Gus Potter

I had one shot at capturing the facebook post.. it goes on for miles but have pasted the raw copy of it at the end. My own view as being a dabbling gardener in the clay soils in the central belt of Scotland, and coupling that with my day job as an SE who designs foundations in clay soils here is what I kind of know to get my garden to grow in clay soils. The drainage is always an issue. But lets look at what clay soils have and how to unlock the benefits. Clays soils in general are full of trace mineral elements that plants need. In some ways all you need to do is to break them up enough to allow the plant roots a fighting chance to access. I tend to use a bit of concrete sand and dig that in. A concrete sand is roughly 5.0mm to fines, readily availble and is maybe the best cost effective thing to use. Often it's left over stuff from a buld. Into that you can dig in your compost, or mulch on top. If you have lots of free draining soil (say a South Downs weak chalk.. my SE hat on here) then any nutrients get washed down quickly before the roots get a chance to capture it. In some ways you need the water to dissolve the minerals in the clay so the roots have enough time to take up the trace minerals. Am I making sense here? Forgotten account? Improving drainage in clay soil gardens in Scotland Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · David Gallacher · Admin · 2d · Ah, the classic "new build" garden struggle. It’s a common tale in Scotland: developers scrape away the good stuff, compact the subsoil with heavy machinery, and then throw a thin "carpet" of topsoil over a heavy clay base. Because clay is composed of tiny, flat particles that pack tightly together, it acts like a literal bowl, holding water right where your grass roots are trying to breathe. Here is the breakdown of what you’re dealing with and how to fix it. The "Clay Sandwich" Breakdown Description In this setup, you have a layer of porous topsoil sitting directly on top of an impermeable clay layer. In the Scottish climate—where "liquid sunshine" is frequent—the topsoil saturates quickly because the water has nowhere to go once it hits the clay "shelf" beneath. Pros & Cons Feature Pros Cons Nutrients Clay is actually incredibly rich in minerals and holds onto nutrients well. It’s hard for roots to penetrate, meaning plants can't access those nutrients. Moisture Excellent water retention; plants won't dry out quickly in a heatwave. Prone to waterlogging, "puddling," and root rot during winter. Workability The topsoil layer is easy to plant in initially. Dries into "concrete" in summer and turns into a "muck heap" in winter. How to Deal with Poor Drainage If your garden feels like a sponge, you need to break the "bowl" effect. Vertical Drainage (The "Airlock" Fix): Use a hollow-tine aerator or even a garden fork to punch deep holes through the topsoil and into the clay. Fill these holes with horticultural grit or sharp sand. This creates "chimneys" that allow water to bypass the surface and move deeper. French Drains: If the waterlogging is severe, you may need to dig a trench (sloping downhill) filled with perforated pipe and gravel. This redirects the water to a soakaway or a lower part of the garden. The "Rain Garden" Approach: Instead of fighting the water, embrace it. Dig a shallow depression in the wettest area and plant moisture-loving Scottish natives like Filipendula ulmaria (Meadowsweet) or certain Iris species. What to do with Topsoil over Clay The biggest mistake is leaving the two layers separate. You need to incorporate them to create a transition zone. 1. The "Dig-In" Method If the garden isn't turfed yet, do not just lay more soil on top. You need to mix organic matter (well-rotted manure, compost, or bark fines) into the clay layer. This is called "improving the structure." The organic matter acts like a wedge, keeping the clay particles apart. 2. Boost the Biology Apply a liquid seaweed fertilizer or a "soil conditioner." These encourage earthworms to do the heavy lifting for you. As worms move between the topsoil and clay, they create natural drainage channels (macropores). 3. Build Up, Not Down If the clay is truly impenetrable, stop fighting it. Build raised beds. By adding 20-30cm of high-quality loam on top of your existing soil, you give plant roots enough "dry" space to thrive above the water table of the clay. 4. Choose the Right "Thirsty" Plants In Scotland, you want plants that can handle "wet feet" in winter but don't mind the clay. Shrubs: Cornus (Dogwood) or Sambucus (Elder). Trees: Betula pendula (Silver Birch) or Sorbus aucuparia (Rowan) are hardy and help suck up excess moisture. More shrubs To thrive in the "clay sandwich" of a Scottish new build, you need plants that are "plastic"—meaning they can tolerate being waterlogged in a soggy January but won't give up when the clay bakes hard in July. Here is a list of plants that are hardy enough for the Scottish climate and the structural challenges of clay. 1. Trees (The "Hydraulic Pumps") These trees are excellent at drawing moisture out of the ground. In a small new build garden, look for "Columnar" or "Erecta" varieties to avoid overhanging the neighbours. Sorbus aucuparia (Rowan/Mountain Ash): A Scottish staple. It’s incredibly tough, handles heavy soil, and provides berries for birds. Betula pendula (Silver Birch): Naturally grows in damp areas. Its roots are great at navigating compacted soils. Amelanchier lamarckii (Juneberry): A "serviceberry" that offers white spring flowers and great autumn color. It is very tolerant of damp clay. Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn): Practically bulletproof. It will grow almost anywhere and provides excellent nesting sites. 2. Shrubs (Structural & Hardy) Shrubs for clay need to be able to handle "wet feet" without their roots rotting. Cornus alba (Red-barked Dogwood): Loves damp soil. The bright red stems look stunning against a grey Scottish winter sky. Viburnum opulus (Guelder Rose): A native shrub that thrives in heavy, moisture-retentive soils. Sambucus nigra (Elder): Extremely vigorous. Varieties like ‘Black Lace’ offer dark, fern-like foliage that looks high-end but is very "clay-hardy." Hydrangea macrophylla: These love the moisture that clay provides. In acidic Scottish soils, your pink hydrangeas will likely turn a vibrant blue. Rosa rugosa: If you want a hedge, this rose is incredibly tough and won't mind the heavy soil. 3. Herbaceous Perennials (The "Fillers") These plants will return year after year, spreading their roots to help break up that topsoil-clay interface. Geranium (Hardy Cranesbill): Specifically Geranium rozanne. It’s a workhorse that covers the ground and masks the cracks that appear in clay during summer. Persicaria affinis: A fantastic groundcover that forms a dense mat, preventing the topsoil from washing away in heavy rain. Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris): Unlike Mediterranean irises, these love damp, heavy soil and have structural, sword-like foliage. Astrantia major (Masterwort): Very trendy and very tough. They thrive in the cool, moist conditions common in Scottish gardens. Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s Mantle): It’s nearly impossible to kill. It catches raindrops on its leaves and self-seeds happily in clay. Helleborus (Lenten Rose): Great for winter interest; they have deep roots that can penetrate into the clay layer once established. Pro-Tip for Planting in Clay When you dig your planting hole, avoid making a "sump." The Bucket Effect: If you dig a hole in clay and fill it with lovely compost, you’ve essentially created a waterproof bucket. When it rains, the water will sit in that hole and drown the plant. The Fix: Always "rough up" the sides and bottom of your planting hole with a fork to create cracks for roots to enter, and try to plant "slightly proud"—meaning the top of the root ball is about 2-3cm above the soil line, mounded over with topsoil. Improving the soil Improving soil that consists of a "clay shelf" requires a change in perspective: stop thinking about digging deep and start thinking about building up. In Scotland, where the rain can be relentless, the "No-Dig" method combined with heavy mulching is actually superior to traditional digging. Digging often damages the delicate soil structure and can turn wet clay into a compacted, anaerobic mess. 1. Improving Soil with Compost & Mulch Mulching is the act of placing a thick layer of organic material on top of the soil. You aren't mixing it in manually; you are feeding the organisms that will mix it for you. The "Ooze" Factor: In a new build, the topsoil is often "dead" (low in microbial life). Adding compost introduces bacteria, fungi, and worms. How to do it: Apply a layer of well-rotted garden compost or manure at least 5–10cm thick across your beds. The Timing: The best time in Scotland is late autumn or early spring. In autumn, the worms work through the winter. In spring, it helps retain moisture before the clay bakes hard in July. Don't Skimp: A thin dusting won't work. You need enough mass to suppress weeds and keep the soil surface from "crusting" over. 2. The "No-Dig" Method The No-Dig method is perfect for clay because it uses gravity and biology to do the hard work. Instead of breaking your back with a spade, you create a "lasagna" of organic matter. Step-by-Step for New Build Clay: Mow/Flatten: Cut any existing weeds or scruffy grass as short as possible. Don't worry about digging out the roots. The Cardboard Base: Cover the area with large sheets of brown corrugated cardboard (remove any plastic tape). Overlap the edges by 15cm so weeds can’t peek through. Why? This