PeterW

It’s more about the SAP score for a new build rather than the flow rates. You have to meet the minimum extract rates for BRegs, the rest is academic if it’s a retrofit.

They are a generic unit but as they don’t want to spend several thousand pounds having them certified, then they don’t have them done. They are a very close copy of a Mitsubishi unit, and to be honest probably share a lot of components ...!

Seriously don’t bother ..! You’ll be there for ages and achieve nothing ... once there is 8-1200kg if shed on the plinth, it’s going nowhere ..!!

These units are not on the SAP register so score really poorly with the basic 75% efficiency from memory which can affect your BRegs approval. And to follow, just click the “Notify me of replies” slider at the bottom of the reply box.

You’ve probably cross threaded the nut - that’s why it’s turning. Resin will be fine but takes a full 36-48 hours to set completely so I wouldn’t be worried.

3 bolts is plenty Live, learn and carry on tomorrow.

nope ... Process of approach is ... Clean the holes (thin bit of hose and blow will do..!) wear safety specs as cement in the eye hurts .. Put a nut and washer onto the threaded rods so 10mm of thread is showing. Place the plates in place Inject resin into the holes drop the rods in, give each a push and one full turn. Don’t do anything with the nuts at this point. repeat for other pads go make a brew and get a couple of HobNobs (preferably chocolate) Drink the brew, check the weather for tomorrow then when 60 mins are up, go back outside. Take the nuts and washers off the rods, use additional washers to level the plates then put nuts and washers back on ... hand tight only. Tomorrow ... go back and tighten with a spanner..!! Job done ?

OK - so run 230v up to them and plug in something like a trickle charger (permanently) that then charges the batteries during off periods. Quick and easy.

No - that’s the wrong way ... it’s Plus to Max

Why is a 20mm difference a worry...?? Can make that off in the last couple of courses and the mortar under the pillar cap..??

That is ~500w so a cheap £30 inverter at the 12v end, 1.5mm2 230v extension lead and then 500w transformer at the load end. Change from £100 tops, far cheaper than a big fat cable.

Have you used the JG Speedfit Push Fit MDPE stuff from Screwfix...?? Hope you kept your receipt...

PHE is overkill here as they are good for multiple sources or where it’s not a “clean” source. You would still need a coil on the tank as otherwise you’ll need a Thermal Store and that needs much higher temperatures. They also have more moving parts and you need an additional pump.

Pretty easy to use - there are a couple of different systems but they work much better on a tile backer board so consider that rather than plasterboard. Interior systems are easier than exterior as they don’t need to be waterproof. Range in price from £20-40 sqm for the tiles plus grout and adhesive.

Welcome if you don’t have to hit building Regs / SAP then have a look at these systems from Boulder https://www.ventilationmegastore.co.uk/product/dhv-25n-unit/ @Nickfromwales used to have a couple of contacts I think there

Yes I’ve got one. mach3 is the software - G-code converter for the CNC board. You can get just USB boards but they tend to be a bit slow as they can’t transmit as fast as you basically have a massive USB DAC overhead so the actual G-Code translation is slow. Not ideal for plasma as that needs very fast and precise control. A router can go slow, a plasma going slow just creates a dripping mess ...

You can get USB ones. mach 3 is good but limited on the free versions

Yeh got one ... uses a parallel port connector though ..!! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254328587377

Err this ..?? Just add a an expansion vessel to the supply line

No because all that does is reduce flow not pressure.

nope - just follow the Manufacturers instructions, use a decent underlay and install that with decent laps (min 300mm) and make sure you don’t puncture it.

Its all in the technical datasheet Min 100mm headlap / 318mm max gauge https://redland.co.uk/settings/resources/files/documents/regent_product-datasheet0.pdf

I used a 1200x300 LED panel which was just on an extension lead - worked brilliantly (pardon the pun...) Screwfix now do a clamp on LED floodlight which is pretty good too. Festoons work ok, but unless you get expensive 110v High Output LED bulbs they aren't good as task lighting. Halogens do have a benefit of also giving off some heat which can be useful in certain circumstances.

So they look like a terracotta damp tube - they were a "passive" cure for damp that was tried a while back from a Dutch company. And they don't work !! https://www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/the-damp-con-collection/the-schrijver-damp-proofing-system.html

put a decent magnaclean in the system to start with.