Thorfun

Already made the decision to go with the faster flow rate before peer pressure kicked in!

I do my best thinking in the shower so I'll probably end up saving money by solving problems whilst showering. it's man maths, init.

We checked our water bill and we pay 0.17p/l, so approximately 29p for a 10 minute shower at 17l/min or 15p at 9l/min.

Ahh….right. In that case the battened walls are external so not relevant. So I can GL12 close to the external wall and use 600mm centres for them and should be rock solid?

If I knew what you were talking about I might be able to! 😂 Yeah. It’s a bit of a worry but I can reduce the GL12 spacing drastically to assist with the load.

not sure yet! but it's moot as there's a 50mm gap between vertical battens at 450mm above FFL (you can see that in the photos) so even if the bottom batten does rest on the screen to higher of the two vertical battens still aren't resting on anything. i can screw the GL8 through the battens and all the way to the TF. if i use 180mm screws that's a 75mm bearing in the TF plus it's going through 25mm battens. pretty sure that should hold it all!

nope as i've got a gap at 450mm high from the bottom batten for the ring main

battens are vertical (standard service cavity battens) and they're held in place by screwing through them and the PIR in to the TF beyond using 150mm screws.

don't worry, i've decided to go MF. just not grid.

this post is an absolute gem. thank you @MortarThePoint. i've read quite a bit about MF ceiling systems in the past and your post seems to make the most sense to me. i was previously getting very lost with all the GL numbers but your simple 'use this, this and this' description was brilliant. so thanks again. i've looked in to the Gypliner system and watched a few videos and it seems really easy. so, once i've confirmed my posi-joists will take the load i'm going to be looking at using GL1 tracks, GL8 wall channels and GL12s for the brackets with the GL3 connectors. using the GL12s gives us up to 175mm drop potential and after discussions with SWMBO we're thinking to drop the ceiling down to allow us a full sheet of plasterboard on the walls. so that'll be approx 160mm drop and will give us 2.4m ceiling heights. does anyone know if screwing the GL8 wall channels in to 25mm battens will be strong enough btw? or should i be looking at going through the 105mm make-up of the external walls and in to the TF? i have 180mm screws left over from attaching the PIR. and any comments/concerns about this solution? and sorry @pocster to not use your suggested grid system. 😉

thanks. it's hard to know what a 9l/min shower head is like as i've not had one before! the wife is doing the research on the bathrooms as i've got my hands full researching a load of other subjects.

this is of particular concern as I'm currently trying to find out about whether the Gypliner system is suitable for attaching to posi-joists. BG told me to talk to my posi manufacturer. Posis were designed by Wolf but they don't have load calculations, those would be with my TF company who have since gone bust. so it's looking most likely that I need a lightweight solution any way

looks like an office block? 😉

my concern with a ledger plate is there are 2 x external walls in that room which have 80mm PIR and 25mm battens inside the TF. so the fixings for the ledger board will need to be extremely long to give the required depth into the TF. also the TF is only 140mm deep so that would limit the depth i could fix to and would worry about the depth of fixing to hold the ceiling.

How would be the best way to timber stud a 150mm drop though? What timber would you use?

All our GF rooms have 2.6m ceilings with posi joists at 300mm centres with about 150mm gap between them. In our TV room I want to drop the ceiling by about 150mm to allow space for ceiling speakers and to add extra insulation to reduce noise to the bedroom above and to also make the room feel more ‘snug’. I also need to fit Led strip around the ceiling and so was thinking of double boarding and leave a gap for a channel around the out of the second layer of plasterboard. Hope that all makes sense. I’m after opinions on how you would do the drop ceiling and, if possible, why you’d do it that way detailing the thinking and reasons behind that decision.

Can’t wait!

Yeah, no sewage here. STP all the way. I’ll just check the water bill for the existing property

The cost of water is a good point and I’ll need to calculate our water costs per litre.

But it doesn’t look like it’s changeable so once bought it is what it is, and at £350 that’s an expensive mistake!

Ok so with our toilets and washing machine using harvested water I can easily argue that even with the higher flow rate head we’ll be below that threshold.

afternoon. the wife is shopping for shower heads and found a drenching head that says it offers two flow rates with 17l/m standard and a 9l/m eco mode. what's the thinking behind this? is it to satisfy building regulations? https://www.ukbathrooms.com/products/hansgrohe-raindance-select-s-240-2jet-overhead-shower-with-ceiling-connector.html from the looks of it it's also a permanent solution rather than a switch between the 2 modes!

wow! sour grapes and then some. like @JohnMo said, just ignore. if they want to report you and take legal action then simply sue the pants off them for stress. i'm sure they can afford it with their 250 frames per month working on million pound houses.

Sorry to be pedantic but that’s not true. With a fibre-free rigid thermoset phenolic core, and a thermal conductivity of 0.019 - 0.022 W/mK, Taken from https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/business-groups/kingspan-insulation/kooltherm/ so it can be better than standard PIR but definitely not twice as good!!

Well, I actually already have one although not as grand as your design it is a little balcony overlooking a wild flower green roof. 😊