smothers weeds and creates a damp, dark environment that attracts earthworms. The worms will travel up from the clay to eat the cardboard, creating drainage tunnels as they go. The Compost Layer: Spread 10–15cm of compost (green waste compost or well-rotted manure) directly on top of the cardboard. Plant Directly: You can plant your shrubs and perennials immediately by cutting a small "X" through the cardboard and tucking the root ball in. Annual Top-Up: Every year, add another 2–5cm of compost on top. Never dig it in. Why No-Dig is Better for Your Garden Feature Traditional Digging No-Dig Method Soil Structure Destroys natural drainage channels. Preserves worm tunnels and fungal networks (mycelium). Weed Control Brings buried weed seeds to the surface. Smothers weeds and prevents new seeds from germinating. Effort Back-breaking and messy in wet clay. Easy to set up; requires only a wheelbarrow and rake. Drainage Can create a "hard pan" (compacted layer) at the base. Gradually improves vertical drainage as biology improves. A Note on "Scottish" Mulches If you are in a coastal or rural area of Scotland, you might have access to unique mulches: Seaweed: Excellent for clay. It breaks down quickly and adds a massive boost of trace minerals. Wash it briefly to remove excess salt if you gather it yourself. Bark Fines: Good for aesthetics, but ensure they are "fines" (small pieces). Large bark chunks can temporarily "lock up" nitrogen as they decompose. The Golden Rule: Never walk on your soil, especially when it's wet. In a new build, compaction is your #1 enemy. Use "stepping stones" or temporary wooden planks to spread your weight when mulching. All reactions: 28 Sheila Sanderson As a young woman I attacked the clay pan in my garden with a pick axe. Broke the handle too. But the flowers loved the soil afterwards. 1d Emma Best Sophie Maria an article on Scottish clay soil 1d Other posts What is a good number of plastic pots to keep and are they recyclable? Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · Sue Scott · 1h · I know there's no real answer to this, but am clearing out my shed and I have hundreds of plastic pots does anyone have a rule of thumb number of pots that's worth keeping? And also are there particular sizes that are worth hanging on to? I'm thinking probably the small ones for potting on.... Also, are they recyclable?? All reactions: 3 Lynn Asher My local B&Q take them for recycling too 58m Jay Webster Put them on a freebies page as I'm sure they'll be snapped up. 58m Liz McManus I keep all my pots. I have reused them frequently and sometimes run out of pots even so! 1h 3 of 7 Building raised beds for vegetables in Scotland Summarised by AI from the post below Where Rain Dances and Heather Sings · David Gallacher · Admin · 2d · Raised beds ( vegetables ) In Scotland, raised beds are often the "secret weapon" for a successful harvest. They solve the common Scottish gardening issues of heavy clay soil, high rainfall (improving drainage), and a shorter growing season (warming up faster in the spring). Here is a brief guide to building and using raised beds tailored for the North. 1. Materials: Pros & Cons Choosing the right material depends on your budget and how permanent you want the beds to be. Material Good Points (Pros) Bad Points (Cons) Pressure-Treated Timber Good..Affordable, widely available, easy to work with. Bad...Will eventually rot (lasts 8–12 years); chemicals in modern treatment are safe but some prefer untreated. New Sleepers Good...Heavy-duty, long-lasting, provides a wide "seat" for sitting on while weeding. Bad...Very heavy to move; can be expensive; require long timber screws. Galvanised Metal Good....Modern look, won't rot, excellent heat retention in spring. Bad....Can get very hot in direct sun (drying out soil); expensive to buy as kits. Brick / Stone Good....Extremely durable (lasts decades), looks traditional in Scottish gardens. Bad....Hardest to build (requires mortar); permanent (impossible to move later). 2. Height, Depth, and What to Grow The height of your bed dictates what will thrive. In Scotland, a minimum of 15–20cm is recommended to clear the often cold, wet ground. Shallow (15–20cm): * Best for: Salad leaves, spinach, radishes, spring onions, and herbs (chives, parsley). * Scottish Tip: Good for early-season salads that you want to harvest quickly before the weather turns. Medium (30–45cm): * Best for: Carrots, onions, beetroot, garlic, and leeks. * Scottish Tip: This depth is ideal for carrots, as it raises them above the "flight path" of the carrot root fly (which usually flies low to the ground). Deep (60cm+): * Best for: Potatoes, parsnips, brassicas (Kale, Cabbage, Broccoli), and runner beans. * Scottish Tip: Tall beds are easier on the back and help hardy crops like Kale stay out of the reach of rabbits. 3. Step-by-Step: Building a Wooden Raised Bed For a standard 2.4m x 1.2m bed (the "golden ratio" for reaching the middle from both sides). * Preparation: Level the ground. You don't need to dig up grass, but it helps to scalp it short. * Cut Timber: Use four lengths of treated timber (e.g., 2 lengths at 2.4m and 2 at 1.2m). * Fixing: Use stainless steel or galvanised wood screws to prevent rusting in the damp Scottish climate. Butt the short ends against the long ends. * Support: Drive a small wooden stake (45cm long) into the inside of each corner. Screw the planks into these stakes for extra stability. * Fill: Use a mix of 60% topsoil and 40% organic compost. * Pro Tip: For deep beds, use the "Hugelkultur" method: fill the bottom 1/3 with old logs and twigs to save on expensive compost and improve drainage.( See below) 4. Lining the Bed Should you line it? In Scotland, the answer depends on your goal: Sides: Line the inside walls with heavy-duty black plastic or pond liner. This prevents the damp soil from being in direct contact with the wood, significantly extending the life of the timber. Note: Do not cover the bottom with plastic. Bottom: If building on grass, line the bottom with thick cardboard (remove any tape). This smothers weeds and grass but eventually rots away, allowing worms to move up into your bed. Pest Control: If you have moles or voles, staple galvanised wire mesh (chicken wire) to the bottom before filling with soil. Filling To fill a 1m x 1m raised bed, the volume is easy to calculate because the area is exactly 1 square metre. The amount of soil you need depends entirely on the height of your timber. Because soil and compost settle by about 10–15% after the first few waterings, I have included a "settlement factor" in the bag counts below to ensure you don't end up with a bed that looks half-empty. Soil Volume Requirements (1m x 1m Bed) Bed Height Total Volume (Litres) Number of 50L Bags Best For... 15cm (Low) 150 Litres 3–4 Bags Salads, herbs, radishes 30cm (Standard) 300 Litres 6–7 Bags Carrots, onions, beetroot 45cm (Deep) 450 Litres 9–10 Bags Potatoes, brassicas, beans 60cm (High) 600 Litres 12–13 Bags Deep roots & "No-bend" gardening Cost-Saving Tips for Scottish Gardeners Buying individual 50L bags can get expensive for deeper beds. In Scotland, many local "Landscape Supplies" or "Topsoil Merchants" sell Bulk Bags (often called "Dumpy Bags"). A standard Bulk Bag is usually 800 to 1,000 Litres (1m^3). * For a 45cm or 60cm bed, a single bulk bag is often cheaper than buying 10+ individual bags from a garden centre. The "Hugel" Base: If you are building a 60cm bed, don't fill the whole thing with expensive compost. Fill the bottom 20cm with fallen branches, old logs, and upturned turf (grass side down). This provides long-term drainage and saves you about 4–5 bags of soil. The Ideal Fill Mix For the best results in a raised bed, don't use 100% garden soil (which can compact) or 100% compost (which can dry out). Aim for a "Scottish Blend": * 60% Topsoil: For structure and mineral content. * 30% Multi-purpose Compost: For nutrients and moisture retention. * 10% Well-rotted Manure or Leaf Mould: To feed the soil biology. Hügelkultur (mound culture) or Lasagna method In a deep raised bed, filling the entire volume with high-quality compost or topsoil is not only expensive but actually unnecessary for the health of most plants. Instead, you can use the Hügelkultur (mound culture) or Lasagna method to fill the bottom layers with organic "waste" that will break down over time. 1. What to Use as "Filler" You can use various materials you likely already have in your garden or home. Layer these from coarsest (bottom) to finest (top). * Logs and Thick Branches: Ideal for the very bottom of beds deeper than 45cm. They act like a sponge, holding moisture during dry spells. * Twigs and Prunings: Great for filling gaps between larger logs. * Cardboard and Newspaper: A thick layer of brown cardboard (tape removed) at the base smothers grass and weeds perfectly. * Grass Clippings & Green Waste: These are "Greens" (nitrogen-rich) and help speed up the decomposition of the woody "Browns" below. * Inert Fillers (For non-organic drainage): If you just need height and don't care about the organic benefits, you can use upturned turf (grass side down), stones, or broken bricks at the very bottom (though organic materials are better for soil health). 2. The Layering Strategy Think of your raised bed like a "soil lasagna." Here is the ideal breakdown for a 60cm deep bed: * Bottom Layer (20-30cm): Large logs, heavy branches, or rocks. * Middle Layer (10-15cm): Twigs, dry leaves, grass clippings, or semi-rotted manure. * Top Layer (20-30cm): Your "Growing Medium" (The high-quality soil mix). 