JohnMo

There's an Italian ASHP A2W that can do cooling and hot water heating at the same time. The cylinder has an additional coil for refrigerant, the refrigerant is diverted to cylinder during cooling mode.

I would say if the pipe is at the bottom of concrete, compared to middle the heat would be felt at the surface quicker if mounted in the middle. The logic is the heat radiates from the pipe, almost evenly (almost as it will always prefer to travel towards the lowest temperature). The heat as it spreads would have lost some heat to concrete each mm it moves from the heat source, the further way from the heat the more time it takes to get to the surface. However saying all the above, thick screed requires long slow heating regime, either 24/7 or use as a storage heater over 7 plus hours. Hoping to put on the heating when you get home or an hour or so before you get home will lead to a cold house. Thick screeds make a simple heating system, one thermostat for the whole house, no need for so called smart controls, run on weather compensation or a modified curve to allow storage heating over 7 hours. It actually 50mm from the surface and bottom of concrete, minimum, to prevent corrosion, not really much to do with reinforcement properties.

You either need to tell UFH it's in cooling mode, or turn the thermostat up to full so the the actuators open. Not sure cooling and radiators works.

I am not sure, it seems to move about from minute to minute sometimes importing others exporting. Not sure if some is to with the conversation from AC to DC and back to AC converter losses. Rather than real export. Or if it's using the grid as small resource to make up for an ever moving PV supply power and the variable of house demand.

If you are doing MVHR, the inlet on the smallest will be 125mm dia, but normally 150 to 160mm dia. You need to maintain those Mon cross sectional areas, other noise is going to be an issue. 1 possibly 2 air passing through MVHR will be in addition to air leaking in or out elsewhere. It will be likely heat recovery of additional ventilation over and above your normal ventilation. 3. Both your prices sound excessive. If it was my house this is what I would do. 1. Install moisture activated trickle vents, only open when needed, closed automatically all other times 2. Under cut the bedroom and living doors, so therecis approx 10mm gap always open. 3. Install a MEV system to the vet rooms - this extract only and they also can come with moisture activated flow control at the nozzle and fan speed. There is no heat recovery but only active when needed, only extract ducts needed , so way simpler to install.

You really need to use the SPI W/(m3h) figure for calculating the energy use, as long as you are not using inappropriate duct lengths or duct type, that will give the most representative energy use figure. Calculate the flow rate you are likely in m3/h m, then select based on that figure. Once you are in the house the flow rates are generally to high, I halved mine, as the house most likely a couple of people rattling around a biggish house.

Then the washing machine went on

Sun's actually started to poke its head out, so started to get battery charging done. Battery depleted (was only at 26% charged) last night and started to pull from the grid. Very cloudy this morning.

They have closed that tariff to anyone new. Which is a shame, you can do a lot at 10p per kWh.

Maybe, but maybe not and most likely not. If it worked no one do large coating, they would just get of tins of emulsion. Or use a proper airtight paint. Builders sand, cement and lime, is an easy enough task. It's flexible enough to withstand a bit of building movement. Took two of us, just under two days, to do 70m by an average of 3m high.

We are in a poor reception area for smart meters, but octopus are coming out to try a booster on the 26th. If that fails the only other option is E7 and they will program that in manually to the smart meter. So I just just give the two readings monthly.

A big bank of sand. Our bore hole (for water) is about 34m deep, the first 20m+ was just sand and soft sand stone, then about a metre of clay, then sand and stone, then hard sand stone.

9 x 1m spikes screwed together to form one long spike. Pretty much dry sand, water table about a long way down.

Updated every 30 mins from national grid. Everything now goes through the gateway panel. Meter feeds direct to gateway and then from gateway to CU. Battery feeds in to gateway. All the PV also all goes through the gateway. Biggest job (which I unfortunately volunteered to do) was to drive in the secondary ground spike, as a secondary earth is required. Was expecting a metre or two (in sand). 9m later we got 160 Ohm (200 Ohm required max). At 7m we had 750 Ohm.

The leaf, if you click on it, it shows the report carbon intensity of the grid. The flow to grid goes in and out.

Slightly different graphic, cloud come over, now taking from the battery and PV to support house load while heat pump is running.

Battery now up and running. Installer had a few issues commissioning, but all seems sorted now. Current status of the house, with heat pump on cooling duty and slight cloudy day. So generating 3.29 kW, heat pump and house is taking 1.83kW, 1.48kW going to battery and tiny but taken from grid 30W. Currently the battery is at 25% charged.

If you look at the image you provided, the panels are not integrated, they stand on the top of the seams. You use rail less standing seam clamps.

I assume you know your build method? Read up on passivhaus build standards to get an appreciation of what is good or bad.

Need a big leaky house for that size heat pump - (3P). If you need that big a heat pump, is a heat pump the correct technology for your situation?

Full inverter output which I think is 6kW continuously and 7.2kW peak.

So after a couple of false starts the battery is being installed. Went with the Givenergy all in one, with is rated at 13.5kWh and allows a 100% at that capacity. It also gives a whole house uninterrupted power supply in the event of a power cut and allows my PV to function in a power outage. There Is a hope he will install it all today, but think he will be back tomorrow finish off, he has just been called away - typical. First difficulty was getting in the upstairs plant room (through loft hatch) luckily I had installed a winch for the DHW cylinder, so we used that. The gateway unit, controls the power flow, batteries, mains power, consumer unit, PV, vehicle charge point all connect to this. This will be located directly above the consumer unit and meter. Needed to run a new earth spike to the unit and new cable for a stand-alone generator, these are inserted through the J tube going under the house. Battery and inverter, without access, trim panels installed. Had to move MVHR pipes, as the unit is free standing.

Does anyone install them now, we are getting E7 it will be through a programmed smart meter, even though our smart meter, will be dumb, as we cannot connect to the radio link due to very poor signal.

You were sure you needed a new boiler at the start of this thread. Many ways to skin a cat, LLH or 4 port buffer is one - they are the same thing, one just a bigger volume than the other), 2 port buffer or volumisers are another. Before you commit to a LLH, have read up on them, heat geek is a good place to start. Unless designed and installed really well can be less efficient. I too would install weather compensation, but suspect your head and wallet have already gone down the multiple zones and thermostatic valves route. Must say you are asking a lot of questions to a lot of people, I will get my coat at this point, and leave you to it.

Not sure how I calculated the previous posts. Must have had a decimal place wrong or something. But also the floor temp would be closer to say 23 at the perimeter not UFH flow temp. So for a building regs detail, with a 50m perimeter. The heat loss is for the total perimeter. 0.1 X 50 x 17 x 0.2568 = 22W or 0.5kWh per day. For other detail I referenced 0.1 X 50 x 17 x 0.1435 = 12W or 0.3kWh per day.