PeterW

They can go pretty much anywhere but really should be in the boiler return pipe as it catches the crud before it gets to the boiler itself. I’ve used this one before as it also has a gauze filter to catch other rubbish and it makes an easy dosing pot for additives directly into the circuit. Reducing a short section to 22mm wouldn’t affect the flow tbh and you could do that with a couple of compression connectors and a reducing set in each.

Manual lock over is the way to fill a system

Very good product and service is good too. TBH as you’re in Scotland then ask @craig what their costs would be as wasn’t far off what I got the 3G ones for.

Yep - manually open a valve to trigger the pumps but ignore the boiler is a good way to clear air from a system.

Tbh I never put inhibitor in until it’s all leak tested as otherwise you’re chucking money away when you drain down again. Get the system full of water now and get it cycling to get the air out of the rads etc then run the boiler up.

Tried Modern uPVC Windows ..?? Impressed with their 3G product but not sure about delivery..! https://www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk

My guess then is it’s an AVC Smartline which is actually classed as a UVC under the regs as the water in the inside tank is at mains pressure not gravity pressure..... They need a lot of other kit to make them legal to install - control set, expansion vessel and decent discharge pipework to begin with. You could get a decent thermosyphon going but tbh I would stick a £50 pump and pipe stat on the pipework and boost the flow between the two. If it fails then it will still thermosyphon but you will need to add a metal header tank to the set up as a plastic one will be unsafe.

Put the valve in, wrap PTFE across the join between the olive and the brass body and then do it up with some of your favourite goo on it ...

Before - two or three wraps on the olive. Looking at that sludge I would also plan to put a mag filter in the circuit somewhere and whack inhibitor in after running some system cleaner through it for a few weeks. Look on BES, they have a Cura branded one that is really tidy and cheap - their inhibitor and desludge is good too at about £3 a bottle.

Welcome By what you’re describing you mean that the store upper connection would be 700mm higher than the boiler output, and the input 300mm higher ..?? Doesn’t seem to make sense ..? A thermosyphon will work happily at 2-300mm head, it’s an upward flow due to heat and will happily pull water up a couple of storeys. If the store weighs 800kg then I guess it’s around 600 litres..?? That’s a big store and a lot of water to heat. If you check the instructions for the stove it is not guaranteed to run on an unpressurised circuit and should have a circulation pump, heat dump circuit and heat exchanger - I take it you didn’t get any of this lot with it..??

Rockwool is however full of dust so you do need good masks.

Really pleased for you @Christine Walker..!! I would leave that butterfly valve open to the air vent, top up the pressure to around 2 bar and then ensure the bypass is closed on the boiler return mixer. I would also get them back to fix that zone valve and get everything labelled up properly

@testom how have you wired these LEDs...?? Where have you taken to ground ..??

Open the AAV and just leave it open and let it clear itself. Stick the pressure up a little on the circuit too. Now looking at it, the right hand load valve just seems to take from the top of the tank until the lower tank is hot and that’s why the load valve is set up as it is. Any photos of the left side of the tank ..? And does it have an internal hot water coil ..??

Yes but yours is designed to be closed apparently due to stagnating temperatures ..!! That’s just a sodding AAV..!!

Next one ... automatic air vent has a closed valve below it .. if there is air in that system it can’t get out .. may be causing air locking

Right @Christine Walker It looks like the boiler load valve is on the left - arrowed green. If hubby opens the red butterfly valve it will bypass the load valve and the tank will draw from the bottom assuming the zone valve (with no cover) is open. Any chance of a photo of the tank as a whole ..?? Bottom connections too please ..? I think the load valve underneath the UFH blender is there to let hot water from the boiler go straight to the UFH/rads when the tank is cold as it will pull the heat out of the top otherwise. Still no no idea why the blenders are set up as a pair like that tho..! Have you got a design schematic ..??

Don’t give a flying fc&k to be honest, you don’t fit zone valves upside down ..!! Fit a box on the ceiling and put a sodding join in it..!!

And he needs to come back and re-install that zone valve marked with the yellow arrow as fitting them upside down is a no-no....

That’s weird. That unit is a Thermovar or a load valve. Normally they go between the tank and the stove, making the return temperature of the water to the stove higher so it doesn’t chill the boiler with a cold return. In that picture it looks like it’s in the same flow as the UFH and rad feed which also has a blending valve on it .... Not wanting to guess at this but I think they have the load valves set up wrong. The two blenders on the TS at the top are very odd as I’m assuming they either feed UFH or something else ..? Or does the UFH and rad circuit all go up the side through the one pump ..??

You can get a 3 phase rotary converters but they aren’t cheap and they have their limits. As @Onoff says, swapping the motors is quicker and cheaper as you can pick up second hand 2 & 3hp single phase motors on eBay for not a lot.

Who designed this lot btw..??

Any chance of a couple of additional photos ..?? one of what’s behind the pump (blue arrow) and a close up of the label on the brass unit with the red arrow..? Think it’s a load valve but not sure.

Why is the cover off the zone valve on the left side ..??

So that’s UFH to the right and rads to the left ..??