3. How Much Growing Medium on Top? The "Growing Medium" is the clean, weed-free soil/compost mix where the seeds actually germinate. The depth you need depends on what you are planting: Plant Type Minimum "Clean Soil" Depth Why? Salads & Herbs 15cm They have very shallow roots and won't reach the "rough" filler below. General Veg (Onions, Peas) 20cm Provides enough stability for the plant to anchor its roots. Root Veg (Carrots, Parsnips) 30cm+ Crucial so the roots don't hit a log and "fork" (split into two). Potatoes 30cm You need space to "earth them up" (add soil as they grow). Pro Tip: Because the organic filler (logs/leaves) will rot and shrink over the first year, your soil level will drop by about 5–10cm. Always fill the bed to the very brim at the start; by the time you plant, it will have settled to the perfect height. Varaties In Scotland, the key to success is choosing varieties that are "bolt-resistant" (to handle the long daylight hours in June) and "winter-hardy" (to survive the damp cold). Raised beds are perfect here because they keep roots out of the "cold-sump" of the sodden ground. Here are the best varieties for different regions of Scotland: 1. Top 5 Varieties for the Whole of Scotland These are "tried and tested" classics that thrive from the Borders to the Highlands. Leeks: Musselburgh – An iconic Scottish heritage variety. It is incredibly hardy and can stay in the ground through the harshest frosts. Kale: Pentland Brig – Developed at the Scottish Plant Breeding Station. It provides "hungry gap" greens in early spring when nothing else is growing. Potatoes: Pentland Javelin (First Early) – Great for raised beds. First early varieties are harvested before the "blight" season usually hits in the humid Scottish summer. Carrots: Autumn King – A robust variety that handles heavier soils well and is less prone to splitting in wet weather. Broad Beans: Aquadulce Claudia – Can be sown in late autumn to overwinter, giving you a harvest weeks before spring-sown crops. 2. Regional Considerations West Coast & Islands (Wet & Windy) The challenge: High rainfall and Atlantic gales. Vegetables: Stick to low-growing crops that won't be snapped by the wind. Varieties: * Chard (Bright Lights): Adds colour and stands up well to rain. Spinach (Emilia F1): Very mildew-resistant (essential for the humid West). Cabbage (Durham Early): Pointed heads that shed water effectively, preventing rot. East Coast (Cold & Dry) The challenge: "Haars" (sea mists) and biting North Sea winds. Vegetables: Crops that can handle a slower start in the spring. Varieties: * Broccoli (Purple Sprouting): Needs the winter chill to produce its spears. Onions (Sturon): Very reliable and rarely "bolts" even if the spring is erratic. Beetroot (Boltardy): As the name suggests, it won't go to seed if a late East Coast frost hits. Central Belt & Borders (Milder but Frosty) The challenge: Unpredictable late frosts in May. Vegetables: A wider range including some "tender-ish" crops if sheltered. Varieties: * Peas (Hurts Greenshaft): High yielding and sweet even in cooler summers. Radish (French Breakfast): Grows so fast (3-4 weeks) that you can squeeze a harvest in between frost snaps. 3. The "Highland" Strategy In the North, your growing season is significantly shorter. Speed is everything: Look for varieties labelled "First Early" or "Quick-Maturing." The "Poly-Crub" or Tunnel: If you are in the far North (Shetland/Orkney), use your raised beds inside a tunnel or cover them with heavy-duty horticultural fleece from March to May to "cheat" the climate by about 3–4 degrees. Location to build raised beds In Scotland, the "best" location is a balance between chasing the sun and hiding from the wind. Because the sun sits lower in the sky here than in the south, shadows are longer and the "Beast from the East" or south-westerly gales can do more damage than the cold itself. Here is how to scout the perfect spot in your garden: 1. The "Golden Rule": South-Facing In northern latitudes, light is your most precious resource. Target: Aim for a spot that gets at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight in the height of summer. The South Wall: If you have a south-facing brick or stone wall, place your beds against or near it. The wall acts as a "heat sink," absorbing warmth during the day and radiating it back at night, which can extend your growing season by several weeks. 2. Strategic Shelter (The Wind Factor) In Scotland, a "sunny but exposed" spot is often worse than a "partially shaded but sheltered" one. Wind physically chills the soil and "sandblasts" young seedlings. Prevailing Winds: In most of Scotland, the strongest winds come from the South-West. Use a hedge, fence, or the house itself to break this wind. Permeable Barriers: A solid fence can cause "turbulence" (the wind jumps over and dumps down on the other side). A trellis or a "hit-and-miss" fence is better as it filters the wind rather than blocking it. Avoid Frost Pockets: Don't put beds at the very bottom of a slope. Cold air is heavy and sinks; it will pool at the lowest point, creating a "frost pocket" that lingers long after the rest of the garden has thawed. 3. Bed Orientation: North-South vs. East-West This is a common debate, but for Scottish raised beds, there is a clear winner: North-South Orientation: Run the long side of your bed from North to South. The Benefit: As the sun moves from East to West, it hits one side of the bed in the morning and the other in the afternoon. This ensures that tall plants (like Peas or Beans) don't cast a permanent shadow over their smaller neighbours (like Lettuce). 4. Practical Logistics Proximity to the Kitchen: You are much more likely to use your herbs and salads if the bed is within "slippers distance" of the back door. Water Access: Raised beds dry out faster than the ground. Ensure you are within reach of a hose or a water butt. Carrying heavy watering cans across a boggy lawn in May is a chore you'll want to avoid. Level Ground: While the bed solves the issue of a slope for the plants, the timber frame needs to be level. It’s much easier to build on a flat area than to "step" the timber down a hill. Summary Checklist for your Scottish Spot: [ ] Is it away from overhanging trees? (Trees steal light and rain). [ ] Does it avoid the shadow of the house? (Watch where the shadow falls at 3 PM). [ ] Is it protected from the South-West wind? [ ] Can you walk all the way around it? (Leave at least 60cm for a path/lawnmower). Paths In Scotland, the space between your beds is just as important as the beds themselves. If you don't plan your paths, they will quickly turn into a "glaur" (a muddy mess) during the long, wet months between October and April. Here are the best materials for Scottish garden paths, ranked from easiest to most durable. 1. Woodchips (The "Natural" Choice) This is the most common choice for kitchen gardens. * The Build: Lay down a thick layer of heavy-duty weed membrane (not the cheap thin stuff) and cover with 10cm of woodchips. * Pros: Cheap (sometimes free from local arborists), excellent drainage, looks traditional, and soft on the knees. * Cons: Needs topping up every 2 years as it rots down; can become slippery if it gets "slimy" with algae in deep shade. * Scottish Tip: Use bark nuggets rather than fine mulch; they last longer in high rainfall. 2. Gravel or "Shingle" (The "Clean" Choice) * The Build: Use a weed membrane topped with 5–8cm of gravel. Use a 20mm stone rather than 10mm (the smaller ones get stuck in boot treads and end up in your kitchen!). * Pros: Drains instantly, looks very neat, and the "crunch" warns you of approaching pests (or neighbors!). * Cons: Hard to push a wheelbarrow over; can "migrate" into your lawn if you don't have a solid edging. * Scottish Tip: Look for "Scottish Pebbles" or "River Shingle"—the rounded edges make it easier to walk on than crushed granite. 3. Paving Slabs or Flagstones (The "Permanent" Choice) * The Build: Bed them on a layer of sand or fine grit. * Pros: Zero maintenance, easy to wheelbarrow over, and you can walk on them in your slippers to grab herbs without getting wet feet. * Cons: Most expensive; hard work to install; can be slippery when icy or covered in frost. * Scottish Tip: Ensure you buy textured or "riven" slabs. Smooth sandstone looks beautiful but becomes a literal ice rink in a Scottish winter. 4. Grass (The "Budget" Choice) * Pros: Free. * Cons: High maintenance. * Why it usually fails in Scotland: In a narrow gap (60cm), a lawnmower is hard to maneuver. More importantly, the high "foot traffic" in a small area combined with Scottish rain will turn the grass into a mud bath by November. I generally recommend avoiding grass paths between raised beds. Comparison Table for Paths Material Cost Durability Wheelbarrow Friendly? Woodchips Low 2–3 Years Yes (if packed down) Gravel Medium 10+ Years No (it sinks) Paving High Lifetime Yes (the best) Grass Zero Variable No (too muddy) Design Tip: The "Mower Width" Rule If you do decide to keep grass around your beds, make sure the paths are wider than your lawnmower. There is nothing more frustrating than having a 40cm path and a 45cm mower! For a comfortable walking and working space, 60cm to 90cm is the "sweet spot." Maintence In a Scottish raised bed, your approach to maintenance needs to account for two main things: high rainfall (which leaches nutrients out of the soil) and high humidity (which slugs absolutely love). 