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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. We used to get rest bends and cut the top out and sit a small size chamber over it notched and concreted in with a lid
  2. 2x1 slats anne 2x2 frame for me, raise feet off floor, spacer members against walls off walls, sanded and no treatment for me, did one 20 years ago in an accessible wetroom, still in perfect condition does get dripped on but dries out again
  3. Not the basin? You could add a p typw WC connector with a spigot and run a waste pipe from there to above basin flood level and fit a small durgo or tee off the shower waste pipe to one
  4. Is there a basin connected too?
  5. For me minimal topsoil, compacted and then lightly raked to form a tilth, then grass seed, 1/3oz per m2 , once 50mm high roll it, mowing regularly will kill most weeds, prick out any big ones by hand, once established lawn will be lovely, broadleaf chemical possible in the autumn, I avoid ryegrass mixes.
  6. Nothing lost informing your insurance company. Keep a log of photos. I like monitoring either with brass screws and vernier gauge or proprietary movement monitors, this is best done monthly over two years then make decisions
  7. I used separate lintels inside and outside, yes
  8. No, you should be OK, best claim it all at once and send a covering letter, don’t try to claim things that aren’t allowed to claim, all building materials are ok unsure about fees most built in things are ok but check
  9. Sand blast paint off , bit messy and will do it, prone to etch bricks and pointing. needle gun is a possibility but bit laborious if it was mine I would scrape off loose stuff, rake the joints hoping to find lime mortar, sadly unlikely then not remove paint I would go 200mm EPS with breathable render. If non breathable insulation you run risks but dewpoint will be in the very outer surface of the EWI in winter
  10. I did 500mm of quilt loft insulation both between and over the bottom chord of my trusses. I had a 47x50 rail stood on legs off the top of the trusses such that there was act-mm clear ventilation space above the insulation. Incidentally I also managed to get 400mm in the wall plate zone.
  11. Steel pegs in the outside skin. Window in the cavity touching on the back of the outside skin, nothing bridges my cavity, not even lintels 🙂
  12. I made my own door and had 30mm pir outside and 10mm inside 100mm overall thickness
  13. Problems could occur if you insulate as then their concrete floor would be even colder and potentially attract condensation on the undersidevabove your insulation. if it was mine I would insulate
  14. Where I am if you for pp advice you loose the determination date
  15. What happens to the walls?
  16. Cavity closers cause cracks or if blobbed and dobbed over draughts , I didn’t do dpc at my reveals as I couldn’t see the difference between the reveal and the face of the wall, bricks can get wet . I fixed my windows to the outside skin with the weight on steel pegs.
  17. I reckon broken bits of tile stuck in the overlap, could be wind uplift, cement lumps from manufacture stuck to the ridges in the overlap.
  18. Good idea, a better idea would be to take them out, remove the liner that will be bridging the cavity insulation. Then fill in the inner shin bit of the liner and add cavity insulation repair the outside skin
  19. Will they be all on, all off? Or say half of them on sometimes?
  20. You might not mean smooth, you might mean flat 🙂
  21. No point in injecting, need to tank over it all then I would physically cut in a dpc a tiny bit below the top of the tanking. I would use asphalt, poor alternative is bituthene.
  22. Carry floor concrete to just under door frames, silly to stop it on top of inner skin
  23. I think radon goes through polythene, even think poly and so you need vents and radon sump under the floor to catch and expel it. I hate closing cavities with blockwork and that is a no no proprietary cavity closers are expensive and unfit for purpose, I used sheet insulation. Aim for zero bridging and air tight. Don’t do dot and dab. I like fitting windows behind the masonry, ie in the cavity. See my site for pics and details.
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