MortarThePoint

The edges don't align and the walls were very flat (rendered). I don't like the levelling system so much, but this feels too far from tolerance as I can pick it up with an inexperienced eye.

@Nickfromwales and @nod you know what quality to expect. Do I need to have a word with the tiler or am expecting too much? To be clear, the issue was spotted by eye in a number of places before trying a short straight edge on it.

Has our first room tiled and noticed that some tiles out sticking out or sunken slightly. Below is one of the worst examples where it fits a 2mm packer.any fit a 1mm packer though. The tiles themselves seem to be very flat, so are laid unlevel. The tiles are 300mm x 100mm. What's an acceptable tolerance here? Am I fussy or is this not good enough?

Does anyone have a good source of information about design flow rates through different sized waste pipes? The closest I have found is NHBC say drainage pipe runs should be designed to maintain a self-cleansing velocity (0.7 m/s). That's drainage rather than waste, but hopefully 0.7m/s still applies (about half of walking pace). Using that and the ID of each pipe size I can work out some flow rates for various 'fill levels': PIPE ID. C-A. FILL. CAPACITY 32mm. 8cm2. 50%. 17L/min 32mm. 8cm2. 20%. 7L/min 40mm. 13cm2. 50%. 26L/min 40mm. 13cm2. 20%. 10L/min 50mm. 20cm2. 50%. 41L/min 50mm. 20cm2. 20%. 16L/min A pipe filled to a quarter of its depth is 20% full by area. I've just used nominal pipe IDs. I presume things get a lot more complicated what the pipe starts to get full, hence limiting FILL to 50%. A 26L/min feels high for 40mm pipe but that's what the numbers suggest and it tallies with this McAlpine shower trap. Should mean a 12L/min shower will be absolutely fine through 40mm (1.5") waste pipe. Does that bear true through experience?

I can appreciate you want something that goes off through reaction rather than simply drying out since it's between a waterproof tile and waterproof tanking. Do the ready mix ones go back to sloppy when they get wet too (i.e. not waterproof)? Leaving grout off for a while sounds a good idea when tanking has been used to let the moisture out. I can see it would be slow though as the moisture has a fair way to go, particularly on larger format tiles.

I've got a tiler coming so hopefully he won't want to use that. Is that stuff more for the DIY market?

Here's a good comparison and Neutral Cure appears better for my needs.

I've fitted Classi Plus tape to the edge of the bath against the wall. The wall has a slight bulge in the middle so at the ends of the bath there is an approx 3-4mm gap (image below). The Classi tape itself is thicker than I'd like, but that's what it is. My main question is can the tiler build out the wall here to compensate? @nod is that standard stuff or am I facing a problem?

It is tempting to try to avoid it. My screed has been down for two years now (UFH heated for a year when weather needed it) and it adds about £2,000 to the overall tiling cost. It would be gutting to have cracked tiles though.

CTD has closed down near us. I think it's been bought by Topps Tiles

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I'm buying my decoupling mat in the next day or so. Best I can find is £7.40(ex) per m2 for Durabase £221.99 for 30m2). Tiler has mentioned Nass Boards as a cheaper alternative (£6.33/m2). Where did you get that price as it's very good? I presume it's 7x30m2 so that's less than £4/m2.

The last resort if you got caught out by this shower elbow issue and it not coming out far enough, you could change the covers to ones that are tighter to the wall. It would make the shower bar tighter to the wall, but it's perhaps an option: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005003674213511.html You can even find some with rubber seals.

A different approach but not where I am now and I'm not going back to square one when there are good solutions where I am. I think you need to chase the blockwork A lot deeper to fit the elbow. A small downside of that approach is the centres aren't fixed. I'm doing this elsewhere in a stud wall.

An additional concern with this approach is that the bush would need tightening and there's no spanner access. You could lock it off using the nut supplied on the tube though. These straight adaptors address that problem, but are only 51mm long.

I wondered about going that route and then using a tails connection kit (image below). I'm not confident there is enough meat in the blockwork around this though to get the securing screws in for that though.

I've ordered these (BES) for quick delivery. I have also found another option which is using longer offset connectors: Those are 65mm total length, but there are also 60mm and 50mm ones. There are even 75mm ones and probably other lengths too if you search hard enough. Also available in silver colour. If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local. I think I prefer the BES option as it can be fitted and tanked at this stage. I suppose the straight one can too, but then you have to be sure of centres etc.

Mira Flight aren't 90mm otherwise I would have swapped to McAlpine

Gulp, hopefully the Mira Flight one is OK as I'll be wrestling with that in a few days

I'm glad I've spotted the issue now. I'm getting ready to tank it all (Aquaseal) so whilst the delay isn't welcomed, hopefully I won't have to muddle a fix later

Oh to have a plumbers van with all these bits in.

Here's a photo of it screwed together and the cover is tight to blockwork so no space for tiles

Using this with the Hep2o fittings / pipes at or below the surface of the blockwork means that the female thread is about level with blockwork surface. That means once tile is added, the thread is recessed quite a bit (10 - 15mm). How do you hand that so that you can then use a standard mixer bar with its offset connector thingies (shown below)? The ones I have don't accommodate going much behind the included cover.

That was the only way I could think you'd done it. I've thought of doing that too so good to know someone has already done it successfully

Interesting, how did you attach the 50mm to the bend?