1. Watering: The "Scottish Paradox" It rains a lot in Scotland, but raised beds drain so efficiently that they can actually suffer from drought during a dry spell in May or June. When to Water: Early morning is best. Avoid late evening watering in a humid Scottish summer, as damp leaves sitting overnight can encourage "Potato Blight" or "Downy Mildew." The Finger Test: Don't trust the surface. Stick your finger 2 inches into the soil. If it's dry at that depth, it’s time to water. Rainwater is King: Use a water butt. Scottish tap water is fine, but rainwater is slightly acidic and contains no chlorine, which is better for the soil biology in your bed. Target the Roots: Always water the soil at the base of the plant, not the leaves. 2. Feeding: Replacing Leached Nutrients Because raised beds are "high-drainage," the rain washes away nitrogen faster than in the open ground. You need to replenish this. The "Slow Release" (Early Spring): Scatter Chicken Manure Pellets or Blood, Fish, and Bone over the surface in March/April. These break down slowly over several months. The "Quick Boost" (Growing Season): For "hungry" plants like tomatoes, courgettes, or kale, use a Liquid Seaweed Feed every 2 weeks. Scottish Tip: Seaweed is an incredible "tonic" that helps plants withstand the stress of cold snaps and high winds. Carrot Caution: Avoid high-nitrogen feeds (like manure) for carrots; it makes them grow "hairy" and split. They prefer the poorer soil left over from a previous crop. 3. Pest Control: The "Scottish Big Three" In Scotland, you aren't fighting locusts; you're fighting the damp-loving locals. Slugs & Snails This is your primary enemy. Raised beds provide a "high-rise" home for them. Barriers: Copper tape around the wooden rim of the bed works well. Alternatively, a 2-inch border of crushed eggshells or sharp horticultural grit around the base of vulnerable seedlings acts like "broken glass" to a slug. Beer Traps: Sink a small yogurt pot of cheap lager into the soil. Slugs are attracted to the yeast, fall in, and drown. Nematodes: This is a biological control you water into the soil in spring. It's highly effective in the damp Scottish climate as the microscopic worms need moist soil to travel and hunt slugs. Carrot Root Fly A tiny fly that lays eggs near carrots; the larvae then tunnel into your veg. The Height Advantage: The fly usually only travels about 60cm above the ground. If your raised bed is tall, you are already winning! Barrier: Use a fine Enviromesh or old net curtains over the top of the bed from May to August. Cabbage White Butterflies They love the cool, damp summers of the East and West coasts. The Netting Rule: If you grow Kale, Cabbage, or Broccoli, you must net them with "Butterfly Mesh" (small holes). If you see a white butterfly in your garden, it is already too late; your plants will be covered in caterpillars within a week. Scottish Raised Bed Sowing Calendar Because the Scottish spring starts roughly 3–4 weeks later than in the South of England, this calendar focuses on soil temperature and daylight. In a raised bed, you can usually start 2 weeks earlier than the open ground because the soil drains and warms up faster. The Scottish Raised Bed Sowing Calendar March: The "Under Cover" Month The soil is still too cold for seeds, but the light is returning. In Pots (Indoors/Windowsill): Start Tomatoes (for greenhouses) and Leeks (Musselburgh). Direct in Bed (under fleece/cloche): Sow Broad Beans and Early Peas. Action: Cover your raised beds with clear plastic or a cloche now to "pre-warm" the soil for April. April: The Real Start Wait for the daffodils to be in full bloom—that’s the signal that the soil is waking up. Direct in Bed: Carrots (early varieties), Parsnips, Radishes, and Spinach. Planting out: Onion sets and Shallots. Potatoes: Plant your "First Earlies" (like Pentland Javelin) towards the end of the month. May: The Great Sowing The risk of hard frost is receding, though "The Beltane Frosts" can still happen. Direct in Bed: Beetroot (Boltardy), Maincrop Carrots, Chard, and Lettuce. Planting out: If you started Kale or Cabbage indoors, move them to the beds now. Action: Be ready with horticultural fleece to cover tender shoots if a late frost is forecast. June: The "Long Days" Sowing With nearly 18–20 hours of light in the North, plants grow at a frantic pace. Direct in Bed: Runner Beans and French Beans (wait until mid-June to be safe from frost). Succession Sowing: Sow more Salad leaves and Radishes every 2 weeks to ensure a continuous harvest. Action: Watch for Carrot Root Fly. Use a fine mesh (Enviromesh) over your carrot beds. July & August: Harvesting & Prep Harvest: Enjoy your early potatoes, peas, and salads. Direct in Bed (for Winter): Sow Spring Onions and Winter Spinach. You can also sow Green Manure (like Clover or Mustard) in any empty spaces to protect the soil over winter. September & October: The Overwinterers Direct in Bed: Plant Garlic bulbs and Autumn Onion sets. Sow: Broad Beans (Aquadulce Claudia) to sit through the winter for an extra-early crop next year. Action: Clear away finished plants. Add a 5cm layer of well-rotted manure or compost to the top of the bed to let the worms "dig it in" over the winter. 3 Golden Rules for the Scottish Climate Don't Rush in March: Sowing into cold, grey, sodden soil usually results in the seeds rotting. Waiting two weeks for a warmer spell in April often results in bigger, healthier plants. The "Hand Test": If you can’t comfortably keep your bare hand on the soil for a minute, it’s too cold for seeds. Fleece is Your Best Friend: In Scotland, horticultural fleece isn't just for frost; it acts as a windbreak. Cold winds can "sandblast" young seedlings and stunt their growth. Q&A: Finishing Touches Q: My raised bed soil has sunk after the first year. What do I do? A: This is normal! Every autumn or early spring, simply "top up" the bed with a mix of garden compost and well-rotted manure. You don't need to dig it in; just spread it on top. Q: Can I use seaweed as a fertiliser? A: Yes! If you live near the coast, washed seaweed is a fantastic, traditional Scottish mulch for raised beds (especially for potatoes). Just make sure it’s not from a polluted area and give it a quick rinse if it's very salty. Q&A: Scottish Growing Q: When should I start sowing? A: In the South of England, people start in March. In Scotland, it is often better to wait until mid-April for outdoor sowing. If the soil is too cold, the seeds will just rot in the bed. Q: Do I need to worry about "Clubroot"? A: This is a common soil disease in Scotland that affects brassicas (cabbage, kale). If your garden has it, use Raised Beds with fresh, store-bought topsoil—this completely bypasses the infected ground soil. Q: Can I grow Tomatoes in a Scottish raised bed? A: Outdoors? It’s a gamble. If you have a south-facing wall, try the variety "Latah" (very fast) or "Red Alert." Otherwise, keep them for a greenhouse. Q&A: Common Concerns Q: Will the rotting logs "steal" nitrogen from my plants? A: Only at the point of contact. As long as you have at least 20cm of good soil on top, your plants' roots will get all the nitrogen they need before they ever reach the wood. By the time they do reach it, the wood is usually breaking down and releasing nutrients. Q: Can I use "New" wood like fresh pine clippings? A: Fresh evergreen (conifer/pine) can be very acidic. In Scotland, where soil is often already slightly acidic, it's better to use "brown" (dead/dried) wood or deciduous branches (Oak, Birch, Hazel) if possible. Q: Do I need to treat the wood myself? A: If you buy "tanalised" or pressure-treated wood, you don't need to. However, painting the exterior with a bird-safe wood preserver can add extra years of life. Q: Will the soil freeze faster in a raised bed? A: Yes, because the sides are exposed. For winter crops like Kale or Leeks, you can wrap the outside of the bed in bubble wrap or burlap if a severe "Beast from the East" frost is forecast. Q: Where is the best place to put it? A: In Scotland, light is precious. Place it in the sunniest spot possible, away from overhanging trees, and try to orient the long side facing South to catch the maximum "low" winter sun. Q&A: Troubleshooting Q: My lettuce has "grey fuzz" on it. What is that? A: That's Botrytis (Grey Mould), caused by poor airflow and dampness. In Scotland, don't plant your veg too close together. Give them "elbow room" so the wind can dry the leaves after a rain shower. Q: Can I use "Slug Pellets"? A: Try to avoid them, especially the blue ones (Metaldehyde), as they harm the birds and hedgehogs that eat the slugs. If you must use them, look for "Ferric Phosphate" pellets, which are certified for organic gardening and safer for wildlife. Q: Do I need to feed my soil in the winter? A: No. Just cover the bed with a layer of compost or well-rotted manure in November and leave it. The Scottish winter rain will wash the nutrients down into the soil, ready for your spring planting. Final Q&A Q: How do I stop weeds growing in the path? A: Always use a weed suppressant membrane underneath gravel or woodchips. Do not use cardboard here (like you did inside the bed), as it will rot too quickly and the weeds will come through within months. Q: Which material is best for "slug control"? A: Gravel is the winner here. Slugs and snails find the sharp, dry edges of gravel uncomfortable to cross, whereas damp woodchips are like a "luxury highway" for them. All reactions: 15 Derek Wood "Medium (30–45cm): * Best for: Carrots, onions, beetroot, garlic, and leeks. * Scottish Tip: This depth is ideal for carrots, as it raises them above the "flight path" of the carrot root fly (which usually flies low to the ground). " Didn't work… See more 2d Sophie Rogers We've just received some whisky barrels... are they any good for a raised bed of this type? The plants might get a bit drunk though, there are a lot of fumes! 19m Log in or sign up for Facebook to connect with friends, family and people you know. or

