system was drained to install a fancy radiator back in October. I'll take a look at the artcie.

Hi Folks, Last year I had one of my verges re-bed and consequently the end ridge cap along that verge was re-bed. I did consider having all the ridge caps lifted and re-bed but the roofer at the time said they were all solid and advised it wasn't necessary. Today I noticed some of the mortar between the 2nd / 3rd ridge has come away and is laying on the tiles (waiting to be blown off / fall down). Obviously this is something that will need to be remedied but I just want to gauge the urgency... Am I correct in assuming this does not pose a significant risk for water ingress / damage? This time will probably re-bed all ridge caps. Thanks...

Hi, Last night my Valiant Ecotech Plus 637 displayed Error F76. I power cycled the boiler and it has been fine for the last 24 hours having both heated water in the cylinder and the radiators in the house. A quick Google suggests this points to the heat exchange overheating. I spoke to my plumber who suggested to monitor it for now and the fact that the boiler recovered and hadn't blown the thermal fuse indicates it may be a transient issue. Personally I'm not convinced having lived here for over 2 years and it's the first time we've encountered it. Boiler is due for annual service next month so will have it checked properly then. Would welcome any comments / experience / feedback.

methylated So following another post here... I removed a section of caulking between the skirting and my wood flooring as it looked nasty. This isn't laminate flooring and I am told these are wood floors that can be sanded etc. I have noticed in daylight that where the caulking has been removed it has left some marks; either from the caulking or from me scraping it. The later is probably the case. Is there anything I can apply to this as to be fair it just looks like the top coating has been marred. I can live with it if not; it was my wife of all people that called it out lol. Moving forward to remove the rest, I will try some Goo Gone to make it easier... Somebody suggested methylated spirits but I am wary of using that on wood flooring. I have got an area in a store cupboard I can try as a test first though.

Well... this morning I was up bright and early so figured I try an area with a couple of thin metal opening tools (used for prying electrical things open etc.) I am quite pleased with the results... But I now see absolutely no reason for the caulking being used. This was before: The tools used: I should have taken identical before and after pics but they are the same pieces of skirting... I also did under the architrave on this section too. It took me around 40 minutes for this section so I have my work cut out. I was going very slowly / carefully. I'm sure there are better tools to use but I am wary of marking the engineered flooring. Are there any chemicals that would be safe to use to make this job easier? I have an area in a cloak room I can use a test first.

I agree 100%, there is nothing wrong with asking for this. At the moment I think the scales are very much tipped in the tradesman favor as in they can "choose" what jobs they want to take on. I suspect that will inevitably change in time and there will be competition for work once again.

Hi Folks, After reading other posts on here about the VCL which is clearly critical in modern construction, one question I did have is whether the presence of a properly installed VCL would in fact mask a leak in the roofing membrane by channeling water down the walls. I speak from some experience having had my previous membrane leak and the visible evidence was blown plaster on one of the external walls, with water tracking back from the wall across the ceiling. As it was a parapet wall, the copings were suspected of allowing water ingress prior to the membrane being brought into question. After the cavity below was found to be dry, the membrane was pulled up and low and behold, it had been leaking due to a failed weld to an upstand. Just curiosity really... Thanks.