Thorfun

don't worry, i've decided to go MF. just not grid.

this post is an absolute gem. thank you @MortarThePoint. i've read quite a bit about MF ceiling systems in the past and your post seems to make the most sense to me. i was previously getting very lost with all the GL numbers but your simple 'use this, this and this' description was brilliant. so thanks again. i've looked in to the Gypliner system and watched a few videos and it seems really easy. so, once i've confirmed my posi-joists will take the load i'm going to be looking at using GL1 tracks, GL8 wall channels and GL12s for the brackets with the GL3 connectors. using the GL12s gives us up to 175mm drop potential and after discussions with SWMBO we're thinking to drop the ceiling down to allow us a full sheet of plasterboard on the walls. so that'll be approx 160mm drop and will give us 2.4m ceiling heights. does anyone know if screwing the GL8 wall channels in to 25mm battens will be strong enough btw? or should i be looking at going through the 105mm make-up of the external walls and in to the TF? i have 180mm screws left over from attaching the PIR. and any comments/concerns about this solution? and sorry @pocster to not use your suggested grid system. 😉

thanks. it's hard to know what a 9l/min shower head is like as i've not had one before! the wife is doing the research on the bathrooms as i've got my hands full researching a load of other subjects.

this is of particular concern as I'm currently trying to find out about whether the Gypliner system is suitable for attaching to posi-joists. BG told me to talk to my posi manufacturer. Posis were designed by Wolf but they don't have load calculations, those would be with my TF company who have since gone bust. so it's looking most likely that I need a lightweight solution any way

looks like an office block? 😉

my concern with a ledger plate is there are 2 x external walls in that room which have 80mm PIR and 25mm battens inside the TF. so the fixings for the ledger board will need to be extremely long to give the required depth into the TF. also the TF is only 140mm deep so that would limit the depth i could fix to and would worry about the depth of fixing to hold the ceiling.

How would be the best way to timber stud a 150mm drop though? What timber would you use?

All our GF rooms have 2.6m ceilings with posi joists at 300mm centres with about 150mm gap between them. In our TV room I want to drop the ceiling by about 150mm to allow space for ceiling speakers and to add extra insulation to reduce noise to the bedroom above and to also make the room feel more ‘snug’. I also need to fit Led strip around the ceiling and so was thinking of double boarding and leave a gap for a channel around the out of the second layer of plasterboard. Hope that all makes sense. I’m after opinions on how you would do the drop ceiling and, if possible, why you’d do it that way detailing the thinking and reasons behind that decision.

Can’t wait!

Yeah, no sewage here. STP all the way. I’ll just check the water bill for the existing property

The cost of water is a good point and I’ll need to calculate our water costs per litre.

But it doesn’t look like it’s changeable so once bought it is what it is, and at £350 that’s an expensive mistake!

Ok so with our toilets and washing machine using harvested water I can easily argue that even with the higher flow rate head we’ll be below that threshold.

afternoon. the wife is shopping for shower heads and found a drenching head that says it offers two flow rates with 17l/m standard and a 9l/m eco mode. what's the thinking behind this? is it to satisfy building regulations? https://www.ukbathrooms.com/products/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-240-2jet-overhead-shower-with-ceiling-connector.html from the looks of it it's also a permanent solution rather than a switch between the 2 modes!

wow! sour grapes and then some. like @JohnMo said, just ignore. if they want to report you and take legal action then simply sue the pants off them for stress. i'm sure they can afford it with their 250 frames per month working on million pound houses.

Sorry to be pedantic but that’s not true. With a fibre-free rigid thermoset phenolic core, and a thermal conductivity of 0.019 - 0.022 W/mK, Taken from https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/business-groups/kingspan-insulation/kooltherm/ so it can be better than standard PIR but definitely not twice as good!!

Well, I actually already have one although not as grand as your design it is a little balcony overlooking a wild flower green roof. 😊

It’s what I’d do if it was my house! 😂

maybe but seems to have a rather large shadow for a flush fit Velux! gives the impression of an awesome sticky-out window seat type thing but I forgot that's the sloping roof

+1

what's the sticky out bit on the second floor? I can't seem to correlate that to the plans! I'd be making a lovely massive roof terrace out the back on the flat roof. or at least a walkable on green roof. 🙂

the money you'd save doing the first fix would pay to put him up for long enough to do the rest of the work! 😉

we have the CVU25Q + ISU1093 https://weshare.velux.com/A/We Share/243494?encoding=UTF-8&key=888d31a936806774ffb4b0e932799a21dde65c90&_ga=2.5929083.953101229.1684333554-530800935.1684333525 according to the above datasheet that's 42dB insulation.

is this still the case with their triple glazed roof lights? we have one in our utility room but i've not stood under it to listen for rain noise. and, tbh, with the garage being open and next to it with no door between at the moment all i would be able to hear would be the rain from outside through the garage!

our electrician is a friend and he agreed that we do the labour of running the cables and he'd come and connect it all up and sign it off. sadly we needed to catch up some time so we paid him to do first fix as well but it would've been a substantial saving if we had the time to do it ourselves. maybe you can find a sparky who is amenable to something like that.