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Thorfun

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Everything posted by Thorfun

  1. Definitely not! Penny pinching extraordinaire.
  2. It’s funny as when I saw the price of £2.25 I thought, f**k that’s expensive. But when I wrote the total of £13.50 I did think “am I just being a real tight arse here?” 😂. I guess the answer is yes then.
  3. Was going to but SWMBO has packed it away to make space for something else.
  4. Sadly our screed level is dictated by our finished floor level so this won’t work.
  5. evening. question for the sparkies out there. we have some conduit boxes in the floor insulation for ground mounted uprights. I need to find some extensions for them to bring them above the level of the screed. then I can put the spotlights in them after the flooring is done. I found these on Screwfix but they're metal. any issue with that? our conduit boxes are plastic angle boxes. I would need at least 3 of these to take it up 75mm. only problem with metal is that it's not as easy to cut level with the screed. I did see these at CEF but at £2.25 each I would need at least 6 (2 x lights and 3 extenders each) and so £13.50 seems a little excessive for what is simply a bit of plastic! which lead to another option where I was thinking of sticking some 50mm waste pipe as a barrier against the screed and that will give me a 50mm hole to put the lights in. and if I find lights that are a smaller diameter then I can put narrower pipe in to reduce the hole size. I hope the above makes sense! I can pop to the house and take photos if not that might explain it better.
  6. I had a quote from Spectrum for Internorm windows. they were on the expensive side and more than another Internorm provider. but, as with most things, you get what you pay for! and a personal recommendation is worth it's weight in gold especially for a big ticket item like windows. sometimes it's better to pay a little more for peace of mind.
  7. Are you with give an indication as to what ‘quite reasonable’ is? I do t remember reading anyone on here using this. Maybe you can be the Buildhub pioneer!
  8. I don't have any in my house....at least that's what I tell myself.
  9. not suspended ceiling like your office type ceiling. it will be a dropped ceiling that will be plasterboarded and skimmed.
  10. awesome. 40mm through the B&B it is then! I can then make the decision as to whether to up that to 50mm at a later date. I was actually thinking of putting more than one hep2o pipe in the larger bore ducting! thanks for the tip on 45° bends but in this instance I'll just send them up vertically from basement to kitchen through the B&B. any bends will then be under the ceiling in the basement. the foam wasn't to reduce the noise of the pipes it was so there wasn't a hole going through from the basement to the kitchen so making noise in the room below/above won't travel through the ducting to the other room.
  11. I was told that running horizontally isn't a bad thing, in fact it can be advantageous. if your board horizontally starting at the bottom you have the bottom board to 'rest' the top board on when you get to it. also when cutting for the bit at the end of a run it's easier to cut a horizontal board as you're only cutting 4' instead of 8'. it made sense to me! but @nod is the plasterboard/plastering guru around here so maybe wait for someone who actually knows what they're talking about to respond! 😉
  12. ok, so I 'think' after re-reading the advice above I've decided to run 40mm through the floor. this will then reduce to 32mm at the sink. and then I can attach the 40mm to 50mm pipe for the run to the soil pipe. so from the sink it'll be 32mm -> 40mm -> 50mm -> 110mm. good, bad or ugly?
  13. just remembered that up above @Nickfromwales said 50mm for anything buried. the kitchen sink waste isn't 'buried' but it'll be a pain at a later date to get to as it'll be above the ceiling in the basement. also, it'll be about an 8m run to the soil pipe from the kitchen sink. worth using 50mm? I'm thinking it might be.
  14. his and hers toilets aside, I have another question....well.....more of a sanity check to be honest. Tomorrow I am putting down the insulation in our kitchen in preparation for the screed. our sink is in an island and so I need to run the waste pipe and water pipe straight down through the block and beam and in to the basement. the island will contain the following: Sink Quooker with Cube Dishwasher so I was going to run a 40mm waste pipe and hot and cold feeds for sink and cold feed for dishwasher (all 15mm Hep2o). Do I need anything else? Also, I was thinking of running a large bore pipe and putting the hot and cold feeds through it. that way I can foam the large bore pipe to reduce sound transfer between the kitchen and basement rather than drilling 3 holes for the water pipes. is that a stupid idea or genius? am I just trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist by running water pipes in their own holes? most important thing is am I missing anything to run now as it'd be a bugger to do it later.
  15. Put your data into the spreadsheet that is available on this forum (a search for ‘heat loss spreadsheet jeremy harris’ should find it) and see what that says.
  16. yes. the SEG80s. https://www.hallmarkblinds.co.uk/assets/trojan80-spec-sheets.pdf thank you. we like it to and it casts lovely shadow patterns as the sun moves round.
  17. Impressive
  18. welcome. looks great! did you do all the sheet piling as well and digging out for the basement?
  19. wondering if it might be a good idea to keep the site toilet going post-completion to cater for this situation?
  20. That’s a good idea. Can get a cheap Erbauer one from Screwfix.
  21. couldn't think of a better birthday present that a day on-site working!
  22. +1. speak to Kore and/or your SE
  23. interesting. i've not got one of those but i can look to purchase one at the time. i was going to break them to smaller pieces in situ and then lift into a dumper to transport to the site of the wall
  24. the TF company 'should' take your architects design and make a TF out of it. they'll be responsible for the load calculations and layout of the panels etc. at least that's how it worked for us.
  25. nope. at least not that i'm aware of! the majority of our lintels are wood (mostly Kerto iirc). it was all designed and calculated by the TF company
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