As mentioned previously I assist Clients in making Claims from time to time. You have to be professional at all times. You do your investigation, record the findings and offer an evidenced based inpartial opinion. Impartiality is the key.. as if it ever goes to court (you hope to avoid this) you have to defend your engineering / design judgement and impartiality. If you can't do that then you have let your Client down. Often my intitial report is written in lay terms as it's for the Client who is often is not familiar with the construction industry. I actually state this in the introduction. This has a number of benefits. One is that it lets the initial claims handler realise that it's serious and needs to be passed up the chain of command. Then they may get more of their own professionals involved and the conversation becomes more technical. Naming and shaming is not something I get involved in, however a Client can chose to wield that stick if they choose to do so. I can recommend of course, that if there is a structural safety issue that is not getting address timely then I may have no recourse as an Engineer (who has a duty to public safety) to get in touch with the HSE, Professional bodies, Trading Standards and so on. Well they would sue someone like me, even if to make an example to deter others. That is why you have to be impartial, stick to the evidence and be able to back up what you are saying with technical arguement. Some claims are not cut and dry.. there is fault on the construction / design side but also at times the home owner has done something a bit daft or has excessive demands. That moves the goal posts. Here we need to seek a compromise. Most times it's quitely settled, the home owner needs to sign an NDA and we all go home.

