Carrerahill

Remember to add some power to your island!

I pointed this out too, therefore, without knowing the background, seems odd the OP is touching it. I would be making sure it looked rather dangerous, then called out the water authority!

So it is a sewer? Why are you getting this work done then?

Copper and solder the lot. It is what I did. Looks neater too and is tried and tested, real-world long term.

Well, I am trying, I have to refill the burn pit with diesel every 6 hours... I have no idea why it won't burn!

What you have will be cement asbestos, contains a very small % of white asbestos, the least deadly, there is even an HSE document detailing its handling for the DIYer. I did my garage roof after watching the professionals doing a friends, they damaged a lot of it and dragged it up their drive leaving a trail of white dust, you tell me that is safe?!? I bought disposable overalls, I bought new filters for my mask, I wore old trainers, shorts and t-shirt under the overalls and gloves and taped my ankles & wrists (already going over the top). I did it on a damp day, and I had the garden hose to soak the roof. Using a crowbar and batten I levered all the roof fasteners out and lifted each sheet down one at a time and stacked them. I then set the hose up like a shower and stripped including having a cold shower outside, bagged all my clothes and overalls. I binned the filter and washed the rest of the face mask by sitting it in warm soapy water and rinsing it multiple times. I shall not disclose my disposal method on a public forum, and for the avoidance of any doubt it was not fly tipped or disposed of in a way that would impact the tax payer or an unsuspecting person. It was acceptable, until not that long ago, to be disposed of on farms by burying, or, scattering along farm roads to act as hardcore! It still goes on.

Only blue brown, white is allowed. There is an HSE document on DIY asbestos removal.

Agreed, looks like it was not ideal!

I honestly don't know as I only did a short, 1 week trial of power monitoring functions with mine, I wanted them as safety shutdown devices, as the Shelly PM has an overload mode where if they go over specified power draw they can open the relay. What you are discussing I am going to suggest is possible, I just don't know as I didn't intend to use this function although it was interesting monitoring some circuits for a while. ESP8266 - yes. RTC not on the ones I have, but maybe some do now?

I would not put on 40-fines if you are going to put decorative gravel on it, that will impede drainage, I would just put down hardcore and compact it to within an inch of its life, then place a suitable gravel on top. That is what I did on our drive and some 4-5 years later it still looking as it should.

On the cloud or export to HA etc.

Shelly PM.

I work in the construction industry, on the design side, between all the disciplines that work together to put a building together, things are forgotten or overlooked, I really don't think this is an issue, it is a variation for you, OK maybe there should have been something included originally, but 2 people missed it, the AT and the BCO, I know BC will accept no liability as they are not "checking" drawings, but they still didn't flag the requirement at the time. So, as for a claim, it is a no from me.

Any scope to bring windows in via an opening on the first floor with plant or hoist on scaffold?

I found plenty of supplies didn't actually insist on MCS. When it came to PV I always thought MCS was a complete money making scam. I installed my own PV system, therefore not MCS accredited, if I do say so myself, my install is better than the other 2 around me. Why? Time, patience and care.

This is an oldie, it went very well, been in and working since not long after the posts, away just now so cannot photograph but will get some taken and post. The light quality is excellent, no shadowing anywhere, all surfaces well lit, and the walls and floors all have a nice wash of light over them from the whole ceiling "reflector".

I had never done a roof before I built my garage and extension, its simple. Follow some typical details and you have a perfect roof, I actually claim my roofs are better than roofers due to additional steps I took. If he was a builder claiming to be an electrician or heating engineer I would worry but roofs are not complicated.

Speak to a commercial roofer, sounds like your roofer is a bit more, domestic, and not used to this, common for commercial roofs to be covered in plant. Bauder recently did a roof on a project I was involved in, between my mechanical colleague and I we designed loads of stuff onto the roof - PV, air handling units, AC etc. and as long as the contractors used the approved methods and materials the whole thing was given a 20 year warranty!

Deadly things, they are banned in places, were meant to be banned here, can't remember. I would not even own one. Edit: found this again: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-safety-alert-issued-for-angle-grinder-chainsaw-disc-attachment I believe, having searched, no reputable vendor will sell such a thing, only the Far East import and tat vendors.

Seasoned for 18-24 months they are fine. I usually burn oak, or birch but have some Larch and cypress - the Larch I specifically collect as it is good starter fuel or for a quick active fire with reduced heat output. The Larch and Cypress get 18-24 month seasoning and its great. Even after 1 year of good seasoning the Cypress can be a bit resinous. A good idea with Cypress and Larch is to get it get wet once cut. The rain actually helps the early process of removing the resin, I am not sure of the science behind it but an old Swede told me this years ago and I have to say, stuff that has been undercover more or less since felling, vs stuff that had some time in the rain was quite different in resin content. I agree it sounds counterintuitive.

Geocell?

The makeup will be 0.18 - the block on its own is not as good as that. If you can, use thermalite blocks on the inner, that will help too. 100mm con block, 50mm cavity, 50mm PIR, 100mm thermalite block gave us the requirement on a recent build (signed off last month) and we are in Scotland with more onerous targets to hit. I realise the whole thing is in connection with the floor and ceiling, but nothing we had was too bad to comply.

We have Solis, Solax and a Goodwe, they all make various sounds and whines. The very nature of inverting DC to AC involves taking it from the DC side, to AC, to achieve this and to make things more stable and keep the current down (higher voltage is easier to deal with than lower voltage and high current) they often have a circuit block which takes the voltage up to perhaps, 1000V AC and high frequency, that can then be smoothed and worked with, then dropped to just above grid voltage (or else the power would not leave the inverter). The circuitry at the higher voltage and high frequency block will whine, its basically an electrical buzz at 15-20kHz.

So within the draw-pit (you won't get a man in there!) you can disconnect the service, pull it back, dig down and form a duct, feed it in and remake. I believe any phone cable in there will now be dead, as VM switched to phone over the Coax network, so you don't even need the little silicone filled 3M crimps to re terminate, just undo the Coax. They usually used a shotgun cable, 2 side by side black, 1 phone 1 coax.

Go and build a system up yourself at Midsummer Wholesale and just get an idea of what the costs are. Or Solar Sparky - I think it is high. I think the survey should be excluded for an install that goes ahead, so should admin.