JohnMo

MSC quote are generally just taking people for mugs from what I see. Others on here as mentioned above have excluded the MSC grant and saved. Had a look at the unitower a while ago, the coil is the largest in the world, so reheat times and temperature will not be the best. And it just a cylinder with a 3 way diverter valve. You save a lot with a better performance cylinder and a £150 3 port diverter. If the UFH is a single zone, no buffer required. Then your material list is 3 port diverter - £150 Flexible hoses x2 - £150 Cylinder - £1000 to 1500 Heat pump - depends on make and size, but I just got a new one (Maxa 6kW inverter) from eBay for £1300. Basically the same unit as sold by (made for) Viesmann for £4000+. Flex feet for HP - £70 Copper pipe and insulation Maybe a couple of thermostats, expansion vessel, isolation valves, filter ball valve, antifreeze valves (or glycol) bits and bobs - about £600

Smaller the coil the hotter the flow temp required to get cylinder to heat. As Dave says increase the flow temp. Watch the cylinder/heat pump as you need to know what temp you reach. The set the thermostat on the cylinder 1 deg below that. If the temp is not where you want, the only thing to do is increase flow temp. Note. You don't want the thermostat set higher than the flow temp temp can achieve, otherwise the heat pump run for ever trying to achieve it for no gain. But will cost you money for nothing

The you have a photo of the cylinder data plate. It should show the size of your coil within the cylinder, I suspect it's too small. Ideally it should 3m2 a little smaller ok, bigger even better. But suspect it's not. Also the floor area around your cylinder needs to filled with insulation.

Although it sounds a good idea, the idea of the draft is to remove the condensation buildup. Add lots of insulation but leave the draft space open. To stops things getting in through gaps use a stainless or plastic mesh such as soffit mesh.

Looks pants +1 and likely the heat will do the TV no good in the short or long term

Just pick a cylinder say 300l and get the docs and send them in. Makes no difference whether you actually use that cylinder later. All the real info goes into the EPC. It will be when you look at the drawings for your house, it will just show a cylinder with no details.

Have you revisited the commissioning procedure and started from scratch. Basically close everything set all the flow adjusters to zero and the flow setters under the actuators to zero. Then bring one loop on at a time?

So when you commissioned the flow rates, did you get full flow at any point? As the procedure says to start with only one loop open, you should have got the full flow at some points during commissioning? If you tried to get all the flow rates at one go, that maybe why you are get a low flow on all loops.

Just checked the link it's the first video that comes up.

So every day a learning day. Did you do this? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=polypipe+Auto+Flow+setup&biw=384&bih=660&sxsrf=AJOqlzVvMtO2zjAo1bAcKHFHi65vmKudxg%3A1673544670996&ei=3kPAY8azPNCigQb29LLwDg&oq=polypipe+Auto+Flow+setup&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgAToKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzoECCMQJzoECCEQFUoECEEYAFCLDVjuJGClKGgBcAB4AIABpQKIAdwLkgEFMC42LjKYAQCgAQHIAQjAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#

A lot of people on here could design it for you. How big is your house, how many people to live in how many bedrooms? What is your projected heat loss, how much insulation are you planning for your floor. Are you going UFH or radiators? You may not need a buffer, but you do want priority hot water on X plan to get efficiency out of the boiler

You are set to auto flow. So this will basically manage the flow through the system and I think how much energy is going into the floor. If your flow temp is high the flow rate doesn't need to as high to get the same energy transfer. Reduce the mixer flow temp, your flow rates should increase, but it may take a while to change. Worth a try. If you are connected direct to the boiler, can you control CH flow temp independent of cylinder flow temp,? If you can you could just reduce boiler temp to get more efficient operation from the boiler.

So your drawing is wrong. Have you tried to adjust a flow meter? Perhaps they are short runs under the floor and the loops are set to a flow rate of around 1? You state the floor is warm, so is there an issue? If the floors warm, turn your flow to min speed, (1 light) and job done.

