bassanclan

You also need to check exactly what the deed says. Also it doesn't look that nice! As an aside, you don't need planning permission for a 6ft high hedge.

It would work better where no rain can get to the door, which is how it is in my case with a large portico. There are two seals on the threshold strip, so shouldn't get past that, but I have put a couple of small plastic tubes (green) to direct any water outside a bit like a weep vent would work

In a similar situation to you I used this: https://www.marchesironmongery.co.uk/exitex-mwk-r-2-20-weatherbar-mill-various-lengths.html (Got it a bit cheaper from website called Hebden & Holding) I set the stone cill 10-15mm higher, removed the front sloped section from the floorbar and the piece that you fix to the face of the door. You can just see a narrow black rubber strip along the bottom now, so minimal aluminium on show

Assuming your drawings are by hand, when they are digitised the scaling could be altered which is why they want a scale bar

You may have drawn diagrams, with measurements, but if they are not to scale then they could give a misrepresentation of what the building looks like

I know you don't want to hear this, but you are 100% at fault. Planning permission has nothing to do with building regs. You could apply for a kitchen extension with a 1m high ceiling, then the building inspector could come along and say the roof should be 2.4m high - that doesn't mean you have planning permission to build it! If you are able to provide drawings of what you submitted and either drawings or photos of what you actually built then we can help

Would the flat roof fall under permitted development?

https://www.tarmac.com/products/asphalt/ulticolour/

What they want to know is if you start the build, get the foundations in and then suddenly stop paying the mortgage they can get their money back. If will cost an everyday person 400-700k to build, but the finished house may only be worth say £500k, then a mortgage company may have reservations about lending as how much would the land be worth? It's only worth something to those who have "free" labour

You don't have any complaint against the roofer, you have no contract with them. They are working for your neighbour and that is who you have a problem with. She is easy to track down!

It wouldn't surprise me if the socket/spigot of that downpipe joint have been put in the wrong way round!

Carborundum stone might help?

In a similar situation looking at quotes etc. Parts looking like £1250-1500 of fully installed £5000. My cheapest quote so far is from GatesGates as recommended by @nod on another thread

I wish someone had told my electrician this! He fitted Saxby downlights. £10-12 each and they haven't lasted 18 months. I will systematically change them over time

I think a council would struggle to enforce against the permitted development. In theory the garage could be knocked down and then the porch would be entirely permitted development, which makes a mockery of the guidance

Glue is a better bet in this instance. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364771798768?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ov-2yzu-rew&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sZUbc1BTTHO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Foam would have been ideal if you were fixing to bricks etc where there might be frogs etc.

Yes thats what I was getting at, if you had a socket nearby you could just leave it charging all the time if you were so inclined

Low expansion foam or adhesive depending on what you are fixing to

It is too big for a porch pd, but it is pd single storey: If the extension is within 2m of a boundary, maximum eaves height should be no higher than 3m to be permitted development.

I'm thinking about this now that the blinds are up! A lot of the electric blind kits Ive seen are actually battery powered with a charge needed every 3-6months (allegedly)

You don't need architect plans for that job. Just bear in mind PD limits for eaves and ridge heights of your porch (i presume flat roof anyway?) Save your architect money and put it into insulating the garage as much as you can

Solicitor at their cost. Put your objection in, with a caveat saying it will be removed if the developer can agree a legally binding undertaking

Don't seal! Paint with watered down non-vinyl emulsion e.g. contract matt or specific paint for new plaster. MacPherson Eclipse is a good start

Are you going to be on site managing the project making sure everyone is doing what they should be doing every day? If so the the open book or managing subbies yourself can work, but otherwise the costs can run away and you can end up paying for phantom labour!

Where the old dining/kitchen wall is being replaced by a steel, you will want a "nib" or brick pier to support the steel. You can engineer this out, but obviously cost more and you need to clear about it from the start