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Posts
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Everything posted by Pocster
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Yep I’m sure I’ve got the wrong tap set as there’s no flexi hoses or any way of connecting
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Ok - they’re not cut able as threaded both ends . Don’t understand how a water supply fits to this ...
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Decided to go with the box approach . Assume the pipes are cutable to suit height of bath anyway ? CT1 timber to floor as ufh underneath . Some tees on hep20 so pipe can go up through stand pipes .
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Do you mean ‘last’ as in previous or ‘last’ as in final ? ?
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“Cooooorrrrrrrr ; you’re big ! “
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I know roughly where the bathroom heated towel radiator is going . So fed cable through . As sparky always seems worried about cabling in walls and being ‘insulated’ I.e restricted on heat dissipation - decided over the top trunking would keep him happy . Foamed it in . ( plus the red plastic pipe was spare )
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Oh ! More automation !!! Any links ? . How do you convert a tilt handle ( horizontal to vertical) to unlock ?? Its sad to do that for such limited use - but you’ve tempted me now !!
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My poles really long as you know !
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Very very very deep ! 65cm Also bath goes straight in front on it - so you’ll have to stand in the bath to open the window . Not much I could do about that - a small compromise
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Whilst everyone continues their obsession with the corona virus thread I decided to get on with marine ply and delta board around the window / bath end .
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Love to dry her grout
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@Onoff style !
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That's primitive man!. SWMBO will not be impressed. It *may* be possible to squeeze a tall but skinny one in elsewhere (I need to check) but maybe only 200mm wide.....
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We do have a small area of UFH in there aswell. SWMBO wants a 'space' heater.....
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yeah 0mm would be tight ?
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Hmmm, I'm guessing anything less than 80mm makes it almost impossible to put a towel over the rail. Limited places to put the towel rail in the ensuite though.....
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Struggling to find what I need for my ensuite. Problem is depth (projection from wall). If you wish to stand in front the vanity unit you really need to be next to the wall. Therefore a deep projection from a towel rail will be problematic. I have looked at expensive minimalist ones - but SWMBO wants it to heat the room also. Any suggestions?
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Yeah . I think I’ll come back to sills . They left me other issues like this - see photo and their foam filled ‘gap’ solution . Cladding isn’t timber it’s Marley cedral stuff .
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Snagging list ! F me ! That will takes months to write and years to fix all the issues . But as a start ( just off the top of my head ) 1) Leaky underground dwelling etc. Etc . ?
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Put a few more in . As mentioned the cut edge is a pig . Pushed a bit of trim along the edge . Looks a lot better just a mm or so out - reckon this will do for now ! ( last photo ) - with a bit more effort .
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I thought that might be possible . Who / how do I get these made ?
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I think I get what you are saying but this cladding when cut gives a crap edge and needs trim to hide it . I did think of something like that but couldn’t bring myself to break the consistently of the front.
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Not really able to move studding ‘in’ . Bevelling edges would require a skilled man with infinite patience . Will continue across with the easy parts and see how much it annoys me everyday noticing it . Funnily enough had a different issue with the cladding in the rear . Took the whole lot down to fix a piece that stuck out 3mm . I swore a lot .
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Yep . It’s never the exact same colour . Managed to pull it in a bit tighter - will touch up the top of that lower panel part and see if I can get away with it . Else more trim over it . @AdamSee yep . Sill should sit past cladding ; window company knew that but on install day said that’s the widest sill they do . I can arrange it so that any water running via the sill runs over dpc which is ontop the timber supports. This was installers suggestion on the day . Last photo shows their black dpc which goes over the timber membrane- so any water in a worst case scenario runs behind and on the cladding board which is supposedly everything proof .
