MortarThePoint
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Everything posted by MortarThePoint
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I'm buying my decoupling mat in the next day or so. Best I can find is £7.40(ex) per m2 for Durabase £221.99 for 30m2). Tiler has mentioned Nass Boards as a cheaper alternative (£6.33/m2). Where did you get that price as it's very good? I presume it's 7x30m2 so that's less than £4/m2.
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The last resort if you got caught out by this shower elbow issue and it not coming out far enough, you could change the covers to ones that are tighter to the wall. It would make the shower bar tighter to the wall, but it's perhaps an option: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005003674213511.html You can even find some with rubber seals.
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A different approach but not where I am now and I'm not going back to square one when there are good solutions where I am. I think you need to chase the blockwork A lot deeper to fit the elbow. A small downside of that approach is the centres aren't fixed. I'm doing this elsewhere in a stud wall.
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An additional concern with this approach is that the bush would need tightening and there's no spanner access. You could lock it off using the nut supplied on the tube though. These straight adaptors address that problem, but are only 51mm long.
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I wondered about going that route and then using a tails connection kit (image below). I'm not confident there is enough meat in the blockwork around this though to get the securing screws in for that though.
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I've ordered these (BES) for quick delivery. I have also found another option which is using longer offset connectors: Those are 65mm total length, but there are also 60mm and 50mm ones. There are even 75mm ones and probably other lengths too if you search hard enough. Also available in silver colour. If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local. I think I prefer the BES option as it can be fitted and tanked at this stage. I suppose the straight one can too, but then you have to be sure of centres etc.
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Mira Flight aren't 90mm otherwise I would have swapped to McAlpine
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Gulp, hopefully the Mira Flight one is OK as I'll be wrestling with that in a few days
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I'm glad I've spotted the issue now. I'm getting ready to tank it all (Aquaseal) so whilst the delay isn't welcomed, hopefully I won't have to muddle a fix later
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Oh to have a plumbers van with all these bits in.
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Using this with the Hep2o fittings / pipes at or below the surface of the blockwork means that the female thread is about level with blockwork surface. That means once tile is added, the thread is recessed quite a bit (10 - 15mm). How do you hand that so that you can then use a standard mixer bar with its offset connector thingies (shown below)? The ones I have don't accommodate going much behind the included cover.
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Right angle toilet connection (and AAV thoughts)
MortarThePoint replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Waste & Sewerage
That was the only way I could think you'd done it. I've thought of doing that too so good to know someone has already done it successfully -
Right angle toilet connection (and AAV thoughts)
MortarThePoint replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Waste & Sewerage
Interesting, how did you attach the 50mm to the bend? -
I'm wondering if I should go with a straightforward right angle WC connector (below) or use a roddable elbow and straight connector. I've never rodded through the pan of a toilet before. After this point there is about a 1m horizontal run before a branch laid on its back that is for an AAV. Difficult, but may be able to rod through there. Would be easier if I have a removable tile panel above that horizontal zone (at end of bath). Separately, I'm wondering about using two 50mm AAVs instead of a single 110mm one. One would connect to the previously mentioned branch, the second would be on the 50mm tee. Both are before the vertical section of soil pipe and the advantages are space saving and the one on the 50mm tee can help with the bath and shower . https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors/rigid-wc-connectors/90-bend-adjustable-length-rigid-wc-connector/
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Back to bathrooms and the like, which is better Acetoxy (stinky vinegar) or Neutral cure? I'm considering these two: Dow 785+ Bacteria-Resistant Sanitary Silicone White 310ml (58308) Dow 785N Sanitary Sealant White 310ml (800FG) Both have fungicide,
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Ideally I would and in most places have made some sort of provision. But for the shower valve attachment they are going to get tiled over so it would be a job, but not impossible to get at them again.
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I've used this (or similar) for one of my showers
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Mainly for providing a point of connection at the end of runs for bath and basin taps, loo cisterns etc. I don't want Hep2O going into a loo cistern as doesn't look so good.
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The French have their own classification system that covers building products in general: ÉMISSIONS DANS LÁIR INTÉRIEUR Their strictest classification is A+ which has a Formaldehyde limit of 10ug/m3. NB: That is the same limit as the Finnish M1 classification. That has led me to a manufacturer of Marine Plywood (BS1088) that is A+: Joubert Plywood No idea if you can get it anywhere in the UK, but if it was a big project that needed the answer there it is. Irritatingly, there English language page and datasheet don't have the A+ rating shown, which again shows how hard it is to find the information for this topic.
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Yes, could do that way too. Probably better as I have just seen that some people advise against inaccessible compression fittings which makes sense.
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A major weakness in the Hep2O system is the lack of a brass wall plate elbow. They use to do them, but now only do the plastic ones (£7.90) which just aren't up to the task in my mind. JG Speedfit do a brass wall plate elbow (£11.23) and I have seen installations that use these with everything else being Hep2O. JG Speedfit make a slightly mixed statement about compatibility, but that feels like the lawyers got involved when in reality they are compatible. An alternative would be to use a Hep2O straight coupler onto a short length of copper pipe and then a brass wall plate elbow (e.g. compression). That's extra joints and expensive if you're buying copper pipe just for that bit. If you have lot's to do, then you would be looking at: Hep2O Plastic Push-Fit Equal Coupler 15mm £1.75 100mm of copper pipe £0.30 Brass Compression Adapting 90° Wall Plate Elbow £2.80 So £4.85 total which is £3 cheaper than the Hep2O plastic wall plate elbow. It has two extra joints though which is not ideal as adds two extra potential failure points. I used a Hep2O Plastic Push-Fit Adapting Male Coupler 15mm x 1/2" (£4.85) into a 1/2" x 1/2" wall plate elbow (~£4) which was hard to find.
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Best way to shorten a joist?
MortarThePoint replied to Sparrowhawk's topic in General Construction Issues
You could cut the joist short and use a trimmer between the neighbouring joist and a face fix hanger on the wall. You'd need to check the wall is OK with the extra load though. -
Shower Trap to Solvent Weld Connection
MortarThePoint replied to MortarThePoint's topic in General Plumbing
Thanks, but that would need a length of PP pipe between the trap and the universal connection of that adaptor. As it turns out, I've now found a spare adaptor in a load of bits so think I'm OK. Others may still benefit from a link here if there is one. -
I'm using 40mm solvent weld abs for my shower wastes, but the shower traps have compression fittings and at least one (Crosswater STHFW6190) can't accommodate the larger 40mm solvent weld pipe. I need an adaptor between compression fit (same as pushfit?) and solvent weld. McAlpine appear to include these with some of their shower traps, but I can't see it as an individual item: Any suggestions?