I've got Lusso stuff in my own house. Wife went to town and got all the "extras" but they do look good. A few of my Architect pals are installing / specing it for their own kids houses also. For a while they did not have a show room, don't know if they have one now. Can't comment on the back up service as nothing has gone wrong with their product to date!

Just a quick thought, even if to rule out. I wonder if there is a metal in the taps / cistern that is causing the corrosion. The end connection in the flexible tube becomes a sacraficial annode if the wrong way round in the galvanic series. @SteamyTea?

Road planings can be a great material. But before you import this stuff onto your site you need to know where it came from. Beware of cheep offerings as they can be full of contamination. Just say the planings come from the old bus station.. you'll have brake fluid, gear box oil etc. Or from a busy road junction. Worse still from the road into an old scrap yard.. then you'll get heavy metals and all sorts. Contaminated road planings can be expensive to dispose of unless you have a gullable self builder looking for a cash deal! At the end of the day you are responsible for the site and what comes onto it. Main roads are made up of several layers. The wearing top coat, higher bitimen content (the binder) . The wearing coat is often 40mm thick. Then the base course, larger aggregate (often 20mm - dust) with a lower binder content often 100mm thick and then the sub base which can vary (from memory between 150 and 300 mm thick) and contains 40mm aggregate down with a lower binder still. The base course is probably the best to get your hands on. Have a read at @saveasteading post above.

A very good comment.. and often justified. From time to time I get involved in helping home owners put their case to the warranty providers. Usually by the time I get involved folk are at their wits end, often very distressed, have exhausted the normal channels, all in good faith and have got nowhere. I've done this stuff on and off for about 30 years. In the old days, from memory, there was the NHBC and Zurich, the market leaders. Now we have other companies in the market and some of the earlier ones have withdrawn. The way these providers are set up and lay off their risk is a complete mine field. It's a very competetive market. I often wonder when I look at the warranty premium.. I think it's far too low given my knowledge on what goes on on building sites. If it's too low then it's likely not going to deliver and in that case why pay at all? I could write a long essay on this but I'm coming round to the view that the one effective way to improving standards could come from the lenders; the banks and the building societies. At the end of the day a warranty should deliver two things. 1/ It protects the lender. 2/ It provides a bit of comfort and security to the purchaser of the home.

I've looked at the link https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12053-019-09781-3 and it just does not address the ongoing maintenance cost.. it's just more pish written by people that are still learning. That is ok.. but it's your money.. better maybe to take the view of old crusty designers like myself also.. then you can make an informed design choice as to how you want to spend your own money. How on earth can you attribute any credence to some of this stuff if they can't say.. ok x glazing has a life span of 15 years on average, Y MHVR is this and account for that in the carbon calculation and energy calculation. Until the replacement and maintenance costs are accounted for there is no way you can make a long term choice or take a balanced view. Often many on BH are just trying to get building regs approval. Ok if that floats your boat.. it's your money after all. We need to recognise the true costs of replacing glazing units and mechanical equipment etc if we really want to make good environmental design decisions. Sorry to be so blunt blunt and the choice of language... but the facts are the facts.

For a bit of fun lets have a peak behind the curtain. Take your case at 1.8m and you are just seeking rebuild insurance.. just that. How would you get to the stage when you need rebuild insurance alone? This would mean that every other policy has failed to offer cover (which is normally standard) and Protek are offering this as independent cover as a one off and have nothing to do with the warranty. As I said in a previous post I have met with them and engaged. The problem they seem to have is that their computer says no and some of their coms systems are a bit shite, this lets them down. It can be really frustrating for Clients and myself. It's not that they are offering a bad product or are infested with chancers. Once you get up the chain a bit I've found them very reasonable to deal with. It could be that you are splitting out the Protek offer and seeing 4.0k as an item. But that is not how business works.. their itemisation is likely based on them securing the warranty and turning stuff into a bundle packaged up. Go back and look at what information you have given them and have another go. There is probably a bit more to this? Do you have a back story you want to share?

Warranty providers are insurance companies.. who just happen to underwrite self builds. Many just sub contract out all the inspections, plans and SE checks! That is backed up with a nice bit of marketing, sales staff etc which is what you see. I do battle with warranty providers on claims stuff so get to see what is behind the curtain. There is no way you could know this unless you do a bit of this stuff as a day job.

Experience speaks. Agree, a ground bearing slab will benefit the overall u value calcs.

For me I can see how folk are going for the MHVR, high end glazing, home automation etc. I do think UFH is a great solution, if kept simple like @JohnMo advocates. I think lot's of you are not actually being eco friendly at all. I think many are trying to do this as hobby to satisfy your need to appear eco friendly and not looking too deep and forensically about what you are doing. Some just want to play about with tech stuff. Some folk buy sports cars..but they don't kid themsevels on they are something they are not. Many of you are specing high end glazing that only has at most an 7 -8 year warranty. How do you jusatify that? Some are specing ventilation and home automation that will be redundant in ten years time. But if you really want to make a contribution then I would love to hear about eco friendly ideas that are going to work for 50 years plus that are easily and cheep to maintain, by someone else, say a young couple buying you home. I think many should be honest with themselves and just ask are we really being eco friendly or just being liberal twats so we look good. To make a point here. I have three young Chartered Architects on my books at the moment that have come to me to assist on the design of their own houses. They are all really clever and innovative designers. I'm loving working with them. I bring to the table my experience and say let's do this so we maintain / enhance the value of your house, lets look at the best way we can design for the short term.. so you enjoy realising your design but also make sure you can sell the house for a good price later and make sure some surveyor is not going to devalue if you have introduced some tech stuff that is a liability.

Ah.. First thing I think is that are you building a small house on a very valuable plot? If you are putting a 1.8m value house on a £250k plot then the warranty is far too cheep. I do claims work from time to time against the warranty providers. There are new comers to the market and you really nead to read carefully their T & C's. It bad enough for me going up against the NHBC as their T &C are not the same as they used to be. My last experience with Protek was.. the computer says know.. they are relatively small compared with the huge contingency ( all be it ring fenced) that the NHBC hold. One of their surveyors came to my office and I found him very competant, had a huge depth of knowledge about the building industry but a good bit of the liability rested with him, not Protek Unfortunatly the Protek management came over as a bit twatish..and a bit financially niaive about the self building industry. I think the main guy was about 40 years old.. still clearly in primary school. but with a bit of tough love they seemed to wake up and smell the coffee and we agreed a sensible premium that balanced their risk against mine. For the keen, folk that are familiar with how policies are written.. many waranty providers are shedding risk to independant surveyors and SE's to keep the cost down.. the banks are just burying their heads in the sand lending wise. I recently (not be named) one waranty provider wanted me to take on the contaminated land risk.. for £100 quid.. they are either out of their mind, or low IQ or just chancers! It's business so the latter is most likely. In this insurance business there are no friends in the desert! I know and make claims agianst them.. on the wanker ratio they are often above 5. Some are actually competent individuals.. but why do they take the mickeal out of ordinary home owners that say just work for the NHS... like my wife? You must understand how limited the cover is you are going to get for 4.0k.

Post what they are asking for. One thing about dealing with planners and BC is that you can end up being a useful idiot. Some treat you as a bit of CPD on their CV! Some make the mistake of providing info that just opens a can of worms.. again you become a CPD candidate. Now actually I have a good relationship with the planners, BC, locally I have known some for 40 years or more.. when we just were kids. Think about the balance.. you want to be helpful but not too much in writing. If you can the best way is to lift that old thing called the telephone and have a chat.

Are you sure? This could come back to bite you unless you know your stuff! By asking the question I can see you don't!

