Thorfun

and the very knowledgeable folk on here that give great advice or even another avenue of investigation. once you start on here you will soon realise the number of rabbit holes that you can fall in to trying to find information. but hopefully you come back out of the hole in a more informed position!

my Intello Plus is inside of ALL the insulation. i fitted 140mm glass wool between the studs, 80mm PIR on top of the studs, then my AVCL membrane, followed by a 25mm service cavity. i don't recall reading a single self-build on here where they didn't have some form of VCL membrane internally to the insulation. even if that was simple plastic sheeting. i'm a cynical ******* and so i'm thinking that a company might say anything to save some money and not have to install a physical membrane! maybe post a question in the relevant forum on this subject? or do a quick search to see if anyone else has done it.

maybe! i don't know. i'm working on the theory that it's better to have and not need than to not have and need. can you tell that we're winging it? 😉

hey, this comment has me a bit worried and maybe someone else who knows more than me can comment. but even though taped PIR/PUR may act as a reasonable air tight barrier i don't think it's a vapour control layer. most people seem to use a specific AVCL membrane or some TF companies use airtight OSB (i believe it's called propassiv iirc). @SteamyTea is a smart cookie and might know how good PIR is as a VCL.

this is my understanding but, as you'll find out if you read some of my other threads, i'm wrong quite often, especially when it comes to plumbing! 😂 our M&E consultants specified a 12l buffer. when the heating engineers came to install it all i had a discussion with them about the buffer size as i thought it was small especially when reading about other buffer sizes on here. after our chat we decided that as they had a 100l buffer in the van going spare that they would install that as a straight swap for my 12l buffer as they had another job that required a small buffer so they weren't out of pocket at all. seemed like a bargain and win-win situation for me so i said go for it! so that is how my decision on buffer tanks was made. not very scientific at all. hopefully it will all work out well in the end.

most TF companies will offer a timber frame and windows but to get to weather tight you'd need the roof being put on as well. this is normally out of scope for TF companies, at least it was when i was looking. i presume you're going to project manage the rest of the project post weather tight superstructure erection? if so, what's stopping you from sourcing your own roofer? that way you're not limiting yourself to companies that offer the roof as part of the erection.

well, the Loxone light switches have built in temp sensors so I will also have room sensors. I'm treating the basement and, eventually, the gf ufh as a 'let's live in it and see how it goes' experiment. a lot of folk on here say that you only need a single zone for heating in a well insulated air tight house so that's how I'll run it for a year or so and see how it goes. if we find that we need individual control over certain rooms then I can add actuators that are controllable by Loxone to allow that.

sounds good to me. do your TF company offer any sort of guaranteed airtightness level? it'd be a shame to put all that insulation in only to have the house leak air! if they've not mentioned anything maybe ask them what their airtight policies and procedures are.

the logic was i was copying others on here! 😂 the temp probes will feed back to our home automation system to allow, if required, to monitor the temp of the screed and adjust flow temp/heating accordingly. tbh, i doubt i'll ever use them but for the small expense of purchasing them from ebay and putting them in while we did the UFH it was a bit of a no-brainer to have them just in case. as to where and how many, i just put one per room.

our basement has 200mm EPS under the slab as an insulated slab. at the time I wanted to run the UFH pipes within the slab but it didn't work out that way and so we eventually put down 25mm PIR on top of the slab (mostly to aid in the stapling down of the UFH pipes rather than anything else) and then UFH pipes followed by a 50mm cemfloor liquid screed. I don't see a problem doing it this way except for the extra cost.

we didn't put PIR inside studs. our studs are filled with 140mm glass wool (Isover 32) with 80mm/100mm PIR internal to the studs. What IS a PITA is cutting that internal PIR around the roof attic trusses. no issues when insulating internally on cut roofs as it's simply a large sheet screwed through to the rafters/studs. but, if the OP is going pumped cellulose in a 140mm TF then I would suggest they consider other companies that offer twin wall 300mm thick walls fully pumped with cellulose and get rid of the petroleum based insulation. Although, if the TF company is doing the PIR install work for you then it's not such a ball ache! I'm sure I've saved a load of money doing it myself but it is so very time consuming I do kind of regret it.

Got nothing to lose giving it a go I guess, although it is a small DJI Mini drone. Need to wait for the sun to come out next week though.

I do, at some point, need to purchase a scaffold tower to board and decorate our vaulted ceilings. Maybe I should wait until I have one and do it from that.

Would be a lot of fun!

Although, that’s actually a darn good idea! Might be tricky to shuffle it along and would involve lots of pulling it back and throwing it up again. But could work. Will add it to the list of things to try.

How is that ‘on the cheap’?

just had a great idea! although it might be straight out of the @pocster handbook I have a drone..........make a 'flag' and attach it to the bottom of the drone and fly that up quite a way away from the panels so the flag doesn't need to be big to shade a larger area! genius. what could possibly go wrong?

I'd rather do it on the cheap and I'm ok on a ladder but it's a valid point. will have a go myself and then if/when I fail will call my roofer. 😂

Cheers. Fortunately the wife is pretty darn good with a sewing machine so I’ll give her the job of making the shade. Then wait for a sunny day and take it one panel at a time.

don't suppose you have space in the ceiling to have a drop down mechanism to hide the projector away? that'd be so cool and also negate the need for extra cupboards to hide it. 😉

greetings. long story short, I have a list of solaredge optimiser serial numbers but I need to figure out which one is behind which panel on my roof. no scaffolding and GSE trays so couldn't see the optimiser even if I did have scaffolding. I have access to the installer monitoring/site setup website at solaredge.com (which is where I see the S/Ns) and want to monitor my per-panel energy generation via the optimisers but need to know where each is! I was thinking a 'sail' or piece of fabric on the end of a long pole to shade each panel one at a time and noting which serial number reduced in generation? anyone got any better ideas or know of a better way to do this?

I like the built-in look too but would worry about the projector overheating. what if you put a grill behind the projector that vents (via a small computer fan?) in to the kitchen? then the warm air will be taken away by the MVHR extract in there? just a thought. I wouldn't worry about fan noise as, even though you will hear the fan when you have the sound up on the film/tv/game you're utilising the projector for you won't hear the fan.

It’s a long and convoluted route from the comms room in the basement to that cupboard! Might make any ducting impractical for pulling cables through.

in my opinion it is way too high to install! find other companies and get other quotes and don't waste any more time with this company. mine is a long story but, to cut it short, a local company installed my ASHP, UVC, buffer tank. they also wired up the electrics (I'd already run an SWA cable for them), connected my mains water connection to the cylinder, lagged all the pipes, connected it all up to my UFH manifold and got my heating going and will be back to connect the UVC up to my domestic water manifolds. all for under £4k.

ps. I might run a fibre cable and a couple of cat6a cables to that cupboard off the garage anyway for future potential use. got nothing to lose really apart from some £s in cable.