Thorfun

I've taken 2 weeks off work to do as much boarding as I can. 2 1/2 days in and I haven't touched a piece of plasterboard. didn't realise all the prep work of dropping ceilings/battening/noggins etc would take so bloody long! at this rate I'll be lucky to have done any boarding before I'm back to work. 😞 fair point well made.

Ok, so rather than sheet up to the edge of a door or window you cut out of a full sheet creating L-shaped or U-shaped pieces. Doesn’t that leave a lot of waste?

sorry to resurrect this thread but as I'm starting plaster boarding I am wondering what you mean by 'cut out around the windows'? can you please elaborate?

I have new Dewalt heads. Will see if I can get some Gyproc screws local tomorrow morning. Although I guess I can make a start on a different room and wait for mail order delivery.

first bathroom shower and basin waste in and tested with no leaks. fall of 22mm/m in the end which is within the max/min @Nickfromwales mentioned above. very happy with it all. got some drop ceilings and plaster boarding to do this week then I'm back on the plumbing at the weekend.

I bought these from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-pz-wafer-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-1-2-100-pack/8979h and they do the job but they're quite hard to get to screw in! I need to apply quite a bit of pressure which is tricky when you're up a ladder trying to hold a GL1 channel and the GL12 bracket and a screw and the drill! would the 'official' Gyproc screws be any easier? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/gypframe-wafer-head-drywall-screw-fixings-13mm-l-chrome-PRTBG692# or would they be exactly the same as the Easydrive ones from SF?

Sounds like great advice! I presume you speak from experience.

Thanks. Did that and found these on Screwfix which I’ve ordered. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-pz-wafer-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-3-4-100-pack/6553h seem the same thing as the Gyproc ones.

Fall is approximately 20mm/m. Is that about right? Is there a perfect fall? And while I’m asking, what’s the maximum and minimum?

Please forgive this potentially noddy question but do I need a specific type of screw to attach the GL8 to the timber frame? Or do I pilot hole the track and then just use standard timber screws?

ok. will just do it. 🙂 is that other lot of waste pipe good to weld in place? I'm happy with it but as it's my first I thought it'd be prudent to ask people who actually know what they're doing!

with a little help from his friend. 😉 IMG_0405.mov

I don't remember. a lot though! if I ever remember or find the information somewhere I will let you know.

same run but with the basin waste added as I'd forgotten to do that!

dry fitted a shower run. anyone spot any issues (apart from the obvious lack of clips which I will sort out) before I weld it all together?

@Nickfromwales. qq. i have one shower waste that runs in a straight line to the soil stack that is 800mm away. do I really need to upsize that waste pipe to 50mm just for that short distance? seems a bit crazy and introducing extra joins for the reducers at each end for such a short run.

+1. is it gold plated pipes I wonder?

You might change your mind when you see the price of it!!

quote seem reasonable. I'd suggest getting the supply to a kiosk at the site edge for you and attached to neighbour's wall to get rid of both those overhead cables. you can then run from the kiosk underground in to the house as you've suggested you'd prefer. as to the 3-phase/single phase question I'd suggest that's a matter of preference. if it wasn't for the neighbours overhead cable I'd say 3phase is a no-brainer but I would really want that neighbour's overhead out of the way and so it looks like single phase for both properties and chance your luck with a G99 application. so option 5. for £800 to get rid of that cable? I wouldn't even hesitate!

actually, it had nothing to do with any existing contamination but he was worried about the ditch overflowing and potentially contaminating the water supply. i thought it was bollocks but if i wanted my water supply fitted then i had to comply. luckily it was at the beginning of the build so i actually had money. 🤣

here are some of ours. pretty neat and wasn't too much of a pain getting the clips screwed in. I also attached directly to the top and bottom chords. harder to screw in but I bought one of these which was a massive help! https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-extreme-1-4-hex-impact-right-angle-attachment-160mm/354px

our posis are 45mm thick so on clips direct attached to them in either B or D would make them in the 'safe' zone, i.e. 50mm above/below

I put mine wherever I could fit them while trying to keep it neat. some I’ve also just cable tied to the metal webs. I didn’t add extra supports like you’ve shown though. I just screwed the clips directly to the posi-joists. I have pictures if that will help let me know. Once you get going though things just seem to work out.

Our water company said we had to use barrier pipe due to risk of contamination as the pipe runs near a culvert. That’s about 10x the price of standard MDPE. Had to pay around £500 for 50m of 32mm. 😭

after doing all the insulating and airtightness regime for our timber frame I can tell you that, even though we saved money, the time it all takes to do well is a lot! so for me it's well worth sticking with the MBC passive house cellulose filled twin-wall system. if your budget will stretch that is. it's not a regret for me as we'll have an amazing house but I do think sometimes that if we didn't build the basement we'd have been able to afford the MBC twin-wall system and would've finished and be in by now! but, on the flip side, I know for a fact that every nook and cranny is filled with insulation with no corners cut.