Actually this is more common than you think. Even if it's load coming down from large openings. Now you may have a full structural and very stiff raft and that is a different animal. When we design lighty loaded "insulated rafts" we often have point loads. There is much confusion around this. Unless you are an SE or experience Civil Engineer for example with the ability to analyse these things you won't really know about this mistique and the thoery. @Nickfromwales.. has done a lot of them but many don't know the theory, how they behave and the long term implications on the structure you are putting on top. The art of design is to look at each element from the soil up and understand how all these fascinating materail interact. It's part science and part craft.. that makes design exciting.. and eh profitable!.. In isolation if looking for a quick fix and safe, all we do is to recognise that the insulation is a bit more "squashy" and design for that. An insulated raft just has a more flexible layer before it hits the hard core. I've copied below a bit of my conservative calculations that I present to BC for a ground bearing slab, they need to tick a box.. The calcs are for completness, so I have go conservative to head off any questions from a checking Engineer. It lets you see how I'm taking the compressive strenght of the PIR insulation and reducing deflection. I chose to set a limit of 1.0 mm on the screed deflection as BC can't argue otherwise. Normally on insulated rafts I'll pick a different value.. I'm not going to tell you what that is as it's my intellectual property and that is why I get paid as an SE! ..

Not quite. It cost me roughly 250 k in lost wages to go to uni. When I came out I had to start at the bottom of the SE ladder at the age of 44. I sucked it up until I learnt enough about SE stuff and went back to running my own business. So for me I was very lucky as I don't have kids to support. I'm 62 now. It took me about 10 / 15 years to become a really competant and prove to myself SE that I can hold my own against the best. I deliberately write on BH in a foaksy manner, am chatty as I just want folk to have fun. In my day job I do the same until some idiot starts having a laugh. I also do claims work agaist say the NHBC, I'm not chatty, I can be absolutely brutal in this cases. Sometimes it's nice to take folk down a few pegs and rub their noses right in it and make them pay compensation, you get that feeling.. I warned you and now you are f_cked. My financials work like this. I don't have massive pension provision. But I've got a good brain. I recognised that if I educated myself and used my business exerience I can work and have fun well beyond my 70,s.

That is fab news. It doesn't matter whether you are someone like me that chips in with a bit of free professional advice or someone that has just got together enough funds for a deposit on their first home. It's essential that we encourage and share ideas and most importantly the enthusiasm.. which can make you money. The easiest way is to avoid unforced errors, which is essential if younger and building a pot of funds. BH does this as you can see the other mistakes folk make. There are a number of members on BH that are wealthy, if you look back some have come.. milked BH and then gone. Some have stayed and are giving back. I don't resent that, it's just adult life. That said there are many that I know have saved thousands and can't be bothered ( or are just not socially educated) to donate a tenner. But the Mods really need folk to gather round them, give them some support both financially and morally. The current mods at some point will have to hang up their boots. I would love to see BH out lasting me!

Ask your SE, they should have detailed this out already for you. BC are not Structural Engineers. I might chip in as an SE but I would need to see the drawings first. There are lots of different types of raft. Until you know where the uniform loads are , where any point loads are you can't start on the drainage design.

Thank you for the kind words. To expand a bit.. I do this sort of stuff as a day job.. But once you have designed your first hundred steel beams the excitement kind of wears off. I has to be done and you have to knuckle down as it puts bread on the table and vitally impoprtant you are perfoming a Civil duty. You can't be lazy and drop your guard as folks lives are at stake. There is a common miss conception that SE's and Civil Engineers design for the Client alone. This is far from the case. Our primary duty is to the public, that can be anyone that later buys your house for example. It sets us aside from Layers, QS's etc. Architect's fall between the cracks @ETC. They also have to design so the building is weather tight for example, if it's not it can cause deterioration the the stucture. In the round the Architectural profession and Se is very much bound together. That is why you must foster a good design and professional team. At the end of the day they will stand the best chance of delivering what you expect to pay for. I quote Ruskin on the law of economics. There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person’s lawful prey. It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot — it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.” My work is also my hobby. I love desinging stuff. I started out as a builder after getting an HND after leaving school, became an SE and then married up that with the stuff I learnt as a builder to become a designer that also does the Architectural side and everything else that interests me. The best bit of my job is taking on the hard an unusual stuff as you have to design from first principles and then justify your design to other professionals who may be critical. It's a test of my knowledge, my communication skills, a bit of diplomacy, presentation.. all backed up with hard maths and probablility. Yes there still is the SE sums, the admin, sorting out contracts.. but at the end of the day after forty years of learning I kind of feel I've arrived and I derive immense enjoyment from the creative side and working with folk who know I'm not talking shite. If you look up the definitions of what an SE it often says it is someone who practices the art and craft of design. This is what lots of folk are doing on BH.. they often just don't know they are! It's my job to say.. hey folks you are doing great work, lets see how we make it work to get buiding regs / planning approval etc. I hope you are in broad agreement with my above sentiments. Keep posting and don't be a stranger. Take note of this. I learn loads form BH, every day is a school day for me. The folk on BH are often advocating the latest design ideas and innovating. Many come from different backgrounds and are highly knowledgeable both technically and with huge life experience. If I want to keep up it would be daft for me not to take BH folks ideas and ask.. how to I translate that into something that can be practically built. Lastly.. a pure pitch for BH and the mods. They are doing a fund raiser which I support.

Post a photo of where you are are the moment.

It's hard to argue with something like this, best is to just smile politely and wish them the best of luck. Well done you. Big savings to be made here. One practical example is say you have to deal with the water board or other service companies You can be hanging on the phone for ages, then get cut off!. When, I can, encourage Clients to do this initial work but brief them first on the right questions to ask. I get paid for guiding, you save money, doing something yourself and being proactive. It is also beneficial as Client gets a deeper understanding of the project mechanics and who the desing all fits together. They feel they have more control and are better informed. In the example above I allocated 8 days of director time. I had a feeling when I wrote that it would provoke a response, probably incredulous mostly, some may have had a choking fit. But I set it up in the context of a small practice. The director is not trousering £100.00 an hour. That rate has to pay for admin, PI insurance, Software ( expensive), unpaid time spent generating the buisiness in the first place and a whole host of other expenses. Actually the £100.00 an hour is likely too cheep. I allocated 15% profit. You can in life work for someone, often with less financial risk. When you run a business you have to build some capital to cover bad payers, the govenment changing the tax and rating system .. and its fair you should be able to take some reward at the end of the day, maybe have enough to build a pension fund similar to what someone in the NHS may have? Your point on enjoying working with your Architect and have enjoyed working together is hugely valid. This has hidden value as they are invested in the project. I engourage this. Often I keep an eye on my projects even though my formal brief may be concluded. Clients often phone me during the build and say.. Gus what about this? Often with a comment I can save thousands or just reassure them.. and that kind of puts my design fee into perspective. Another way of looking at this. If I save two weeks of tradespersons time that can amount to often over 2.0k.. On BH there are a few folk that do desing / project management as a day job. There used to be a guy called the R_Sole ( something like that) who worked in Scotland, highly knowlegeable but got hounded / many thought they knew better and.. he left. There was a bit of a gap then @ETC turned up with his valuable Architect input. In terms of fee rates for SE's / Architect's I am confident we can justify our rates (which may not be the cheepest but maybe best value) and what you get for your money. Of course there are bad Architect's and SE's, but this is often due to a lack of experience rather than them being chancers. One key thing that can cause you to fall is poor communication with the Client. Fom time to time a Client may ask me something that I can't answer straight away. I just fesse up and say I don't know! , but I'm going to go off and find out, then work it out and give you a reasoned and evidence based answer. If you are generally happy and have a good personal relashionship then grow together, pay their current rate. Last thing today I got asked by a Contractor I work with to come and look at a job where the Scottish SE (SER Engineer) has been sacked by the Client, from my initial findings I get a smell of profession incompetancy. Their Architect has dropped some clangers. They are in mid build. They told me what fee they had paid to the SE (SER Engineer) .. I can't see straight away that it's unlikely they could have produced an competent design for that amount of fee money. I'll not post much more but my initial suggestion was let's see if we can find some tools that might encourage the SE to want to be "unsacked" and the Architect to come back to the table in an "enthusiastic manner" on our terms.

