vfrdave

My house is recently plastered and I have noticed that we have some mould appearing largely on areas that are plasterboard behind and some tdoor frames. I have tried to keep the place ventilated as much as possible to allow for drying. What should I do with this or how should I treat before painting.

Like @Alphonsox says in NI it seem more reasonable. The economy 7 day rate is only 0.4pence a unit more expensive than standard with an 8p a day standing charge. I need to try and do some sums to quantify.

Having looked at this some more the cost of ashp (size dependent), install kit and controller is largely comparable to oil boiler, tank, pipework etc give or take a few hundred. How DHW is dealt with is potentially where the cost comes. A cylinder would largely be equivalent cost wise to a thermal store for oil boiler. Sunamp charged by economy 7 is an attractive proposition but largely more expensive. To say my head is in a spin is an understatement. My head is melted.

@joe90 living in NI Im not sure that @Ricco or myself would be eligible to apply for what seems to be an RHI based offering on your ebay link

@Barney12 I noticed that also but I am unsure as to what I would need or not, ie the fitting kit an additional controller to get a proper set up etc etc

It escaped me that it was 9 years old I'm guessing not as efficient as a newer one. As you say @PeterW wouldn't want to pay that much, they are open to offers it seems.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153137536987 Is this unit any good and what are the controls of it like having read that some units are hard to setup.

Thanks. I have been somewhat demotivated this last week or so and done nothing. To make it all worse I do my 5 days work hours, and some more, in 4 days to get a day off for the house.

Yes that is now the concern. I want clarity on it as it is not bear cable but is a pvc conduit. If needs be I can put the DPM over the conduit as a barrier.

I was chatting with Nick regarding some plumbing bits and bobs and we got onto some electrics. What would the guidance be for electric cables in conduit in EPS floor insulation. Is there any concern? I have a few runs for the likes of the kitchen island and sockets under corner windows that have been trunked across the sub floor in pvc conduit.

I have one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-led-rechargeable-led-work-light-23w-12-240v/7042k It's been great last a couple of hours easily. I plug it in to the 12v in the boot of the car and let it charge when I drive to and from work, then it's ready for the evening slog in the new house.

@Nickfromwales I will concede it was a back of a fag packet price with a basic boiler and not considering slab/install etc, plus my head like @Ricco is in a spin with all this. Does the sunamp require approved installer? Fancy some consultation in NI?

@Nickfromwales are the sunamp an approved installer job as well?

More expansive than a boiler and oil tank along with thermal store but is there less plumbing required also?

This sounds like an expensive solution but I am uninformed to sunamp costs and running costs. Can anyone provide more info.

I have a very similar setup requirement as @Ricco Approx 11 zones UFH across 2 manifolds on a floor area of 240sqm approx (bungalow) A small towel/radiator circuit DHW The house floor is the traditional sub-floor/insulation build up/ 50 or 60mm flow screed with UFH therefore not the floor slab buffer like yours. This is a typical NI floor construction, we largely haven't evolved to passive rafts. I too was going to go with a thermal store but my head is in such a spin now based on conflicting advice and what has been said above. I did have an earlier post on here and Im almost certain @Nickfromwales advised a thermal store most suitable despite the heat loss risk. @JSHarris you reference the heating requirement which of the figures form your heat loss spreadsheet should I reference?

I have this galvanised pole by the front door wife doesn't want it just painted. What can we do with it? Block wall behind it will be clad with a limestone.

@JSHarris some good advice there. Can you explain in some detail or point us to a youtube video that instructs how to carry out the tests outlined if achievable by a reasonably competent DIY person.

I have been struggling with this mail me as well. The head says to insulate but so much conflicting advice about suitability of insulation under floor. I think @AliG has made my mind up to not insulate the garage floor.

At the minute the threshold is only the height of the finished garage floor. Therefore this will leave me with 50mm of insulation and 50mm of cemfloor at that interface. Should I therefore get a small channel of floor poured 100mm deep at the door?

Thanks @Declan52 NI building regs still stay a 100mm step. This leads me to another question as to how I do where the 2 floors meet. House floor is 100mm higher but screed is only 50mm cemfloor.

@Temp I will check but NI regs may be different. Saying that the garage has been built allowing for 100mm difference, though I could probably still do a level there should with house. Just means I would loose 100mm in the door height for cars. Any further advice on the suitability of insulation in a garage floor, @Declan52 you are sure to be wise to these things. There was an engineer on the forum but I can't remember who it was.

@epsilonGreedy the garage is attached to the house.

I am currently working through this for my own build currently and dont really know where to go. The three options I have appear to be as follows:- 200mm Kore Grey insulation u-value 0.123 100mm PIR & 100mm Kore Grey u-value 0.106 200mm PIR u-value 0.093 From worst to best I dont think there is a massive saving in energy costs compared to the extra cost of the insulation product, though will welcome all advice.

@Alphonsox I know you spoke to beacon broadband before. Did you check with airfibre or bluebox