Basic question first, is the two way valve opening? Is that a pressurised thermal store?

I would say you are generating nearly enough from PV and the diverter is flicking between about confused. Look at it tomorrow.

Not sure how you could unless the 3 zones had there own mixer and the opentherm controlled the mixer. Or each zone is run at a completely different time without overlaps. The opentherm bit just modulates the boiler output. I would try running as a single zone and balance down rates to manage temperature in areas

Here's a write up, if your plumber doesn't know what it is, he needs to get back to school. https://heatingacademynorthampton.co.uk/s_and_y_plans_should_be_banned/ Boiler efficiency is nothing really to do with where is runs within the available min and max allowable kW. The biggest effect on efficiency is return temperature. All new boilers in the UK have to be condensing. What this means, if your return temperature is below 53 degC, the steam within the exhaust flue is converted back to water, during this process the latent heat energy is captured and put back into the boiler. The lower the return temp the higher the efficiency. You get efficiency of around 110% with return in the high 20s low 30s. An oversized boiler or too many small zones can lead to the boiler short cycling, this will drop about 20 to 30% of efficiency as the boiler spends at lot of time doing in-effectively.

Gas, oil, heat pump, all provide heat, no one would install a heat pump rated at 30kW, so why would you need a 30kW system gas or oil boiler. Treat your heating system the same as you would if installing a heat pump, you will surprised how small your boiler could be. If you are getting a new cylinder get one with a heat pump coil, that way you can operate domestic hot water heating while the boiler is condensing at all times. You also need to go down X plan, not S or Y plan. X plan will allow the boiler run at two different temps, one for heating and the other for heating the cylinder.

Lounge is about 6m x 6m, with vaulted ceiling and at peak about 6m. Master bedroom 5 x 5m and average 3m tall. Wardrobe 2m x 2m and 2.5m tall, it as louvre door for unrestricted air flow.

Some background our houses and what I found Our master bedroom 12 l/s and wardrobe with 6l/s, (just checked the test report, figures in previous post were low) so a combined 20 l/s will get up to just over 1000ppm CO2, with the door closed over night, I wouldn't want a supply rate less than this in a double bedroom. Our living room has 2 terminals with a total of 20l/s combined. Had 6 in the room for about 6 hours by hour 4 the CO2 was at 1300ppm, so it was put on boost. With 2 or 3 people it stays in 5-600 region. Both rooms are big, but still need the air changes to keep CO2 low. Use most of your flow where you want good air quality, the rest of the house under ventilate, to get the correct average over the house. .

None of my extract were doubled up (90mm), longest runs about 12-14m. No issues Our master bed is approx 18m and 19m runs, we use two outlets and single run to each, which gave a combined flow total of 45m3/h. You definitely need 2 x90mm ducts at that length, to get 45m3/h over that distance, otherwise you would be turning up the fan speed too much to compensate. Just looking at your flow rates in your bedrooms and something doesn't look right. Master bed rate seems very low? Would expect to see around 45m3/h when combined with the wardrobe flow for a double room. Other bedrooms if a guest or single bedroom are fine. Your living area flow seems very low for a communal area, you have more flow in an under stairs cupboard for example.

+1 on that. The best change that happened on our build, original build had lots of wood and little of places to get pipes in and out of places. Posi joist/rafters are great. Also speed up the build as they are easy to move about due to the lower weights.

I just found it easier to use 90mm throughout, instead of 75mm. Most runs in our house would have been double runs in 75mm, but are a single run in 90mm. Less hassle running and ended up cheaper overall. The other thing to think about, and this why you are managing the pressure drop. You manage the pressure drop, because a low pressure drop allows the MVHR fans to run further down their performance curve, i.e. they run slower, so makes less noise and does less work (less kWh ultimately) for a given flow rate.

WC = weather compensation

I watch a guy in a ship yard, and he used a full roll on a 2" tapered fitting. Didn't seal and he then used another roll