Pocster

Yeah I can do that . It’s the ‘removal ‘ of the sanicompact when it fails that is the issue . I can fit it now easily and batten out the walls . But it will be impossible to remove without breaking the walls .

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/documents/saniflo-golden-rules-for-macerator-installation-1001.pdf I wonder how critical 3 is ? I can do 1 wide curve but not the other ( just a swept T ) . Lift is only 1 metre . Does it matter ?? help me out @Nickfromwales 😁👍

I think I know what to do ! No 100% pipes hidden , but pretty good and allows the unit to be removed when it fails I.e when wet wipe or more likely Lego gets chucked down it .

It’s been available in the U.K. for a few good years ….

Possibly . Unfortunately waste goes to the left and basin in goes to the right . So you would need an enclosure on both sides

Magic I think https://www.saniflo.co.uk/installing-a-toilet/74-sanicompact.html

Only sensible way I can see of doing this. Red pipe is discharge pipe and is surface mounted! ( Grrrrrrr ). So vertical down in corner then right with a fleicone ( or similar ) to make remove etc. easier. Green pipe is sink outlet in the stud work and pops out to the right of the pan. Easier to access there with jubilee clips Water inlet just gets 'pushed' up inside the wall ; plenty of length on it if pan needs to be pulled forward. EDIT: though I could box in the red discharge pipe at least until the bottom I suppose.....

What about this for the waste discharge? https://unifloproducts.co.uk/product/flexible-extendable-40-32mm-waste-inlet-tube/ It looks like jubilee clip each end ( I assume not solvent weld ) - so that does mean when it connects to the 'proper' discharge pipe embedded in the wall it would be jubilee clip - which means it will not be accessible ( which I don't like )

Yeah I know. I can build the stud wall around it - but then when it fails I'm stuffed. This compact unit doesn't have a cistern.... Ideally ( when it fails ); remove the screws that clamp unit to the floor then slide it forward so all pipework is accessible - just can't see how to achieve that ; flexible macerator output pipe?????

I just can't see how to do any of it and have pipe/taps concealed. There's no way I can get my hand down either side to loosen/tighten a jubilee clip. Too make matters worse the inlet for a sink is on the right; whilst my sink is on the left meaning discharge outlet and sink inlet must cross each other 😠

Actually all the fittings are a dog as jubilee clip . Can’t see how to fix it all water tight and have access to remove it if an issue ; yet tight to the wall . Tempted to make the whole lower section of that wall a removable panel . This wc will be tiled . Best solution ??

Macerator water feed is a pain . Ideally I want it ‘hidden ‘ - but may need access if unit needs removing . Even if I surface mount this appliance tap I’ll still have to have some tee to get it into the wall . Will look pants ! That hose is nice and non flexible- I’m reluctant to shorten it as it’s the supplied pre installed pipe .

@Nickfromwales Will be angry with you

I know . He probably did a fitting as it was easier . Tbh he’s done thousand of soldered joints - never seen one leak until then ; Sod’s law .

Incredible as it will sound my late father was a plumber ( yes I learned zero from him ) . Old skool ; so copper everywhere and perfectly neat . One day he put a copper tee in a corner to go under a kitchen worktop . I saw this and said Hep2o would bend round that corner no fitting needed . He hated push fit . 6 months later his soldered joint leaked . Had to remove granite worktop and units to get to it . You can imagine what I said 😂

Yes 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Well ! F off @Big Jimbo before I answer . Solvent weld on all major pipework in my opinion . If you have a tricky fitting use black tiger ( thanks @joe90 or similar ) because it’s takes hours to set not seconds like the usual stuff . I didn’t want a push fit in a location I can never reach ….

@Thorfun if you haven’t already . Get proper pipe cutters 👍

My pennies worth ( because that’s all it’s worth ) 2. I’m certain some brands can vary in size . So be careful - I try to get the same brand of fitting and pipe to avoid issues . 3. 😁 I start at both ends . I like to get the basic soil pipe in place so I have some idea where everything will ultimately end up . 4. Things like this always cause me issues . If I measure and ‘allow’ a bit for pipe adjustments etc. I usually end up changing it anyway . So now I buy pan / frame / basin etc. all well in advance . Then I’ve got the real thing and tbh I can make my pipework etc. suit what I need . It’s an amateur way of doing it - but works for me .

I’ve seen a speedfit fitting leak a few times . You could say wasn’t installed properly. But under stress ( pipe perhaps a bit bent so pulling on the fitting ) I think they can leak . I got a ‘gift’ pack from wavin ( just a tee and 2 pipes ) . I tried my best to make it leak ; I couldn’t .

I’m fairly confident I asked all this at the start of my plumbing experience and was told to use 15mm for everything. I’ve not experienced any issues .

Do 15mm then no issues

For a self build and zero plumbing skill it is the only way to go . Obviously for purists and those with experience may prefer copper etc . Hep2o skill required is almost zero . Once you’ve done a run you’ll see how easy it is . Funnily enough I’m doing some today . Off my manifold of manifolds . Hot & cold to basin then run for toilet supply .