I can see how you might not follow. I said something like this: Now typical rates for a structural engineer working under the IR35 scheme in the UK are about £350 to £500 a day, equates to £45 - £70 an hour as they get paid for a full 8 hour day. Much depends on experience! I'm taking this as a new build, much of the below is just general and intended for all BH folk to let folk see a bit of what is behind the curtain. Lastly please excuse my spelling and grammer as I'm off duty. For a bit of fun I've copied your brief items 1 - 8 below (made it gold colour text and italic) and tried to guess the time (with a bit of interpretation) that I may set against each item to work out the time. Once you know the time you set the rate.. then add profit and VAT if applicable. It's going to be a guess but hopefully it lets BH folk see how someone like me puts together a fee quote and the thought process behind it. I've put my own slant on the time. Oh now.. you know Lawyers do it but the 1/4 hour or less and have different rates. If any want to quibble then convert to legal rates.. and we can work back from there... just joking. No worries... The fees to date cover items 1-8 below. 9-21 are another couple of thousand. We have planning approval, have discharged the pre-commencement conditions and we're probably 50% of the way through the remaining points. PREPARATION 1. Development of initial statement of requirements into the Design Brief on behalf of the client confirming key requirements and constraints. Half a day to meet you, ask questions, listen to what you want,understand how you live. Interrogate you a bit, gently. Work out if we can get along. If the personal chemistry stinks then walk away. Often I find folk are actually nervious and that comes over at times as a bit aggressive on the Client side. You have to have the skills to recognise that and cut folk a fair bit of slack. Half a day to do a bit of background reasearch, quick due dilligence on you, the Client. Half a day to think about the design, what the Client has told you and what they have not. When I go to meet knew Clients I observe how the live curently, I encougrage them just to talk about themselves. Say husband and wife how they try and communicate their ideas. Once I'm in the room the answers they give are often different from the way they talk to each other. One day to put together a design brief of requirements / constraints with some ideas on how you go about meeting thier requirements. This can be things as simple as.. we want a traditional pantry. We want that to be cool and ventilated for example.. plays a bit of havoc with the U Values but if that is what is required then srecognise that. 2.5 days work. For context: You are running a small Architectural or Engineering practice with 2 / 3 Directors and a few staff and generating plenty leads then the hit rate should be between 1 in 3 to 1 in 5 jobs. Less than 1 in 3 and you are not maximising profit. More than 1 in 5 you are wasting money. This is an old accounting rule of thumb. Many practices have repeat customers so you can maybe drop the price a bit due to regular custom in these cases. On a personal note.. you have to want to do the job. You are going to invest in the project and if your not then the Client will sniff that out, it's not a good look! 2. Surveyor and measure the house. DESIGN Ok on a new build you get a setting out engineer that has all the right equipment. Their stuff can cost 15 - 20k for a high end total station. Say a day for them. Get their info, take the data into you CAD package and think about what you are seeing. 1 day 2 days work 3. Prepare a number of sketch designs as your brief and for discussion purposes. This can include hand sketches, 3D computer modelling and physical models. 2D cad sketeches, use colour to helop visualse: 3 days 3D This is something that Architects love but usually is complete mince and gets put in the bin later. Hand sketches fine. Physical Models.. few these days can do it. 2 weeks. At this stage the contract is signed and the objective is to get the key information you need to communicate with the Client. It's early stage stuff. You can much more quickly adapt 2D drawings than a 3D model. The secret is to produce lots of 2D concept drawings to narrow down the options before you go into 3D mode, if you ever have to. Ok say 4 days for this item. 4. Prepare final design/make alterations in accordance with your instructions this will be weighted at 20% of the design fee. 3 Days Planning 5. Prepare planning drawings and other information if needed. 3 days for the planning drawings, making the submissionand all the paper work etc. other information is open ended, can't put a time on that as no idea how much work is involved. 6. Submit the Full Plans and Design Statement. 2.0 days, design statement 1 day as you have already spent a bit of thinking time. Say 3.0 days. 7. Act as clients agent during the planning process and advise on planning requirements. 2.0 days 8. Notify the neighbouring owners of the construction under the Party Wall Act etc. 1996, prepare notification letters only under the act. Applcable to England only, not my bag but say 2.0 days. The above adds up to about 21.5 days work. This will be roughly split between a senior person and a technician. Split it 3/4 technician and 1/4 director. 3*21.5 days / 4 = 16.0 day technician @ £30.00 per hour = £ 3870 1*21.5 / 4 = = 8 days director @ 100.00 per hour = £4300 Sum of above is £8170. Add profit @ 15% = £ 9395 ex vat. Now the above is probably going to raise an eyebrow or not. Someone like me who just works for themselves will be cheaper. But I can tell you that for 4.0k you are not going to get much quality information that you can later use. I would say that they are too cheep and you are likely to get stung. For items 9 onwards there is no way you are going to get any useful information for 3.0k. You are likely going to get absolutely pelted by your builder and are putting yourself at massive risk. |Your advisors should be assessing your competancy, ability, h ow you are going to manage this, what work you are going to do yourself and so on, advising you on your chances of satisfactory copmpletion and telling you where you are likely going to need support and then detailng and drawing accordingly. That is the skill you pay a good designer for.. they recognise you weak spots and where you are strong. Now actually all I have to do is save you a couple or three week site labour time and I've washed my face even if the fees appear higher at the outset. Sorry to dish out the tough love. But you are tying you own hands at this stage. To do this amount of design work for such a low fee.. you designer would be much better off working a Tesco/ Are they insured?

I ask my self. The idea of a balcony is that you can see out. At times you may want privacy.. but you use say pot plants for that. You also want to do a bit of sun bathing. There will be a few eco enthusiasts that do this but most in real life will give it a swerve. Why don't they just fix solar to the walls instead?

Ok in my day job I spec windows doors etc. Now on my own home I've got some high end aluminium windows, doors and roof lanterns. The deal on the headline is that the overall installtation has a warranty for ten years.. but the fine print says the glass units are valid for only seven years. I was pleased with the product on my own house. I ask my Clients to have a look at their product. Now I'm in year six and one glass unit is starting to mist up. I think the supplier is going to be keen to fix it, as I pass business their way. Here is a key point. There are loads of folk building ordinary self build houses that are trying to get the U values down.. but they don't realise that the glass may fail after 7 years and they have no come back. It is financially complete bonkers to spend money on high end glazing units that may be out of warranty in seven years.. but still there are folk on BH doing this. Ok if you have loads of cash to burn / may be dead in ten years time then fine. But for young folk just starting out it's complete nonsence. I my case the window supplier is not far and locally based. Buying stuff from abroad comes with greater risk! It's like that wee baldy chap on on Dragons Den that says he can get everything cheeper from China. If you want to buy windows then the two things that matter most are; the warranty on the glass units and the back up advice on installation. It's very rare that the actual frame fails.

Great thanks from me for responding to my question.. which was what did you get for your 1%. Say your build cost was 400k then 1% is 4.0k. For items 1 -8 that is ok ish but most of the info will be general. The rest is much more expensive.